Roof of the World

Tachi Dele from Tibet!

We were wrong about not finding any internet cafes here, but then I for one (joe) under estimated how far chinas development would have spread in this remote region.

We started our tour bright and early in Kathmandu, meeting up with the other 27 members of the tour in our own bus. We then had a 5 or so hour journey to the border. On the way we had been briefed by our guide about possesions we should expect to be confiscated at Chinese customs. Joe was asked not to even attempt to take his copy of the Dalai Lama's autobiography through... fair enough! He tried to power read it in the five hours but only got half way, (so there's a Christmas present suggestion Mum/Joy!) We had not expected this, but apparently books were mostly what we should expect to have confiscated. Especially anything including pictures of monks, and maps which included Tai wan. Once we got to customs we both slipped through with our China Lonely Planet, however others in the groups got the same book confiscated. This was our first experience of the Chinese police which seem to have a fearful presence wherever they are - although we're sure they are doing a grand, fair and helpful job!

Thanks to our efficient, and quick, driver Samjo - we passed through an army check point with no problems. Three cars behind us (whose drivers had stopped to do some shopping) were not so lucky. Without so much as an explanation they were held up on the road for 5 hours - until 1:30am! The road was closed for works and they just got unlucky but still, not the best start to the tour for some.

The next day was the first of our Jeep rides through the strangly beautiful landscape of Tibet. We were to travel from the border to Shigaste, almost half of the total distance to the capital Lhasa. The scenary of Tibet is like nothing we have seen before, anywhere... except maybe on film sets of Star Wars or other such barren landscapes! The geology is incredible and at the highest points there were practically sand dunes! We drove over two high passes this day, both 5000m plus, and we felt the altitude sickness kicking in. That said, we coped a lot better than other members of the group who were throwing up and almost loosing consciousness. However, our bodies have adapted well and we are feeling fine (so are the others). We found that it affects us in waves, we will feel fine, then bend down to tie a shoe lace and feel dizzy. At first walking a few yards would have us out of breath, but now we are climbing forts and alot of monastery steps with no problem.

We arrived in Shigaste in the early evening having had a smooth journey over the well paved 'friendship highway' - (sam, your MX5 would have loved it, hair pin heaven! Samjo found every apex!). We have been eating well and have managed to so far find Tibetan and vegetarian food which is good. Joe has tried Yak but he stopped short of the tongue.

The tour includes sight seeing at monasteries and thus far we have seen 2. Yesterday we were fortunate enough to be visiting the monastery during one of the most prestigious days in the Buddhist calenda, the day it is said the Buddah decends from heaven having visited his mum. As a consequence the town was brimming full of local Tibetans, some whom had travelled for miles to Shigaste, and we were positively swept through the moastery by hoards of excitable and devout locals, with an elderly Tibetan clinging on for dear life! An experience that we won't forget :)

This monastery, the permenant home of the Penchan Lama (like the Dalai Lamas no. 2), had a lovely walk around the perimeter wall which we took. Each step included a holy prayer wheel which the locals spun, every single one of the hundreds that were there! That's devotion for you :) After our walk we cut through the town, everywhere Tibetans were having picnics celebrating their pilgrimages. The drinks were flowing and bord games were in full swing.

Unfortunately we can't add pictures to this blog as some nasty virus we've picked up from India or Nepal is stopping the computer from seeing them. They still work in the camers and we got around it in Kathmandu so all is not lost. We'll add some to this entry when they're back up and running.

Oh, and it's freezing here!! Around the -4 mark at night and the buildings don't have heating, not to mention that our hotel tonight doesn't have hot water :( It's ok in the sun shine during the day but the air is always cold, we're looking forward to the balmy temperatures of China proper (Hong Kong 25 degrees!).

Kale shoo for now,

Jenni and Joe

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Part of trip: Tibet

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