Hoi An

---

Hoi An, 19th - 23rd May 2010

Our sleeper bus for that evening was different to the others we’d experienced with more of a chaise lounge type of seat so we thought we were in for a good night’s sleep as we settled down. But no, being at the back of the bus was much bumpier and the seats weren’t long enough to lie down so it was hard to get comfy. However, we survived the night and at 10 am we arrived into Hue where we thought/had been told that some passengers would get off and we would carry on with the remaining 4 hours to Hoi An. But no, yet again we were wrong! We had a 3 hours wait for the next bus. We were not happy to say the least, but with nothing we could do we used the internet at the hotel we’d been dropped at to update the blog and research a reputable tailor in Hoi An. With the ongoing problems (RED Shirt protesters) in Bangkok we had decided not to spend as much time there so I needed to get my suit made elsewhere. Hoi An is a massive tailoring town with probably over 100 tailors, so we decided that if not Bangkok then Hoi An was the place and with a bit of a search on the internet one tailor’s, Yaly Couture came out on top with many positive independent reviews, so that was to be the one. Just after 1 pm our bus turned up and we were able to complete the remainder of our journey.

We arrived into Hoi An on the central east coast of Vietnam a little after 5 pm and were dropped off directly outside a hostel which was perfect as with much of the last 24 hours spent on a bus or waiting for one we were ready to dump our bags and shower. The hostel fitted the bill and soon we were both clean and refreshed. We decided we wanted to take a wander into Hoi An to get our bearings of our new surroundings and to locate Yaly Couture where I was planning to have my suit made.

Hoi An is a very picturesque town and much like Luan Prabang in Laos it had a French influence, with shuttered houses and shops and cobbled streets. With a bit of map rotation and a couple of walks up and down the same street we eventually found Yaly. I showed them a few designs that I had seen in shops and on the internet to which they said they could match no problems and within 10 minutes I was being measured and choosing fabrics, with not just a couple of fabrics to choose from, they had literally hundreds. It helped that I wanted a 100% wool suit as at least that meant it narrowed it down to about 100 different colours and shades etc. After lots of umming and ahhing and with the aid of Bowks and the design assistant Kate I finally decided upon my fabrics for the suit and shirt along with my personalised embroidered label for the jacket. Having been pampered for 2 hours in the shop we left with an appointment for the next day for a fitting as the initial stages of suit making would be done over night. (A little like the elves and the shoemaker except with suits instead!) We strolled along the lantern lit streets making our way back to our hostel and then climbed into bed to which we were both glad that it was a comfy bed and not on a bus.

A good night’s sleep was had and we awoke early to go and check the local breakfast offerings and with the hostel next door offering cheaper prices on its breakfast menu we decided we would eat there. The breakfast prices weren’t the only thing cheaper, after enquiring about the room prices we found we could stay for $2 a night cheaper. I know it is not much but it is on a traveller’s budget, so once we’d polished off our brekkie we popped next door checked out and checked in to its neighbour.

We then planned our day’s events to which Bowks decided that with all the array of tailors that she would like to have a dress tailored made too and so having researched a few designs on the internet we set off for more of a wander in town with the hope of finding a tailor that some friends we’d met in Halong Bay had recommended and was a bit cheaper than Yaly. The street of Hoi An were quite literally lined with tailors, shoemakers and bag makers and we wandered through the little streets admiring the architecture and style of buildings before finally reaching the river where we decided to get lunch at one of the river side restaurants. We ate a traditional Vietnamese dish which was your choice of meat with lemon grass and chilli served with rice. It was delicious!

Walking feet back in action we crossed back over the river and walked through a local market, although we seemed to visit many local markets we find them a great place to see local people going about their everyday lives. I also happen to like a good market if only purely for pleasure. Having bartered on a couple of items and survived the market onslaught of “hello sirrrr, I give you best price” etc. We surfaced out the other side. We located the dress shop where again after a show of design ideas Bowks now stood being measured for a summer dress and an evening dress, whilst I who was now feeling quietly confident on my understanding of fabrics was looking for a suitable material for having a casual shirt made and at $10 you can’t really go wrong! We left one tailor’s only to have to walk back into another as I had a 4 pm fitting of my suit at Yaly which went great. There were a few alterations to be made but otherwise the suit fitted a dream, almost like it had been tailored made. He He!

