Thailand

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The Amazing Kingdom of Thailand
March 11-23, 2003

Our vacation in Thailand was a cultural, sensual, idyllic experience from beginning to end, from Bangkok to the hill tribes, from the Buddhist temples to the elephants. No other traveling experience matches exotic Thailand. Visiting is like entering another world of picturesque beauty, natural charm, fascinating history, and lovingly preserved customs. As for the Thais, they are among the most gracious people in the world, and they live happily in their blessed land. Their constant smiles, serene attitudes, and gracious manners were particularly exemplified by our spunky tour guide, Arunya Thawornnanta. What a delight she was! Her shining smile and sense of humor plus the many extra amenities, comforts, and conveniences that she provided made the trip even more memorable and enjoyable.

March 11-13, Houston—L.A.—Taipei—Bangkok
Our group of 6, Michael, Jeryn, Theresa, Tracy, Bill, and I, (Josh and Walter would join us later in Bangkok) left Houston at 7 p.m. on the 11th of March, crossed the international dateline, and arrived on the 13th around noon after 22 hours of flying and airport time. We had upgraded our seats to first class on the Continental leg and to Evergreen Deluxe on the EVA legs, so we were fairly comfortable throughout.

Our guide and escort for the next 9 days, Arunya, met us at the airport and escorted us to our gorgeous 5-star hotel, the Landmark, in the heart of bustling Bangkok. Our lovely room welcomed us with robes, slippers, fresh roses in the bedroom and bath, fresh fruit welcome basket, bottled water, plus two other items not often provided in hotel rooms—an umbrella and a scale! The bathroom was large and beautiful with emerald green and white marble throughout.

Arunya arranged for traditional Thai massages for most of us in the afternoon--trained graduates of the Traditional Thai Massage School at the Wat Po Temple came to our room and gave us well over two hours of pure relaxation with the unique Thai combination of aromatherapy, acupressure, yoga, and chiropractic manipulation. The cost--about $10 each. We ate an early dinner at Anna’s (Anna & the King) across the street with Michael and Jeryn while Theresa and Tracy were fitted for clothes at a local tailor, then went back to the room, where orchids had been placed on our pillows, for a welcomed night’s sleep.

March 14, 2003, Bangkok
The huge breakfast buffet each morning at the Landmark was a combination of American and Thai food. Fried glass noodles with egg, stir fried vegetables with oyster sauce, a variety of fish dishes and sausages, and a dozen types of fresh Thai fruit and juices complemented the more American eggs, bacon, omelets, breads, sweet rolls, cereals, etc.

This morning we visited the famous flower market and four of the most important temples of Bangkok. Open 24 hours a day, the Pak Khlong Market provides the city with fresh flowers and vegetables. Known for offering the best array of flowers in Thailand, it is a one-stop florist’s dream. Roses, orchids, lotus, jasmine, and Dutch tulips cover several blocks with color. Arunya bought each of us a large bouquet of orchids for about 25 cents each!

The first temple we visited was Wat Traimitr, or Temple of the Golden Buddha, which contains a 13-foot high Buddha statue made of 18-karat-gold. The gleaming five-ton image is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha image. Theresa’s walking shoes, unfortunately, looked too much like someone else’s, and when we came out of the temple, only one of her shoes plus one similar shoe belonging to someone else were waiting for her at the entrance. All of us were then dispatched to wander the grounds looking for someone wearing two mismatched shoes! We never found her other shoe, so Arunya bought her a pair of sandals to wear.

Next, we visited Wat Pho, or the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, which is Bangkok’s oldest and largest temple and a monastic city in itself dating from the 16th century. The overwhelming Buddha statue is covered in gold, and at 46 meters long and 12 meters high, it is the largest Buddha statue in Thailand. The temple is regarded as Thailand’s first university where traditional Thai massage originated and is still taught. The third wat we visited was a royal temple ornately constructed in Italian marble, the Marble Temple, or Wat Benchamabopitr. Finally, we boarded a ferry across the Chao Phraya River to the magnificent multi-colored, porcelain-studded towers (called prangs) of Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn. The main, central prang is 280 feet tall and is surrounded by four minor prangs, all decorated with striking flower and decorative motifs.

