LZ - Hanoi

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It's all coming back to me now....

Maybe it's the constant horn honking, maybe the lawlessness they exhibit behind the wheel or handlebars of their motorbikes, perhaps it was the feeling of being marked in the crosshairs of street vendors as their next meal ticket that has made me realize where I am today.

Hanoi - April 5th, 2005

Landing in the belly of the red dragon (as I will refer to Hanoi, the capital city of Vietnam) from now on, was as smooth as can be. After a rather comfortable 17 hour flight from LAX to Hong Kong, playing video chess and watching some of the latest movies, I had another 1 hour flight into the dragon's belly before the start to my latest adventure. The taxi ride from the airport was about 40 minutes and took me through a variety of life. From the decrepit wooden shacks to the occasional tasteless skyrise building, this was as diverse a location as I've ever seen. I was looking for remnants of the French architecture left over from their occupation in the early 1940's, but I guess I hadn't hit that part of the city just yet. Yes, Hanoi was once referred to as the Paris of Asia when the French colonialists implied their method of imperialism around the globe. Unfortunately, I had some thoughts while driving through some of the poorer places and had to ask myself why in the world did so many foreigners sacrifice their lives for this place. Maybe it was for the beer or the pho? Anyway, I've yet to venture from the area around my hotel in the Old Quarter, but that will change once I click send and finish the first Vietnamese beer that has touched my lips in over a year. Oh, how we've missed each other...ok, maybe it's just a one sided affair. Unfortunately, finding my love, Bia Saigon, will be close to impossible up in these parts. For the northerners are famous for their draft beer sold out of square looking keg-o-raters in street stalls. It's potency makes up for it's lack of taste and appropriate beer temperature.
Enough about beer...lets talk turkey about my plans here. I know some of you are wondering what I'm doing here as I originally intended on going straight to Thailand to help with the tsunami recovery. However, I had to check out some areas that I missed out on last year and thought, if I'm going to go all the way over here, I might as well. I also wanted to brush up on my Vietnamese. So here I am hoping the weather will clear up, as it is currently cloudy and drizzling. My first rainy day experience in Vietnam, and probably not my last, as it is, afterall, April. I know I left San Diego just as it was getting back to it's normal beautiful and sunny state, but I'm sure once I get to Thailand, this rain issue will no longer exist. That brings me back to my plans...from here I will travel to a place called Halong Bay and then take a train to central Vietnam, a place I visited last year. After spending some time in Hue, Danang and Hoi An, I will fly to Saigon, find my lost love (Bia Saigon) and compare the pho bo to that of Hanoi's pho bo. From there it's on to Cambodia "about 75 clicks up the Mekong River...that's Cambodia Captain" where I will hunt down Col. Kurtz and then visit Angkor Wat. Then, after a few temultuous bus rides, I'll be on Khao San road in the heart of Bangkok. It will be from here that I will begin my search and rescue mission to the island of Phi Phi. Upon arrival, I will take up work with the volunteer organizations there and begin the rebuilding of this small island community. I will also deliver the generous donation that was given to me to a family or the appropriate organization there. Following this, my plan will be to return to Bangkok to seek out my cousin and upgrade his exporting business to include contraband. It's just more lucrative.

So, I've finished my beer and need to see the rest of this city. Xin chao!

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Photos

Càu Thê Húc - The Huc Bridge
Leading to the Ngoc Son Temple on Hoan Kiem Lake, you cannot miss this brightly painted bridge if you tried. It was the first peaceful place I found in Hanoi. After a full day of walking around in circles amongst the maze of streets within the Old Quarter, it was a welcomed site to see.

Hoan Kiem Lake - Lake of the Restored Sword
Hoan Kiem Lake, a peaceful oasis in the center of a rather choatic city filled with traffic, honking motorbikes, and aggressive vendors.

Thap Rua - Turtle Pagoda
Within the Hoan Kiem Lake is a small island, said to be a shrine in honor of the turtle and the sword. Follow this link to read the mythology of the Lake of the Restored Sword...it's good, I promise. http://www.vnstyle.vdc.com.vn/mycollection/myths_legends/the-lake-of-the-restored-sword.htm

Hoan Kiem Lake - Lake of the Restored Sword
Kids playing along the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake.

Hoan Kiem Lake from above
This is an old picture I found. Currently, the street below is usually a lot more busy. There is so much traffic that the smell of exhaust is inescapable.