Back at the hostel we freshened up and relaxed for an hour or two, then with food on our minds we decided to go and eat at a little night food market we had seen whilst on the other side of the river. The food was delicious with Bowks opting for wontons which she enjoyed so much she stated that she would very much like to come back tomorrow evening and have the same. With a busy day had we felt ready for bed so sauntered back to the hostel, where on route we bumped into another couple of friends we had met on the Halong Bay tour (it’s funny how we keep bumping into the same people along our travels). So we organised to try and meet them for a drink in the next day or so. Finally we arrived back at the hostel where we were able to lay our weary heads for the night.

Saturday 22nd May we decided would be a beach day and as Hoi An beach was about 5km away we thought we would put my trusty moped skills to the test once more and hire a moped to take us there. We managed to find one for hire down one of the back streets at half the cost of one on the main streets which was good. What was quite funny was that she didn’t ask for our passports or any kind of deposit so with her not even knowing our names we could have quite easily never returned with the moped! Anyway, off we set to the beach filling the tank half full then orienteering our way through the town and on towards the beach getting thoroughly involved in the Vietnamese way of driving, beeping the horn every 2 seconds. We arrived at the beach and located a safe bike parking area where many of the locals parked then went to find a shady spot under a palm tree.

With another blisteringly hot day we were keen to get in for a swim so with our spot secured under the palm tree we went and cooled off in the sea sprinting across the sand as it was so hot. After a bit of a swim and a sun bathe we noticed that there were a couple of jet skis near the shore line and were keen to give it a go, so after a price enquiry we were soon both pulling on our life jackets and signing disclaimer which spells danger to me! All I had to do was transfer my moped skills to water, oh except here there is no other traffic, brilliant, then let’s have some fun! And what a great 15 minutes of fun it was, zipping across the waves with Bowks hanging on for dear life. Though should have known that we would soon swop places and she would become the driver and sure enough minutes later the tables had turned and this time it was my turn to hang on for dear life as Bowks enjoyed her 10 minutes of driving fun. Far too soon we were heading back into shore as our time was up, but with me left thinking that I want a jet ski!

With all the activity we had worked up an appetite so went and enjoyed some lunch at one of the beach side restaurants. Then we returned to pick up the moped which you’ll be happy to know didn’t have any fuel siphoned from it this time as happened in Laos. We had a little more of a ride about on the moped before having to make our way back to town for more suit and dress fittings. First stopping off at the dress tailors for Bowks to try on her dresses (which she looked great in) and organise my adjustments, then onwards once more to Yaly where my tailor made suit complete with personalised embroidered labels was awaiting. The relevant alterations had been made and it felt simply fantastic on. One happy Doddy! Yaly’s although not the cheapest tailor in Hoi An has a reputation of high quality fabrics and attention to detail. I had been willing to pay a little extra and it was worth it, plus there would be very little chance I would be able to afford having the same suit tailor made in the UK.

That evening we fulfilled Bowks’s wishes and made our way back to the night food market where we had eaten the previous night so she could again enjoy her wontons and I must admit my food was particularly tasty too. We then made our way back along the lantern lit water front and bridge making our way back into town. We stopped off on the way back to Skype home and friends before heading back to the hostel and calling it a day.

Our final day in Hoi An was to be one of pottering and sorting. We had booked what was to be our last night bus to Nha Trang leaving at 5.30 pm. Having packed, checked out and bags in storage we headed into town to pick up Bowks’s dresses and my shirt and then we had a little more of a look at the old quarter of Hoi An. Soon enough it was time to head back to the hostel and await our sleeper bus. We passed a bit of time catching up on blog and then at 5.30 pm we climbed onto our bus to Nha Trang.

---