The temples were our first taste of the ornately grand Thai architecture, and there is no way photos can do justice to the visual experience. Thai Buddhist architecture has a distinctive style of its own: high, gabled roofs, ceramic tiles in bright colors or gold-covered, decorations including magnificently carved wooden panels often inlaid with splendid mother-of-pearl decorations or adorned with gold leaf for a glistening effect in the sunlight and a twinkling effect at night. The temples are guarded by colorful stone spirits such as Chinese giants, bronze lions, elephants, or the mythical eagle-like garuda. It was almost like being in another universe.

We were beginning to tip into sensory overload, so we stopped for lunch at a small café. About a dollar bought a plate of Thai noodles or rice with chicken or seafood, and about 15 cents bought a soft drink. The food was delicious and cooked to our taste—not too spicy. After lunch, we experienced one of Bill’s favorite parts of the entire trip, a fascinating excursion on the picturesque Chao Phraya River and klongs (canals). We boarded a hang yao, or long-tailed water taxi, a long, thin graceful vessel, powered by an automobile engine. An amazing feat of strength and balance was needed by the muscular boatman to steer the boat—especially at 30 knots! We obtained an intimate glimpse of traditional Thai life as we explored the maze of waterways and saw people using the river to wash their clothes and little ladies in floating kitchens serving rice and noodles to customers in other boats. Wooden houses on stilts—from the rundown to the elegant—perched on the water’s edge, each with its own spirit house perfumed with incense and decked out with flowers and other offerings. One of the highlights was when we stopped to feed the “royal catfish.” Fish in the waterways in front of temples are considered holy and are not allowed to be caught and eaten. They are very tame and pampered (and large—about 8-10 pounds each) and came right up to the boat and partially out of the water for the bread Arunya provided us to feed them with. It was a thrashing, splashing battle for the bread!
This evening we enjoyed a fabulous dinner at the Sala Rim Nam Restaurant in the renowned Oriental Hotel, located on the river and repeatedly voted the world’s best hotel. Truly one of Bangkok’s special places, we sat on pillows at low tables in the glittering, bronze-trimmed, teak and marble main hall, and dined on finely crafted Thai dishes. Classical dancers from Bangkok’s Department of Fine Arts performed a one-hour show of royal and folk dances. The traditional Thai food was chili-hot but harmoniously toned down by the sweetness of the coconut cream and other delicate ingredients and herbs, as well as the steamed fragrant jasmine rice.

March 15, Bangkok
This morning we enjoyed a private guided tour of the National Museum, which gave a comprehensive overview of Thai art and culture. One of the most amazing exhibits was the Royal Funeral Chariots Gallery, which contained about 8 or 10 lavishly decorated, gilded teak chariots used in royal funeral processions.

In the afternoon we visited the Grand Palace complex, a remarkable site surrounded by fortress walls stretching for over a mile. It contains, among many other structures, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s holiest temple (visitors must cover their knees and shoulders before entering). The temple contains more exquisite carving and decoration per square centimeter than any comparable site in the world. Thai creative genius and artistry are epitomized in this dazzling collection of halls, courts, and temples, which combine deep reverence and sheer fantasy. The complex was truly unlike anything I had ever seen or imagined, and my first impression was overwhelming: totally enchanting, gilded, graceful, and elegant, with ornately carved gables, delightful mythical creatures, colorful glass mosaics, and delicate mural paintings. This enchanting scene will remain as one of the most memorable experiences of the splendor and pageantry of Thailand.

We spent the remainder of the afternoon shopping at the World Trade Center, a large, luxury-shopping complex seven stories tall.

In the evening we enjoyed a fabulous dinner cruise on the fabled Chao Phraya River. We experienced first-class Thai hospitality and delicious Thai food in the comfort and tranquility of a luxurious, open-air, antique teakwood rice barge. Traditional Thai dancing entertained us during dinner, and we stopped briefly at the Temple of Dawn to watch a sound and light show.