Ho Chi Minh Mauseleum
The home of Uncle Ho's sarcophagus, a clear glass tomb. Some say he's really made of plastic, however one cannot argue how sacred this place is for some vietnamese. Many of them still leave there in tears.

Chua Mot Cot - One Pillar Pagoda
Built by a childless king as a thank you to the goddess of Mercy for finally bringing him a son. It was constructed to resemble a lotus flower climbing out of the pond.

Presidential Palace
Built for the French governor of Indo-China in the early 1900's. AFter the French were kicked out of Vietname, Ho Chi Minh refused to live in this palace, and instead chose a humble wooden house on stilts.

The Opera House
Further evidence of French influence in architecture around Hanoi. This is a very famous site in Hanoi for tourists and locals. I was able to catch a newly wed couple getting their pictures taken on the front steps.

Streets of the Old Quarter
A majority of the street names here start with Hang, which means merchandise or shop. The streets were named for their products or location. For example, skilled silversmiths now occupy Hang Bac Street one of the most ancient streets in all Vietnam.

Streets of the Old Quarter
Back in the day, people came from the same village and performed the same craft on these streets. Soon, homes, evolved out of market stalls before streets ever came into existence. Because the stalls and shops were taxed by the frontage space they took up on the market, storage and living space moved to the back of the house rather than on the sides. Over time, they developed into these long and narrow houses, called tube houses.

Water Puppet Show
A traditional show that began over 800 years ago around Hanoi. The shows usually depict everyday life and struggles of the common people.

Puppeteers
During performances, puppeteers control their puppets through a pole-and-string apparatus concealed by the pond water.

Temple of Literature
Dedicated to Confucius, the temple was founded in 1070. The green pool was home to a couple hundred huge koi fish. No fishing signs were everywhere.

Temple of Literature
Huge Stelae atop Giant Tortoises listed the names, dates of birth and achievements of the graduates from the Temple of Literature.

Hoa Lo Prison - Hanoi Hilton
The entrance of the former prison built by the French to detain and torture "nonconformists" during their occupation. This was also the site of the famous American POW prison where Sen. John McCain and several airmen were held durint the Vietnam War.

Hanoi Hilton
Originally, the prison spanned a few city blocks (pictured), however, the Vietnamese tore down most of the prison to make way for two large skyscrapers called the Hanoi Towers. What's left is a museum geared towards the torture of the Vietnamese under French rule.

Only Evidence of Hanoi Hilton
Pictured is the only evidence of North Vietnamese admitting to holding American POW's in this prison during the Vietnam War.

Senator John McCain
John McCain, a former prisoner of Hoa Lo, was shot down over Hanoi and brought to the prison with two broken arms and legs. He attempted suicide two times during his 5 year stay at the Hanoi Hilton.
More info on prisoner treatment here...
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/amex/honor/gallery/index.html

B52 Lake
Site of where an American B52 went down in Hanoi. They left the plane in the lake, which is surrounded by homes, and let it rust away along with the memories of the war.

Cot Co - Hanoi Flag Tower
It is one of the rare architectural works in Hanoi that was fortunate enough not to be destroyed by the French in 1894 or American bombing raids in 1970's. It was built as an observation tower by French troops in 1812 and has an impressive view from the top.

Comments

[char]

invigorating
[(cURiousity*explorING)learning+(travel/Fun)]=BEER!!! (snakewine=gross)

[asiansnakewine]

Snake wine souvenir
Hello, I'm sorry, but if I can help somebody to find his Vietnamese gift, the website is http://www.asiansnakewine.com Thanks.

[linh nga]

I found your journal when I was looking around for information about Hoan Kiem lake to finish my project. As an Vietnamese,I find your comment very interesting,especially the "beer" part.May be it's because you're a man...I want to be a traveler like you so badly,but I'm (really) too young.May be some day we'll meet each other in Bangkok,or right in Hanoi at my place and drink Halida ^_^.Hug.

[Lt Col Lewin]

thank you
Hi! Thank you for writing a comment about my travel blog. I would like to share a Halida with you next time I am in Hanoi. I am in San Diego now and looking for a job in Hanoi. Hopefully, I will find one! Xin chao

[Trang]

^^
your blog just brings me nostralgia, I'm a Vietnamese living in the US right now, you may find it strange for a teen like me to read this kind of blog but I do ^^, and I really miss my country too

[Van]

Great pics!
Your life is very exciting. Pictures are great except for the ones that showed the hotel room and bathroom in Phuket town - gross. Thanks for sharing!