Dog Sausage Anyone?

After our adventures in Laos we headed back to Thailand, this time to see a bit of the north. We ended up spending over a week in Chang Mai, resting and recuperating from all the buses we had been taking. It was quite nice to stay still for a little while and we had several trips to the cinema (twice to see the new Harry Potter movie!) as well as some relaxing walks around the moat. We also made a visit to Chang Mai zoo where we got rather close to some hippos who didn't seem so happy to see us. Grumpy things! We witnessed a man and his child feeding them too, which I'm not sure was a good idea!

Eventually we decided we had better move on as we needed to get to Bangkok in time for our next flight. We took the less than comfortable 12 hour night bus all the way there to get it over and done with. Arriving a little after 6am we were dropped off directly outside a book shop. The final Harry Potter book had been on sale for 10 minutes and excitedly I waded straight in wearing my backpack, crashing in to things and bought a copy, exchanging slightly deranged, manic smiles with the child next to me!

As the time came for us to be leaving Thailand for the third and final time of this trip, we started to reflect on our thoughts on the country. We both agree that the islands really are beautiful and definitely worth seeing. They are like paradise but in comparison, the mainland doesn't seem to have a lot going for it. The towns all look the same, there is nothing special or defining about them, and it all seems dull in comparison to it's neighbouring countries. There is no place on the mainland that we have really got excited about, maybe we are missing something because so many people seem to love it. When the time came to leave, I didn't feel sad to go. Ready for change we headed to Hanoi.

In Vietnam they will sell you anything. It soon became apparent to me that they would happily sell their grandmother if it gave them enough money for a few beers of an evening. Flying into Hanoi we soon encountered the touts when our airport bus deliberately dropped us off at completely the wrong hotel and in the hands of another hotel proprietor trying to tell us not to worry but to take a look at her hotel while we were here. This pretty much set the pattern for Vietnam which is sadly one of the worst place we have been for rip off merchants. Traveling around it is common practice to be overcharged for more or less anything and for touts to latch onto you like leeches to claim a little beer money from your hotel. Basically we found ourselves having to negotiate simply to minimise the amount we were overcharged. These dispersions aside Vietnam is a fascinating country to travel in. The scenery is universally beautiful and the historic streets of Hanoi were especially nice to explore.

Basing ourselves in the old quarter of Hanoi we enjoyed walking through the hectic streets and escaping outside it to the wide, tree lined roads for a more relaxed wander past various embassies and Ho Chi Min's mausoleum. We also popped into a temple and generally soaked up the atmosphere of Vietnam's capital. At times it is dizzying and overwhelming but a few minutes later the leafy, shaded areas provide sanctuary and stark contrast. It feels like a place with real energy which it's easy to become part of. Some of the restaurant menu's have been interesting with some extremely carnivorous options including camel and sparrow. They will eat anything at least once here! Although generally not seen on the menu I have seen many signs advertising Dog meat which I am reluctant to try.

Then we Moved on to Halong City overlooking the famous Halong Bay, with it's thousands of limestone karsts emerging from the water it certainly made for a nice backdrop. We decided not to venture out on a boat trip as it seemed very similar to what we had seen in southern Thailand so instead moved on the following day to start our journey down the coast and ultimately to Saigon something like 1500km away.

From Halong we overnighted in Haiphong. Walking around the slightly shady dark streets we somehow managed to turn down an alley and wander right through the middle of a family occasion that looked like a wake-doh! Moving swiftly on with a kind of respectful head bow we returned back to our hotel after a meal in a raucous little Thai restaurant.

The following morning we embarked on yet another bus journey for a stop in Nimh Binh, which incidentally, like most things here, is pronounced in some mind boggling way and nothing like it looks. Nimh Binh was supposed to be more of a town in the countryside. That maybe true when you get out of the centre but in the town itself it is still manically busy and we were quick to take a pleasant stroll out into the surrounding countryside. On the whole it wasn't quite as nice as we'd hoped and so we boarded the night bus for a mammoth journey to Hue. Here the weather was pleasant and we spent an afternoon exploring the imperial enclosure, a Chinese style citadel where royalty used to keep court. It is in a state of disrepair but still interesting enough to leave us feeling we'd had an insight into historical Vietnam. Upon returning to the room Sam took a well earned nap and I decided to devilishly crack open a beer!

For a bit of a change we decided to take the train down to Danang on route to Hoi An. The journey was made by the amazing scenery but unfortunately most of the passengers decided to pull down their window shades and take a nap. Not to be deterred I moved out to the carriage entrance, adopted a kind of awkward crouching position and peered out through the barred windows where I managed to take some nice pictures whilst engaging in idle chat with a nice Vietnamese chap. Fearing that no day would be complete without a bus journey of some kind we arrived in Danang and jumped straight on a mini bus to Hoi An.