March 16, Bangkok--Ayutthaya
Following breakfast at the hotel, we boarded the beautiful Shangri-La Horizon for a leisurely, luxurious cruise along the Chao Phraya, Bangkok’s “River of Kings” to Ayutthaya, founded in 1350 and the former capital of the Kingdom of Siam for hundreds of years until the Burmese invaded and destroyed it. We enjoyed glimpses of everyday Thai life along the river and a fabulous buffet lunch on board with well over 60 different Thai dishes, including a dessert buffet containing over a dozen delectable delights! Our first stop when we arrived at our destination in mid-afternoon was the Bang Pa-In Palace, a popular summer retreat for Thai kings. The Royal Palace is set amidst a beautiful park which contains an exotic combination of Thai and European architecture. Anyone (including the men) who was wearing shorts was provided with a wraparound skirt to wear out of courtesy and respect. We saw some 6-foot salamanders that we were told are plentiful in the lakes and canals. They looked like alligators!

The next stop was an elephant camp for some photos with the precious pachyderms as we treated them with sugar cane. After a brief stop there, we motored on to tour the remains of the once impressive temples and palaces which stand in reminder of the city’s glorious past. After checking into our hotel, which was located on the banks of the Krungsri River, we pampered ourselves with another two-hour massage before turning in for the night. We decided to skip dinner because we had already had two giant buffets at breakfast and lunch!

March 17, Ayutthaya—Bangkok—Chiang Rai
We bussed back to Bangkok’s international airport for a 1 ½-hour domestic flight on Thai Airways to Chiang Rai, located in Thailand’s most northern province. After lunch at a local café—each eating well for about $1 again--we visited two historic wats (temples), one of which was Wat Phra Kaeo, which houses a green jade replica of the Emerald Buddha.

We left the city behind and headed north through gorgeous mountainous scenery to the little town of Mae Chan to visit the Hilltribe Development and Welfare Center, which aids and administers local hilltribe settlements. We toured the museum, wandered around the parklike surroundings, and visited a local settlement school.

Our bus deposited us at the foot of a lushly terrained mountain called “Mountain of Clear Hearts,” where we were met by a four-wheel drive van that took us a half mile or so via narrow, winding, cliff-edge roads to the luxurious, yet rustic retreat, Phu Chaisai Resort and Spa. 80 per cent of this ingenious “natural” resort is imaginatively made of bamboo by local bamboo craftsmen—walls, ceilings, floors, furniture, door handles, soap dishes, taps, lampshades, coathangers, toilet tissue rollers, light fixtures, and even the door bolt. The simplistic yet elegant suites are roofed in teak-leaf thatch and included artfully draped mosquito nets over the kingsized bed; 2 cushioned divans, one in the bedroom and one on the wide veranda; and a spectacular view looking out across a broad valley to undulating hills in the distance and overlooking the Dton Loong hilltribe village. The balconied cottages cascade down the hill in neat terraces with a compelling view spanning about 200 degrees to Burma and China. The uninterrupted peace and tranquility of this natural setting, the lush tropical gardens, plus the proven recuperative benefits and healing aesthetics of bamboo, are enhanced by the unique, open-air, pampering spa that offered an extensive choice of health and beauty packages including Swedish massage, Thai massage, mud wraps, scrubs, salt glows, facials, aromatherapy, and more. Of course, Bill and I had massages again, plus I had my hair shampooed (four different treatments with a 20-minute scalp massage!).The food here was excellent, as the herbs and vegetables are all organically grown on the property.

