APEC Impact

APEC Impact

Today Nguyen earned our respect - and more than earned his salary.

Our last half-day in Hanoi was meant to be spent visiting the standard Tourist Attractions. So we dutifully headed off towards the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum …. Only to find the whole area had been closed down by the Police. It seemed that the assembled masses of opportunists clinging to the APEC gravy train were being given exclusive access. From that moment every attempt at following our agenda was frustrated by more roadblocks. Finally Nguyen took us to a Pagoda which was mercifully still available to fare-paying plebeians like us.
We wandered around slowly, trying hard to fill out the hours remaining ‘till our flight to Danang. Nguyen did a superb job of entertaining us - if half his information was true the boy must be a living encyclopaedia ;o)
When we emerged from the Pagoda we had a small shock: our car had gone, the streets were completely empty and hordes of Police had appeared. They kept themselves busy by shoving the local Vietnamese further and further back up side streets - and ordered the closure of all windows and doors visible from the road. We nonchalantly ignored them and equally nonchalantly continued to amble down the sidewalk. Soon police cars were wailing their way up and down, shouting instructions down loud-hailers. Good Ol’ George Bush was coming. God Bless America.
We were eventually ordered back behind barriers, so we shuffled along at a snail’s pace, just to prove our superiority. Jan, bless her, was quite excited about seeing Bush .
Eventually the sound of multiple wailing sirens announced the arrival of his convoy. Local Police vehicals were followed by black armoured people carriers full of suits. Then the Presidential Limos, followed by more suits in shades, countless cars full of coat-tail catchers and finally TV crews hanging out of vans and vainly searching for cheering Vietnamese to film. Never have the streets of Hanoi been so devoid of life. No-one around us seemed excited by the presence of Bush, but the cars drew some appreciation. An elderly lady spat, muttered something obviously obscene and made a gesture in the direction of the departing circus.
After a few whistle blasts traffic suddenly flowed again, streets filled with throngs of people and normal life resumed.
On we went, to the Temple of Literature. Here again the roads were suddenly closed to traffic and we were pushed aside to let a fat, greying individual try striking a ceremonial drum. Dressed in grey flannels and a long-sleeved blue shirt with grossly sweaty armpits, he looked embarrassed as he hefted a ceremonial gavel and slowly hit three dull “Donks.” Then he was ushered away, followed by hordes of chattering bespectacled secretaries with plastic name tags swinging from underfilled blouses. Off they clattered and chattered and we were allowed to resume our tour.
Then came the news that our flight to Danang had been delayed, so poor old Nguyen was faced with the challenge of filling even more time. I honestly cannot remember what we did, but I do remember that it was filled with laughter as Nguyen warmed to the task.
After a slow - very slow - luncheon we headed out in search of three cyclos, to take a tour through Old Hanoi. Now cyclos are normally found on every corner …. But, in the urge to make the streets of Hanoi more presentable to the APEC minions the cyclos had been driven underground by the Police. We drove round in circles for ages before we finally tracked down a cyclo …. And he led us to two more. A fun hour followed, defying death weaving in and out of the Hanoi traffic and frantically filming Hanoi street life.
Then we were whisked off to the airport for a final farewell with Nguyen. We genuinely didn’t want to say farewell and Jan was given a long hug by the boy wonder before he left us:o(
We settled down to a free soft drink, provided by Vietnam Airlines, and listened resignedly to the succession of delay announcements. Even after we had boarded APEC had the last laugh: Our plane was held on the Apron for a further twenty minutes because of an incoming VIP flight.

At Danang we were met by Phong, our new guide. He was anxious to get us straight into a restaurant to feed, We, on the other hand, were tired, hot and sweaty having left our last hotel 12 hours ago. He would not be dissuaded and dragged us into a hot, empty Chinese restaurant where we ate virtually nothing. Then off for an hour-long transfer to Hoi An.
Tired and irritable, we were prised out of the car and told “look- this is your hotel. Very nice, very convenient for Old Town. Even has swimming Pool. Please sit down while I book you in….”

And so it began again. Frantic ‘phone calls, unrelenting reception staff. Lack of information and finally:

“So sorry sir, not booked in and no spare rooms……”

Don’t miss the next episode: Bikes, Boats and Beautiful Food

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