THE FIRST FULL DAY

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September 5, 2010

The beds were so comfortable and we went to bed early the night before, so we were able to get up early to begin our first full day. We are not morning people, some of us less so than others, but we managed to be up showered and to breakfast by 9 am. This is actually a record for us.

AN INTERNATIONAL BREAKFAST

When traveling in Europe and they say breakfast is included, this typically means, coffee a roll and some cold cereal. At the Lebua, when they say breakfast is included they mean, breakfast and much more. We are greeted at the breakfast are with a sawatdee and Wai, asked our room number and seated. Then we are pointed towards the breakfast buffet. This is not a brunch buffet at the Red Lion, but a full international affair. Dim Sum, Indian cuisine, brioche, croissants, omelet station, Thai porridge, bacon, fresh fruit, sushi and much much more. Jerry was not daring and went straight for the waffle, pancakes and pastries. I went for the Dim Sum, 5 types of Dim sum, the Indian curry and brioche. I am now addicted to BBQ Pork Bun’s. There were also freshly squeezed juices, not just orange (which is the best orange juice I have ever tasted) but guava, watermelon, pineapple and carrot.

Our breakfast included all this, coffee and our malaria pills. Not they we have seen a mosquito yet. After breakfast, as if we could walk, we headed out for the morning.

PALACES, WATS, TUK TUK’S AND A LESSON LEARNED

River Transportation.

Our one sighting seeing destination for the day was the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew. It is located in what is referred to as the Old City. This is where most of the historic buildings and larger Wat’s are located. The best way to get there is by river ferry. Bangkok is surrounded by the Chao Phraya River; it once was in fact very similar to Venice with canals used as streets. Must of the canals are blocked off and not used for transportation, but the river is truly a working river. The central ferry stop was located 4 blocks from our hotel an easy walk. The walk is a great experience, the smells from the street food is amazing, even after that breakfast it can make you hungry. As we approached the ferry station, a man claiming to be an engineer (but standing on the street just to help us I guess) asked if we were taking the ferry, we of course said yes, then the pitch began. “Oh the river is to low (pointing to a canal, not the river) so the ferry’s are closed until high tide.” We did not bite. Then he offered us advice on what we should see and of course a cab was waiting to take us there. He also asked where we were headed, no harm in telling him the Grand Palace. “Oh, he exclaims (well Thai’s don’t really exclaim more insist) it is closed until 1:30, the monks are eating lunch, let me take you (I don’t even know where)” Again, we did not bite and kindly thanked him and went on our way. I did wonder if it could be true that the Palace and Wat were closed as the monks were eating lunch, I should not have wondered at all.

We get to the ferry dock and try to find the right boat (oh guess what big surprise the river is not to low for the boats to run). The guide book describes the system as consisting of a local line, three express lines and the tourist boat. There was not a ticket booth, so the first person who looked official to approach us we believed. They sold as 2 tickets for the tourist express boat 25 bahts each. The tourist boat, while not bad if you need a lot of assistance is overpriced and only stops at major tourist piers. So if you want to go somewhere that is not near a major sight, then the tourist boat does not help you. In addition, you pay twice as much over what you pay if you just take the orange express boat. It stops everywhere you would want to go and costs 14 bahts. 😊My river ferry tip is: Take the regular orange flag ferry, gets you where you want to go and saves you money. If you plan on spending all day on the river getting off and on then by all means buy the day long tourist pass for the tour ferry for 100 bahts. However, it really is not possible to take more than two maybe 4 trips a day, not if you really want to see anything that is.

So we get on the tour express boat, and head for Tha Tien, our stop for the Grand Palace. The ride is interesting as you see life on the river. As I said earlier the river is a busy working river, large barges going up and down loaded with rice, lumber, etc. It is also a major transportation route for locals and tourists. What you notice most, is not how dirty the river is, but how the extremes of Bangkok truly come out. There are literally shacks, which are people’s homes, next to expensive lavish hotels or even another home which is a mansion. Poverty and wealth exist somehow in absolute harmony right next to each other.