Hoi An was a pleasant change for us. A pretty little town where you can walk around with relatively little hassle and without the constant threat of being mowed down by a crazy driver we had a fun time exploring our surroundings. It was here we discovered the magic of fresh beer! Brewed locally and at around 10p a glass we wondered why we had ever bothered with anything else. Cold, smooth and delicious it was the perfect drink to cool down after a walk in the heat! Lovely!

Whilst having a late breakfast along the riverside one day we watched in amazement as a little old lady emerged from a nearby building carrying a cage on a piece of rope. The cage contained a mouse which she had obviously caught and we looked on as she took it to the river, lowered the cage in and waited until the poor thing had drowned. She then opened the cage and tipped the now very dead mouse in to the water. Not exactly great viewing for breakfast and it seemed like a poor way to treat the water. Obviously not that bothered about disease!

Our next destination was Nha Trang, a popular beach spot. We had planned on going to Quy Nhon but due to a lack of buses and a tight schedule we had to give it a miss. Nha Trang was quite interesting though. It rained fairly frequently so we didn't manage to do our beach bum routine which we have had so much practice at, but we did have a good long walk along it. We walked up to the area where the fishermen live, some of the poorest people we have seen. The crumbling wooden shacks where they live really make you stop and think how lucky we are. No, we can't afford everything we want, but these people are crammed in to the tiniest living spaces. Whole families sleeping on the floor of one room. Children going to toilet on the piles of litter outside while fat happy rats run around enjoying their paradise. It's like walking in to another world so far removed from everything we know.

Later that day we stopped off in the local supermarket to get some water. Whilst standing by the fridge I heard a distinct cat's meowing. Confused at where it could be coming from I looked over to the fresh meat counter and saw behind it a big freezer with a load of Vietnamese writing on it including the word "cat." In a panic that the cat might be slowly freezing to death I called Jed over to come and investigate the matter. He discovered the cat chained up behind the counter, I can only imagine he was part of the selection of fresh meat. The urge to free the poor little cat was overwhelming but I knew I couldn't. I guess they just have a whole different way of thinking about meat but I wish we didn't have to see it!

So, next on the agenda was Dalat. Stepping off the bus we were shocked to find we had goose pimples!! WOW!! We went off to find a hotel and found a nice chatty man at the reception of one who told us he would phone his boss to see if they had any rooms available. Ten minutes later the boss arrived and told us she had a room for us at their other hotel down the road. It was starting to rain as we went outside and she told us that two boys would take us on motorbikes. Now it may be hard for you to believe this but we have managed to go through the whole of south-east Asia without getting on a motorbike. We have walked miles before instead of getting one. The fact that they seem to drive like maniacs and you don't get a helmet has always put me off somewhat. But I figured there's got to be a first time for everything so this was it. Why I waited for the first time to be in the pouring rain I don't know, I guess it adds to the excitement! Anyway, it was brilliant! I loved every minute of it and it was so much fun! I can't believe we have been avoiding them all this time! I definitely need to get one!!

It was quite ironic that the following evening we witnessed a man riding home in the rain, rushing a bit too much. He skidded and the bike flipped over, the seat flew off and he was flung from the bike. Seconds later we heard a baby scream from under him. Luckily they both seemed OK, just a bit shocked but with no helmets it could have been much worse. I'm glad we saw that after our ride instead of before!

It was so cold and rainy during our time in Dalat that we were going out dressed in trousers, long sleeves, coats and SOCKS!! It was quite a novelty for us and the place had a very European feel to it which we enjoyed. Although we have managed to pick up a lovely tummy bug (which Jed gave to me!) somewhere along our journey, we tried to have a little explore around town when we weren't chained to the bathroom. We watched the locals fishing in the river with baskets and nets. They really are quite good at it and it was interesting to watch.

We also visited the famous crazy house, which is indeed crazy. It had a very Lemony Snickets feel to it and I loved the winding staircases and the little nooks and crannies which would make great dens! Everyone in Dalat was very friendly to us and it was a really nice place to be. Our hotel was fantastic and cheap and the owner booked us on a very posh bus to Saigon for the usual cheapy price! I'm not sure how long I could handle that cold weather for though!!

If possible Saigon has even more motorbikes than Hanoi. It really has to be seen to be believed. The city is bustling and full of energy more or less 24 hours a day. It has a modern edge to it and if anything feels more like a capital than Hanoi. So we head to Hong Kong in the morning and we're still brimming with enthusiasm for our future travels.

Sam and Jed x

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Part of trip: Asia

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