A vast, warm, mud-brown river, slow-flowing and viscous, shining in the sun. Towns line the banks with houses on stilts overlooking the water. We cruise along the waterways aboard a bright blue narrowboat, past sand-laden sampans whose crew wave as we pass. It’s humid, the temperature around 30°C, and the languid heat of the delta is slowing the day to a crawl, like drowning in treacle. We visit a village and Mr Fu, the perpetually twinkling guide, leaps ashore and takes the lead. Adorable kids giggle and peep at us from behind their hands. We are shown around several cottage industries
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