Silly Tourist

When we get off the boat, we walk through an area of several shops then on to the street. We stop to get our bearings; it takes about 3 seconds for someone to approach us asking where we are going? Do we need a tuk tuk. We of course not knowing exactly where we are or what direction to head in, tell the kind gentlemen that we are headed for the Grand Palace. “Oh, it’s not open now, the monks are eating nothing to see until 1:30” This sounds familiar, maybe it’s true. He even takes us to a man in a security uniform and he also says that the monks are eating nothing to see until 1:30, so why don’t we go to this other Wat which is open now and free. He guides us to a Tuk Tuk, 20 bahts and off we go. The Tuk Tuk drive takes about 10 minutes, so I figure we much be a long way from the pier that we got off on. We pay the driver and go into the Wat, there is nothing to see, it is under renovation and the temple with the Buddha is closed. Another man guides us around and explains, building locked as the monks are eating, those monks sure eat alot. (We later realize that the monks do not eat in the Wat, they go out on the street and the people give them food to eat.) So we are beginning to realize that perhaps we have been misled. The man at the Wat suggest we go to the market near buy, but we want to go to the Grand Palace, a tuk tuk driver approaches and says 100 bahts, it only cost 20 to get there how can it now cost 100. We get him to 20 bahts, get in. He goes around the block and behold the Grand Palace, we could have walked. We basically went in a big circle in an effort to get us to a market to spend money. In any event we walk to the entrance of the Grand Palace it is not closed and in fact never closes except holidays. We enter the gates and a tour guide approaches (a sanction tour guide) we ask if the palace open, she says of course it is always open, never believe what tuk tuk drivers say. In fact, the sign on the outside says, what the hours are and “Do not listen to wiley strangers that tell you the palace is closed” If only that sign was at the pier. 😞The big lesson and tip here is, Tuk Tuk drivers, security guards and people on the street, while nice and smiling will tell you anything you want to hear. They always have some connection to the United States, the Wat is always closed, and this tuk tuk driver can take you to a much better place anyway (better for the tuk tuk driver since he gets a kick back from the vendors at the market he will take you to). Just go directly to the ticket office of what ever it is you are going to see and pay to get in. A tour guide is not even necessary unless you have a need to spend 500 bahts.

The Palace and Wat

So finally, after an hour of getting the run around, we get into the Grand Palace and the Wat. This Wat is a royal Wat and different as a King most likely has their ashes there and you have to wear long pants. You may be asking what is a Wat? A Wat in short is a Buddhist temple. Most have monks that live there; all have a main Buddha shrine. Bangkok has over 400 Wats. So Wats become very much like cathedrals in Europe, you can only see so many before they all start looking the same.

Jerry took several pictures, only a few are posted here. After the palace and Wat he headed for Chote Chit. This is a local favorite among Thai people. It is suppose to be some of the best food in Thailand and very cheap. We found it relatively easily, but it was closed. I did not even think about something being closed on a Sunday. Since this place was closed we went back to the pier and headed up river to another local street food (the type in a building with a few tables) place. This was called Roti Mataba. The food was good, not overly spicy and about 6 dollars for both of us. I had a coke, a coke never tasted so good; the humidity is overwhelming, not St. Louis is August bad, but bad enough.

After lunch we went back to the hotel for pool-thirty.

High in the Sky

That evening before going to dinner, we went up to the Sky Bar. This is located I our hotel on the 64 floor. It is an outdoor bar, but not just any out door bar, it is basically this circle on the corner of the top of the hotel, with nothing buy plexi class between you and a 64 floor drop to the street. We had one cocktail, $1,000 bahts or $32. This price rivals the Rainbow Room in New York, but they still win one Cosmo $23. We did not stay long, not because of the prices, but more the people, trendy young, attractive (I guess) tourists with to much money, not our type of place.

Bliss and Fish Flakes

After our drinks we went to Silom Rd. the major street by our hotel. We of course were offered tuk tuks, massages and prostitute all were easily passed on. I was however, headed to a spa for a one hour foot reflexology massage (250 bahts $7.5) a steal at twice the bahts. Since my feet are the first thing to go on any vacation, foot massages have become a must on any vacation. But a foot massage in Thailand is like no other. One hour of bliss and they hit all the right pressure points, so the rest of you de-stresses as well.

While I relaxed Jerry went shopping for some light weight pants. He purchased two pair, but of course they don’t make my size here no one is big they are all small. In any event they were nice pants and Jerry will enjoy them. After the massage we had dinner in Silom village. I had a spicy fish salad; we shares spring roles, some curry and phad thai. All was good but DO NOT ever have a spicy fish salad unless you like funky dried spicy fish flakes. Very bad taste left in your mouth for an hour.

After dinner we returned home and retired all before 11. The humidity really takes a toll.

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