March 18, Chiang Rai—Mae Sai—Golden Triangle
Today was devoted to exploring the Golden Triangle area. We began in the northernmost town in Thailand, Mae Sai, located on the border with Burma. Here we had both our best and our worst experiences in shopping! The shops in Mae Sai were excellent, containing high quality merchandise at very reasonable prices, plus they bargained good-naturedly and politely. Our experience in Burma was not nearly as pleasant. Jeryn and Walter had earlier decided not to join us in our border crossing because we had been told that about one in 100 people get arrested in Burma for no good reason. However, the rest of us decided to take our chances. We were a little queasy when the border officials kept our passports, but we continued to the Burmese side and tried to shop. The vendors were so pushy and just descended upon us in hordes and wouldn’t take no for an answer, so we didn’t stay very long. Bill bought a megaphone for a couple of dollars that we had fun with as we called out to Theresa and Tracy in the market, but we literally ran back to the more laidback Thailand (and retrieved our passports en route!)

We continued to Chiang Saen, a beautiful provincial town located on the Mekong River and on to the “Golden Triangle,” the meeting point of the borders of Burma, Laos, and Thailand. An hour boat ride on the Mekong River gave us views of primitive Laos and was followed by a visit to the Opium Museum. The museum displays artifacts relating to opium production in the Golden Triangle, once the center point of illicit opium and heroin activities. Today, the Thai government has cleaned up the area and works to assist the farmers in planting alternative crops such as rice, corn, and vegetables.

This evening we relaxed in the clear fresh air on our private veranda at the resort, watching a dazzling sunset and listening to the peacocks and other animals in the forest. We truly enjoyed our stay here.

March 19, Chiang Rai—Chiang Mai
It is almost impossible to keep all of the incredible experiences straight in my mind. There have been so many fabulous sights, and every day we see more and more. I’ve never been on a trip when we have just been continually bombarded with so many wonderful experiences for a solid week! Today was no different. Just as I thought all the highlights of the trip must be behind us, we had another incredible day visiting some of the hilltribe villages that northern Thailand is known for. Because some of the mountainous roads are very steep, transportation was by van, and we traveled the narrow hilly roads through a beautiful landscape with spectacular views. We had all bought school supplies and candy the day before to give to the children, so we were armed and ready when we arrived at schools in the villages; however, we weren’t really ready for the eager reception we received. The kids ran to us and gathered around to wait for their treats—but every one of them remembered to “wai” before accepting. It was so cute, the way they would press their hands together and bow and then snatch the candy and run. (The wai is the traditional Thai greeting, gesture of thanks, and expression of respect.) We visited the mountain top village of Doi Mae Salong, which was founded by Chinese refugees fleeing China in 1949 after the Communist takeover. We stopped at a shop with traditional Chinese medicine made purely from herbs and had a “tea tasting” of several herbal teas, along with fried and salted bamboo worms! I actually liked them and bought some to take home. The men were offered opportunities to purchase “performance-enhancing” herbs, but I don’t think any of our men bought any!

We continued via winding roads up and through the lush mountains that border Thailand and Burma to the isolated villages of the Akha and Yao hilltribes. These tribes still wear their beautiful, traditional clothing and live simple lives that follow old rules of tradition and nature. In the Akha village, the residents clearly lived close to nature. The homes are all of local, handmade materials, and there did not appear to be any electricity. Built onto the hillside, the village was a base for the agricultural activities in the surrounding hills and valleys. It was mid-morning, and many of the adults were off working in the forest and farmland. The remaining children and their caretakers were friendly and hospitable, going about their daily business while allowing us to wander freely through the village. The clothing of the Akha was very attractive, with simple black jackets adorned with skillful embroidery the everyday attire for both men and women. The Akha shoulder bags are adorned with silver coins, baubles, and found beads, and are woven with exceptional skill.

