Hanoi - Uncle Ho

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“You guys wanna go see a dead body?” Four friends set out on a mission to find a dead body in the classic Stand By Me. There’s something bizarre, on the verge of creepy about willingly going to see a deceased human being. Never really pictured myself voluntarily queuing up for the task, but there is a first time for everything.



Ho Chi Minh; the great Vietnamese leader, the liberator of modern Vietnam, Uncle Ho. Upon his death he was honored with a mausoleum, where his embalmed body is still placed for public viewing. Vietnamese people pilgrim to the site to pay their respect to the former leader. The informed tourist go to see a historically important figure. The uninformed tourist go because it’s in their Lonely Planet.



It’s an impressive building in itself, and looks even more significant centered on the huge Ba Dinh Square with little architecture or vegetation surrounding it. The system of security checks and allowed paths leading to the entrance is complex, but runs surprisingly smoothly. Security guards are everywhere, making sure no one disrespects the rules or deviates from the path. The path is actually more of a wide boulevard, but visitors are only supposed to use part of it, not its whole width. If the wrath of the mighty gods does not punish those who upset the order, a verbal correction by the angry security people will.



Taking pictures or filming is a big no no. Funnily enough the airport-like security check doesn’t prevent cameras from being carried through, but some more angry security people in a little booth along the route catches the devices that were missed in the first check. Cameras or phones have to be deposited for pick-up after the visit. With little or no instructions of what is happening to your device or where to collect it, you prepare for the thought of “Oh well, it was a good camera”. But the sentiment does injustice to the hosts, and devices are efficiently transported to the exit where they happily await their owners.



It’s a peculiar feeling to visit a person who’s been dead for over 40 years. It’s not like lining up with the hordes of people to see the Mona Lisa or the crown jewels at the Tower of London. This is a dead body, a corpse. Is this normal? Or is it in fact not a big deal? Time to enter the mausoleum. Time to view.



The queue is moving along in steady pace. The rules are many; silence, cover your legs, no hands in pockets, no crossed arms, walk in two lines. Before you know it you’re in the room with Uncle Ho. He’s just lying there, looking peaceful, almost content. Rather the appearance of a wax figure from Madame Tussauds than a mummy. The flow of people is still moving rather quickly, no time to stop and reflect. The Vietnamese travel from near and far to see the Ho Chi Minh. Maybe they say a prayer. Maybe they quietly say a few words. Maybe they’re obliged to go. Maybe they’re just curious about the man who liberated the country or divided it, depending on who you ask. Before you know it you’re out in the open again. In the end, it wasn’t only about seeing a dead body. It wasn’t only about adapting Vietnamese culture. It wasn’t about ideology. It wasn’t only about ticking off a must see in Hanoi. It wasn’t only about curiosity. It wasn’t only about paying respect to a historically significant leader. It was probably a combination of all. And it wasn’t a big deal.

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