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Qaraqalpakstan Travel Blogs

Background: Russia conquered Uzbekistan in the late 19th century. Stiff resistance to the Red Army after World War I was eventually suppressed and a socialist republic set up in 1924. During the Soviet era, intensive production of "white gold" (cotton) and grain led to overuse of agrochemicals and the depletion of water supplies, which have left the land poisoned and the Aral Sea and certain rivers half dry. Independent since 1991, the country seeks to gradually lessen its dependence on agriculture while developing its mineral and petroleum reserves. Current concerns include terrorism by Islamic militants, economic stagnation, and the curtailment of human rights and democratization.




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Khiva
Khiva
Khiva from top of minaret
One nice day in Tashkent we were in a big hurry to go to train leaving for Urgench. Why such a hurry? Well, trip was planned long time before, but plans changes and the final decision to go on a trip which will last about a week was made a day before. But we were able to come in time to train station and buy first class ticket (“we” means me, my Uzbek friend Bekzod and my Czech friend Roman). So that’s how it started. First of all we had to survive 20 hours on train, which did not seem too [View Full Entry]

Darameja - Agne Serpytyte | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1402 Words | 4 Comment(s) | 11 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: May 2nd 2008 | 1359 Views | [diary=272152]

Lake near Aral Sea
Us in Aral Sea
Bottom of Sea...

Monday morning, and our last excursion into the wilderness is at hand. Having covered the area west of Moynaq we will now travel to Jyltarbas lake and the nearby plantations on the eastern side. But first we need to get our tickets for tomorrow's flight to Tashkent. We drive to the national bank office which is situated at the local municipal buildings just a block away from the hotel. We stand around patiently waiting for them to open up the office. Otabek cleverly makes use of my foreign looks to sneak us past the waiting crowd outside, past the guards and [View Full Entry]

grantcorp - Johan | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
874 Words | 3 Comment(s) | 17 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: September 6th 2005 | 598 Views | [diary=18118]

Passing through small towns along the way
End of paved road
Salty sand traps

The children of Moynaq
The children of Moynaq
Part of a collage at the museum.
Picking up the pieces from last night we're quite happy to return to Nukus. We load up the car but before leaving we head downtown to the local Aral Sea museum, since the caretakers have opened it especially for us. It is a small hall with various regional memorabilia, paintings of fishermen, models of fishing vessels made by school children, photographs from the old canning factories, stuffed animals from the region and so on. Paging through a binder with old photographs I suddenly come across a photograph that captures my interest. It depicts some ships and a special tractor with a [View Full Entry]

grantcorp - Johan | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
514 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 4 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: August 30th 2005 | 880 Views | [diary=18061]

Leaving for the final time
MAZ trucks at a Nukus scrapyard
I have begun my malaria prevention treatment

Sleep well, dear?
Sleep well, dear?
Best night I ever spent in this country!
It is a beautiful morning. Seven a.m. and the sun is shining on the plains. Birds are chirping in the brush, and dirty flies are sitting on my face. I wake up and feel intensely relaxed. Before the others get up I quickly sneak out to take some pictures of the slumbering station. Soon we are sitting on a blanket in the shadow offered by the car having our token noodle, tea and bread breakfast, spiced up with some canned meat and tomatoes. We head out into the plains for the final leg to the coastline and I am beginning to [View Full Entry]

grantcorp - Johan | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1238 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 24 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: August 30th 2005 | 1902 Views | [diary=17971]

The weather station
Familiar breakfast tradition
Bread and noodles, refugee-style

By grantcorp
July 29th 2005
Hunters Asia » Uzbekistan » Qaraqalpakstan » Moynaq
First tea of the day
First tea of the day
Washing away the memories of a sleepless night.
Morning comes and again relieves me from the agony of unsuccesful sleep. I am very much glad to pack my gear and move on, even though I know that our next night will be spent somewhere in the desert. We have a simple breakfast consisting of (you guessed it) tea, bread and noodles. Rustam arrives with the UAZ jeep and we pack our belongings and remaining water back into the trunk. We also bring along two matresses and some bedsheets from the hotel. It is a beautiful sunny morning, and already it is starting to get hot. We begin the day [View Full Entry]

grantcorp - Johan | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
2916 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 29 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: October 21st 2005 | 1455 Views | [diary=14082]

Moynaq fish canning factory
Glory of the sea
In memoriam.

Coming up on Moynaq
Coming up on Moynaq
Getting a first glimpse of tonight's destination.
After giving up mosquito swatting around 2.30 and fruitless attempts at coherent sleep in this bake oven I am finally rescued by the first morning light. Otabek has had bedside visits by the little suckers too, and he looks about the way I feel. We moan and groan a bit before getting some sausage and eggs for breakfast in the hotel restaurant. Today's agenda has one item; we are to meet up with Rustam early morning for a drive to the airport. We'll then do the survey flight over the southern part of the Aral Sea that I have been fantasizing [View Full Entry]

grantcorp - Johan | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
2048 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 25 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: December 25th 2005 | 2700 Views | [diary=14080]

Hotel Nukus
Nukus Airport
Farmland near Nukus