The bus trip from the villages to our overnight destination, Chiang Mai, took over three hours but was lovingly punctuated by several stops, thanks to Arunya. She stopped at a roadside stand and bought us all “sticky rice and raisins in sugar cane.” YUM! A delicious rice/raisin pudding is stuffed into sugar cane stalks (like the ones we fed to elephants!) and you peel the sugar cane stalk like a banana to get to the rice inside. What an unusual, tasty treat! We also stopped at a natural hot springs area where we observed people boiling hen and bird eggs in a basket by lowering them into the boiling springs. Finally, we made a stop at a Thai version of “House of Pies.” The Thai owner had lived in the U.S. for awhile and learned how to bake pies, so he opened a shop in Thailand with traditional American pies such as banana cream and chocolate, as well as Thai versions such as mango, kumquat, and taro. Delicious! We finally arrived at our hotel, the Tamarind Village in Chiang Mai’s old town center, a peaceful, picturesque, village-style accommodation with a majestic 200-year old tamarind tree in the center courtyard. The rooms were entered via French doors and had a French Quarter feel, as soft white cottons and rich teakwood were combined in each room.

Dinner was in the Gallery Restaurant, a delightful garden restaurant on the banks of the Ping River.

March 20, Chiang Mai
After another fine breakfast buffet at the hotel—we particularly enjoyed the jackfruit (tastes between an orange and grapefruit), we were off again on a different bus which we nicknamed the pimpmobile because of its pink and fuchsia curtains and decorations. It was our first daylight glimpse of Thailand’s second most important city, an atmospheric city surrounded by walls and a moat, and renowned for its crafts trade. So, our first visit was the village of San Kampaeng, the handicraft center of the area, where we spent the morning at four different factories. First, we visited a teak factory where we were spellbound and amazed by the skill of the woodcarvers. The decorative pieces and the furniture were beautifully crafted—the teak was carved and the rosewood was inlaid with mother of pearl. Next, at Baan Celadon factory Bill and I purchased some pieces of this locally produced art, a kind of high-fired stoneware with a distinct and totally unique wood-ash glaze that gives it a green color. Each piece is uniquely crafted, fired, and painted. The gem factory was next, followed by the umbrella, or parasol factory, where one of the artists painted an elephant on my purse in about two minutes. We were unable to go to the silk factory because we had a 1:30 appointment with a monk, so we made a quick stop for another wonderful Thai buffet—the custard cakes were delicious (custard that was soft-fried in muffin tins). The “monk chat”, as they call it, was at (and this is no joke) Mahachulalonghornrajavidyalaya University. I guess it’s M.U. for short. The informal lecture by a Buddhist monk gave us insight into Buddhism’s teachings, one of which is to have a happy mind and to share that happiness with a smile.

This evening we took one of the truck taxis—basically a small pickup truck with a camper over benches in the back—to the night market area. We ate a quick dinner at a McDonald’s in the market. They actually had employees whose job it was to open and close the door for you and others who stood at the condiment bar and served you the ketchup, napkins, straws, etc.! The rest of the evening was spent wandering throughout the endless stalls selling hilltribe crafts and clothing before taking a “tuk-tuk” (a three-wheeled motorcycle/taxi with a colorful cab over the vehicle to “protect” the passengers!) back to the hotel. The open-air exhilaration of weaving around traffic and congested streets at death-defying speed was great!

March 21, Chiang Mai
Once again, just as we figured nothing could top what we had already done and seen, we visited an elephant camp. What a great time we had! First, we all rode elephants up a mountain path into the jungle. The path was very rocky, steep, and sometimes a bit scary, especially when going downhill. It felt like we would slide right off the elephant’s trunk! But, the scenery was beautiful, and the elephants were sure-footed and fascinating. Although their mahouts (trainers) seemed to be in control, the elephants really had minds of their own, and if one wanted to take a different route, scratch an itch on a rock, or stop completely, it did, no matter how the mahout protested! After this enjoyable trek, we watched the elephants bathing and frolicking in the river. Then we were treated to a performance showing off the intelligence, skills, sense of humor, and strength of elephants. They played soccer, they hammed it up for the audience doing a variety of dance steps, and they also painted. Each elephant had been trained to paint on a canvas, and the results were quite remarkable. These paintings are sold to the public to raise money to save the elephant population, which is endangered because their habitats are being destroyed, they are no longer needed for the logging industry, and they are quite a financial burden. I recently read that elephant paintings sell for hundreds of dollars at the New York auction houses. I bought the painting that we saw being painted for $10. Following that, we were given a demonstration of how elephants have been working in the jungles for centuries, using their trunks to move heavy logs.

