The way that Krabi is often reffered to you would think thatit is a beach destination, instead it is a jump off intersection for people heading on two Kho Phi Phi, Ray Lei, Ao namg and several other favorites. The journey their was by tuk tuk, boat, coach and mini bus, on one of the breraks for change of transport i got talking to two english Ladies in their 50's who were travelling around thailand, as we rolled into Krabi they advised that we would have to get a tuk tuk to the coastal resort of Ao Nang, i asked what it was like they said it was reminiscent of beach towns back home with a string of tourist shops and a Mcdonnalds. With thoughts of the nightmarish Kho San road in mind i opted to stay in sleepy Krabi.
I checked into a hotel, air con a must as i was exhausted and needed a good sleep and went for a wonder. The streets we empty with just the occasional thai or westerner walking around, on the river bank their was a collection of ramshackle food stalls with the locals and a splattering of westerners woofing down freshly prepared
food. iwas was glad to be off the tourist route yes Westerners passed through but the tow had not been over run and it appeared that they had not sold their sole to the dollar. i finally felt like i was in Thailand, the Hellos were friendly, not 'hello my friend let me lighten your wallet'. I walked back up to what i guess would be called the main drag, my two year old lonely planet suggested that their was one one western bar, called 'the old west, that was usually busy with backpackers, however they were now maybe 6 or 7, from the trendy looking cafe 38, and the standard bob marley bar and irish bar. Perhaps their sole just had not been purchased as i think that it was up for sale, however the problem the multiplication of western bars undoubtedly set up due to the profits of The Old West was that there simply was not he trade on the streets, so instead of one pub with 30 people in it you had 7 bars with 4 in each. To my shame after my joy of finding a 'real' Thai city i went to the irish bar
and watched the Lions play South Africa. We lost. The staff were really friendly, chatty and attentive, but then they could be there were 4 of them to 5 customers. The next day i slept in and set off in search of a pharmacy, i had fallen over on my last day in Koh Toa and hurt my wrist, i took it as a slight sprain bu it was starting to hurt more and i feared a fracture, i figured that i would strap it up and give it a couple of days, by day3 or 4 it stops hurting its a sprain if its gets worse a fracture. took more of a wonder around town there was not much to see it just a provincial city, there was a temple which took about 5 minutes to walk around and warranted about 3 photos. At the harbour i was going to book my ticket out of krabi to Phi for the next day, but then i noticed a four island tour the next day which i thought could be fun and booked it, Phi Phi can wait a day. In the evening i strolled down to the harbour and tucked
into some phad thai with the locals while being eating alive by mosquitos. then to my shame back to the irish bar to watch the 3rd/ 4th place play off between Spain and South africa for the frankly worthless Confederations cup. South Africa scored first and always backing the underdog i cheered, much to the puzzlement of the waitress who asked why was i supporting the team plating SA yesterday but cheering SA to day. She also said that the final was on at 12.30 and that although the bar would be closed if i wanted to watch it we could have a lock in. So ok, im in an irish bar, but i am meeting genuine Thai people, i had to decline as i had an early start for the island tour.
The four island tour took us to Tup island, poda island, chicken island and pranang Cave. The first three islands were joined together by a sand bank and you could easily walk from one to another. After a walk around i picked up a snorkel and mask and waded into the shallow water which was teaming with fish. The water was shallow enough for me to
sit on a small rock with my head in the water looking at the fish as they swam past. i noticed that i had made a friend and one fish was hovering between my legs, i moved my hands around and he swam around my legs i even touched him. then he swam away, a minute later and he was back between my legs, i must have played with him for 10 minutes, this was really unusual as normally they swim away the minute you show ant interest. we got on the boat and sailed around to the other side of the island where there were monkeys which people were feeding. the water was a little deeper and me and a few of the others from the boat went for a swim, when a choral of blue and yellow stripped fish surrounded me, then swam around the others then back to me, the water was thick with them held my hands above my head while they swam around my body, i put my hands down into the water which was so thick with fish i touched loads of them, and a few bit me. Then off to our final stop where they is supposed to be a magical cave, which i didnt see, although there were some impressive stalactites, a posh looking hotel and more monkeys. which people were again feeding, i think the monkey are so used to being fed they are half tame, and politely take the food on offer. Then back to Krabi , where i booked my tickets for Phi Phi and also priced up flights to Kualar Lumpar and bali, the lady in the tourist infomation center who did this called up all the companies and asked about a host of fifferent dates, despite the fact that she knew that there was no sale here for her as it was all so random, she was just genuinely happy to help.
As i walked back into the hotel the chap on reception said to me 'you stay here five nights' 'no three' i had payed for two, but owed him for tonight, and was about to pay when he said 'ok' and disappeared. i dedcided to see how this pans out.
I headed back to the night market for some food in the open air next to the river banck while the mossies feasted on me. then on for couple of G&T's at the Old West with some westerners i had met. When i arrived back at my hotel there was no power in my room, no lights, no hot water, no fan, no air conditioning. i walked out to the reception area, it was deserted, they had all gone to bed, i guessed that they had turned of the power as i had not payed, if they can turn it off then i can turn it on, i waled down the hall way and found a junction box, where one switch was facing a different way to the others, i flipped it, and there was light, not to mention air conditioning. when i woke up in the morning i went back to the junction box and turned the power back off, then strolled into reception with by back pack on my back the women there, squalled 'you must pay last night'. i smilled and replied that this was not a problem, how ever my room had no power last night, and although i did not mind paying something i was not paying for all. she argued about the a/c so i took her to the room and showed her that there was no power, she walked down to the junction box and flipped the switch that i had turned on and off again and then turned it back on, she stood there quite proud that my room now had power, shook my head, thats fine now but this did not work last night, she said that she would drop my room rate from 350bht to 300bht, i shook my head, and pointed at there price list, a room with ac is 350, without its 150, 'ok 250' i tapped the sign with my finger, her shoulders slouched she gave up, 'ok 150'. Yes for the first time ever in Thailand i outscammed the scammers. Victory.
i enjoyed Krabi, the peace and quiet, the me time, time to sort out bits and peices and a few days for my wrist to heel, but 3 days is more than enough.