Day Before Tet; Leaving Day

It is the day before Tet and we are leaving tonight. We went for lunch at our second favorite place, Quan An Ngon. It means "Delicious" in Vietnamese. The restaurant originally was set in a courtyard, with chefs cooking all around the outer perimeter. The cuisine is all traditional Vietnamese based on the three regions of the country - the North, South, and Central Highlands. The courtyard remains but they also have an indoor part, perfect on a day like today - the coldest day in Hanoi so far. Today we dressed baby Bao in a long-sleeved shirt, pants, socks, a quilted vest, and even a blanket, but still faced comments. What if they knew that he was actually the Boy from Vinh Long, living all of his days until recently in one of the warmest climates in Vietnam? Oy zoy yoy, sorry, oh my goodness. We really would have been judged harsh.

I am sad every last day that I leave Hanoi. This time it is bittersweet. Over the moon thrilled with Bao, but sad that we probably can't return for many years. On each 40 minute trip to the airport we have taken, I hold back tears as we leave, first through the old quarter, then through city, then countryside, finally arriving at Noi Bai airport. When we first flew into Noi Bai 11 years ago, it was before Clinton's visit, so they hadn't redone the airport. At that time it was a one room metal building, no frills, and no currency exchange. Taking a taxi meant riding in an old Russian car, with no air con, windows rolled down just halfway, as they didn't fully work. And riding to the airport meant driving past row after row of rice paddies. Today we drive past malls, suburban developments, a golf course (!), and an industrial factory zone. Still, I will cry just the same.

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