En route back to Chiang Mai, we stopped at an orchid farm before lunching at another super Thai buffet. This was one that the locals frequented, so it was really cheap—about 75 cents for all you could eat. In the afternoon we visited two wats, including one with a statue of Buddha believed to be more than one thousand years old. Another lecture at Mahamakut University gave us further insights into Buddhism as we learned three methods of meditation and some interesting knowledge about the daily life of a monk. We returned to the hotel, and some of us got haircuts at the shop near the hotel--nice ones for only $2.50.

Our farewell dinner was at the hotel with Arunya ordering all of our favorites. She even made the waiter take some soup back because she knew we wouldn’t like its spiciness!

March 22-23, Chiang Mai—Bangkok—Taipei—Los Angeles—Houston
Our morning was at leisure—so Bill and I walked around the old city to the wall and the moat. Of course, we found a place to get one last massage. Bill had a regular full-body Thai massage and I had a heavenly foot massage. Alas, at 1 P.M. it was time to depart for the airport and our long, 40-hour trip home. Once again, we were in Evergreen Deluxe on EVA all the way to LA, and in LA we were fortunate to be able to use the Continental President’s Club for our six-hour layover and enjoyed beverages, snacks, television, and comfy chairs before the final 3-hour first class flight into Houston, arriving at 6 A.M. on Sunday, March 23.


Thank you, Thailand—Khopkhunkha—for

ONE OF THE BEST, IF NOT THE BEST, TRIPS WE HAVE EVER TAKEN!!!!

Sawatdeekha! (Good-bye)

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Photos

Elephant trek
We are on a trek through the Thai jungle.

Bangkok's flower market
Flowers as far as you could see. Our wonderful guide, Arunya, bought orchids for everyone...cost? 10 baht or about 25 cents per bunch!

Temple of the Golden Buddha
Bill is standing in front of the Golden Buddha, 13 feet tall, made of solid 18 kt. gold, weighing 5 tons.

Wat Arun
Wat Arun, Temple of Dawn, has five prangs, the central one being 280 feet tall.

Wat Arun
Exquisite porcelain flower motifs adorn all five prangs.

Temple
Temple grounds of Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn

Hang yao
We all boarded one of these "hang yao," or long-tailed water taxis, for an excursion on the Chao Praya River and "klongs," or canals.

Classical Thai dances
Dinner in the Oriental Hotel (voted the world's best) was followed by a performance of classical dances as we sat on pillows at low tables.

National Thai Museum
Michael and Bill practice their "wai" (gesture of greeting and respect) at the museum entrance.

Bang Pa In
Standing in front of the lake pavilion at Bang Pa In Palace near Ayntthaya

Bang Pa In
Linda tries to bend her fingers like the Thai dancers. It is an art learned as a young child through diligent practice.

Phu Chaisai
Taken at the entrance to the Phu Chaisai (Mountain of Clear Hearts) Resort & Spa

Tribal children
We brought school supplies and candy to a Catholic mission kindergarten in a hillside tribal village.

Golden Triangle
Here's our group at the Golden Triangle, where Myanmar (Burma), Laos, and Thailand meet.

Yao village
Language is never a barrier when you smile! At an Akha hilltribe village, this young Yao lady gave Bill her hat.

Akha village
In the villages, moms and dads work in the hillside fields while grandmas take care of babies.

Akha village
Tribal ladies displaying their handicrafts

Maesa Elephant Camp
Near Chiang Mai, the elephant camp cares for elephants that are no longer needed for heavy labor and are in danger of elimination.

Maesa Elephant Camp
The elephants performed for us, demonstrating their strength, agility, intelligence, and artistic ability. We bought one of the pictures they painted.

Thai taxi
Bill is standing in front of one type of Thai taxi, a truck with covered bed where we sat on benches.