An Incredible Coincidence

The other day we lamented that we wouldn't have the chance to visit Sapa on this trip. It has been three years since we have been there, and really love visiting with the hill tribe people, especially one family that we have known for 6 years. Yesterday after we left our friends we crossed the street to visit the Temple of Literature (a 1000 year old area with a temple and ancient tablets, indicating the first university in Vietnam, dating back to the time of Confucious). On the other side of the road, I saw a woman dressed in Dao clothing and said "Allen, I bet that woman is from Sapa." It was our very good friend Tamay! We couldn't believe it! First of all, you would never see a Dao person in Hanoi and if you did, they are very noticeable; they dress in very ornate clothing with heavily embroidered trousers and a red headress, folded over many times. They are actually called the Red Dao people, due to their clothing. And, she has only been to Hanoi 7 times in her entire life. She was here to make a delivery to a Westerner of antiques from an older man in her village (sadness, I hate it when antiquities leave Asia for the west). We were absolutely thrilled to introduce baby Bao to her, and he took to her immediately. Red Dao people are a tribal people that live in the northern mountains of Vietnam. They are animists, and decorate their clothing with symbols showing their love for all living things, such as the land, animals, and trees. They do not have a written language, but often speak of the time that they crossed over from China 600 years ago. They have designated Shaman, who participate in all things life and death. And now they are in danger of extinction, from Vietnamese encroaching on their land, tourism, and neighboring Chinese making copies of their handicrafts and selling them to tourists. So, it was bittersweet to see her here in the big city of Hanoi. We went to lunch and she held Bao for a long time. She took out her beautiful silver symbols that she wears on a heavy chain inside her clothing to protect her from evil spirits and she jangled it in front of Bao to amuse him. She told us that families are breaking down in her village, including her own, and the communal way of life is all but gone. She said that when we come next time, we should come to Sapa and she will take care of Bao, and she showed us the Dao way of burping a baby (she just jiggled him a little and it worked!) Her sister, Lamay, was one of two Red Dao children provided a scholarship by the Vietnamese government to attend school in Hanoi, but had just left for Tet so we couldn't see her. Such a different way of life for a Red Dao girl in the big city. Tamay said she called home crying for her whole first year here but now is adjusting. After lunch and a visit to the temple all together, it was time to part. Don't know if we will ever see her again. We took photos of her with Bao, would love to post, but unable to do so on this computer in our room. Will try to find another.

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