Hanoi & Halong Bay

Hanoi and Halong Bay…

We arrived into Hanoi at 6 o’clock in the morning and it was bloody freezing!!! We were acclimatising to this cold weather as we ventured further up the coast but we were not ready to be wearing our scarves and jumpers as we stepped off the bus. We found accommodation easily as we were whisked off by a pre-paid taxi to a hotel in the Old Quarter of the city. After catching up on some sleep (the bus journey was good but a hotel bed was far more comfy) we set out on an adventure around the city in seek of some grub and a travel agent to book our Halong Bay junk boat trip. This city is hectic, to say the least!!! The constant beep beep beep of horns and near misses with mental scooter riders and taxi drivers. Don and I both began to get sore heads trying to navigate around this crazy city. After a spot of lunch and a well deserved beer we hunted for the best price amongst the millions of travel agents in this city. They all steal each other’s names, most of the businesses trade under the same names, so the trick is to go for one which looks original. It was not an easy task but in the end, as our funds were running low, we decided to go for the cheapest option, which looked a good deal and we’re really not that posh - we don’t need to spend the extra $5 (tight arses!). We soon scarpered back to the hotel to hide in the comfort of our bedroom, away from the noisy, mental city outside. We hit the hay rather early in preparation for our big trip in the morning.

We were picked up at 8am and were loaded onto a bus full of Germans. Three hours East of Hanoi is Halong City where we were guided towards the wharf and towards our boat. There were hundreds of Junk Boats queuing up at the wharf ready to load and unload hundreds of tourists. It was massively different to the calmness of the Whitsunday cruise we did at the beginning of our journey, in Australia. As we climbed from boat to boat to reach our vessel at the back of the queue, I wondered if it was the best idea to have my backpack securely strapped to me, if I were to fall in I would definitely sink! Eek! We settled in to the top deck of our Junk Boat, with reclining seats for sunbathing and a vodka and coke in hand, which of course we had bought before getting on board…got to save the pennies! Lunch was served on the boat as we left the harbour. All the meals here mainly consist of fish and tofu - Don’s favourite, teehee! The food was nice enough and it was lovely to be eating lunch while cruising out to sea.

First stop was an island with some rather impressive caves. As we pulled into the port there was loud, cheesy music playing and an announcement telling everyone not to throw rubbish and not to drink on the island, which was a big con as they were selling overpriced beer at every stop on the walk through the caves! The loud speaker system seemed to make the experience a little less beautiful but as I said, the caves were impressive. Unfortunately our guide didn’t speak the best English so we didn’t learn as much as we had hoped but the walk was quite amazing. The caves were lit up with different coloured lights for some more cheesy effect and accentuate the stalagmites and stalactites’ growing from floor and ceiling. After some good exercise trekking up and down never-ending steps, we were herded back onto the boat ready to head for Cat Ba Island, the only populated island in Halong Bay.

The boat was crowded with Irish once again, what a surprise! They were a good bunch who had only just began their travels and were travelling the long way to Australia. Speaking to them just made me want to head the other way and head right on back to Aus for another year, however, the good old UK is beckoning and Aus wouldn’t have us back anyhow! We moored up at Cat Ba and clambered onto a rickety old bus with broken seats and rusty windows. On to Cat Ba town where there are beaches, hotels and pubs - perfect! The hotel was included in the package and was ample. After a fishy dinner we went for a wander and ended up bumping into the Irish folk seven stories up in a bar at the top of a hotel - Coincidence? - I don’t think so! Needless to say we missed out on the three hour trek the next morning beginning at 7:30am. We were up in time for lunch and a visit to freshen up in the sea of one of the islands fine beaches. I was so excited! The sun was out for the first time in a long time and although the water was freezing the sun was able to warm us through as we lay on the golden sand for an hour or two. After a splash and a doze on the beach Don and I were feeling fresh, as for Wilsy it would take him 2 more days to shake his hangover - oops! We headed back to the boat on an arranged bus which unfortunately inflicted Celine Dion upon us at top volume for the 30 minute journey, Noooooo!!!

We were soon back on our boat and cruising around with these magnificent limestone islands towering out of the water, shadowing us and the sea around us. We watched yet another beautiful sunset before having another fishy dinner on the boat. By this point Don was having withdrawal symptoms from the lack of palatable food. There are lots of little huts and housing floating on the water with families and their dogs (probably for food - avoid the dodgy meat in Hanoi!!!). They were near every island with boats for fishing and transport. Dozens of little communities floating on the water, very cool. Each area had rowing boats selling fruit and fish calling at each Junk Boat and house trying to sell their goods sourced from the mainland. It is similar to what we have seen on the streets of the cities, women carrying fruit, tugging at your clothes trying to grab your attention get sell you a bunch of bananas, however, instead of carrying the goods in baskets hanging from a stick they were rowing wee boats and circling us in the water.

We slept on the boat for the second night of our trip. We were shown to our room and it was lovely. Nothing like the cramped bunkrooms of the Clipper in Australia, everything was made of bright, varnished wood and the beds were small but really comfy. Each room had en suite with toiletries and hot water and our room had a window at each side of the boat with breathtaking views. We had an early night, just chilled on the deck playing cards and drinking tea, very civilised! - and then retired to our lovely rooms to be rocked to sleep by the gentle movement of the sea below us. We had moored up for the night surrounded by huge limestone islands as the sky darkened. There were lots of other junk boats moored up close by and as their lights reflected off the water I couldn’t help but get carried away taking photographs. It was just so peaceful and calming. The crew on our boat weren’t the best and we did end up getting quite frustrated with them on several occasions, however, we did choose the cheapest cruise so it was to be expected and we didn’t let it spoil anything. With these amazing views, none of that seemed to matter, it was well worth it! We woke in the morning to Fried eggs and French bread - Hurrah, no fish!!!

We took it easy on the final day of our trip, we just cruised on back to Halong City taking in the breathtaking scenery and snapping away with the cameras. The sun had disappeared again and it was real chilly, we wrapped up warm and sat up on the top deck for the journey back to the mainland. We had decided not to stick with the tour group and jump straight on the bus back to the crazy business Hanoi, we wanted to chill out in Halong City for a few more days before our flight back to Bangkok and onto the UK. The idea was to spend a couple of days lying on a beach sunning ourselves so that when we arrive home we at least have a bit of a tan but as it happened the sun refused to grace us with it’s presence so we’ll come home looking as pale and pasty as when we left nearly two years ago. Ho hum, can’t have everything! Halong City is a nice chill out spot. There is not much to do or see but there are some nice little restaurants and a good night market, perfect for the rest of our present shopping!

So it’s back to Bangkok tomorrow and then on home. It will be sad to leave Asia but we are all looking forward to seeing everyone at home and we are especially looking forward to the sub zero weather conditions, eek!

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