Unparalleled horizons

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"You hope, and you dream. But you never believe that something's gonna happen for you. Not like it does in the movies. And when it actually does, you want it to feel different, more visceral, more real. I was waiting for it to hit me." - Richard in THE BEACH

Just when I thought that this trip could not get any better, it somehow does.

After Cambodia, I was fully content with anything thrown my way. I felt like I had seen and experienced enough to keep my mind and memories flowing for years. So when I decided to head south to the ilsands of Thailand, it was simply out of geographical convenience. I really wasn't thinking, hoping or anticipating anything at all. In fact, contrary to my usual habits, I kept my Lonely Planet research to a bare minimum.

After speaking to a few backpackers, it was clear that the general movement was to head South to the island of Ko Pan Gnang for the infamous Full Moon Party on November 5th. Coincidentally, it just happens that I would be in that part of the world around that time...Hmmmm??? I thought, why the hell not? Plus, I had heard enough crazy stories to develop a curious interest to check it out for myself.

So after a quick layover in Bangkok to recharge the batteries and to load up on copious amounts of Pad Thai and other street delicacies (no, I'm not talking about Lady Boys!), a bunch of us hopped right back on an onvernight bus, heading to the South East Coast.

On a side note, apart from a few spectacular temples, some good night life and other deviant acts of entertainment (I'll let your imagination take care of that one), Bangkok, as far as I'm concerned, is void of any substantial interest. It's loud, dirty and pales iin comparison to the treasures that lie a few miles away in all directions. It serves more as a point of departure and arrival rather than an actual destination. To me anyway...

14 hours later, we finally get to the Coast and we're told to transfer to a boat to get to our final destination. Tired, weary and anxious, we eventuall land on Ko Pan Gnang, home to hundreds of tropical sandy beaches and the mecca for all night raves and the elusive Full Moon Party. I check in my Bungalow, which sits modestly on a remote part of the island, isolated from the Mayhem. An ideal location, as far as I'm concerned, to explore the place, and yet be within striking distance to the action.

The day of the Party really felt like the calm before the storm. I met a couple guys from Boston and we spent the day cruising around the island on scooters, checking out some waterfalls, hikes and hopping around from beach to beach.

Then, consciously deciding to put our vehicules as well as any other means of transportation requiring manual operations away, we head to the party. A few Margaritas along the way, we eventually score a ride on the back of this local's pick up truck. When I say "back," I don't mean back seat. I am literally hanging on to the roof of this pick up truck, feet partially on top of the back bumper of this truck filled with an overwhelming feeling of anticipation (albeit, slightly inhibrited anticipation at that)! No idea what we're getting ourselves into! Once again, abandoning all hopes of self preservation in quest of tropical freedom.

What a sight! Over 10,000 people bouncing around the beach from one DJ booth to the next, indulging in all kinds of substances, sounds and sights... going absolutely nuts. It's impossible to properly describe the level of energy felt on that beach on that particular night.

This is without a doubt the largest and longest beach party in the world! There is little written history about the event, but apparently in 1992 a group of tourists decided on the night of the full moon that Haad Rin, on Ko Pan Gnang, was the best location in the world to view the moon. They organized a party to celebrate the full moon. The following month the party expanded to the other nearby Haad Rin bungalows. Now the party attracts as many as 12,000 party people from all over the world each month!

So right around 4 am, my legs and ears couldn't take it anymore. I had danced from one booth to the next; fist pumping to some deep house beats, swaying around to island reggae grooves and everything/anything in between. I was done for!

Much to my chagrin, I reached into my pocket and found only 80 bahts (around 2 US dollars). I forgot to mention that I had left my wallet and important possessions back at the hotel (having been warned numerous times that it wasn't safe to take anything valuable to the Party). Usually, you could get a ride to the other side of the island for about 100 bahts, but not during the Fool Moon Party - no way. All the prices go up about 50%. I thought, for sure, I'd have to sleep somewhere on the beach. No big deal; it was already close to sunrise anyway. But, I thought I'd ask, just in case...

First dude I see offers to take me for 200 bahts. I tell him my story and with a little bargaining, I eventually find myself riding on the back of this guy's scooter, watching the sun come up and thinking back about all the craziness. I make it home alive. What a night!

So I survived the Full Moon party; relatively unscathed. Despite the expected hangover, the next day was amazing, spent lounging around the beach, with an occasional dip in the pool, remininscing with the Boston guys about the madness from the night before. To put the perfect ending touch to the day, I got a 1/2 hour Thai massage for less than 3 dollars (no happy ending Bex, don't worry) and witnessed one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen. Aw-mazing!

After Ko Pan Gnang, I (and my liver) felt the need to chill out and explore more of the South, away from the craziness. The West coast seemed like the perfect place to do so. So right off the boat, I buy a one way ticket for Krabi (a perfect launching pad for a number of picture perfect, empty beaches).

I have to say, the Thais have a general acute sense of entrepreuneuralism. For example, they will sell you a long distance bus ticket even when the bus is full! As the living proof of such shady operations, I can honsetly say that riding on a 6 hour bus ride, spent standing up and eventually sitting on the floor, sandwiched between bags of pungent groceries and various shapes and sizes of bare feet, is not the most ideal and pleasurable way to travel. But, as the Thais often say "SAME SAME" It gets you to your destination all the same...

Krabi is a great little fishing town, with many wonderful food options. I lucked out and met an English couple (the guy being of Thai descent and spoke the language fluently). Stoked to finally be off the bus, and to celebrate the newly elected democratic senate and congress (thanks to all of you who voted btw), we ventured straight into the night market and ordered (I should say he ordered) a feast of genuine and extremely cheap thai dishes.

The next morning, I set off on a solo mission to find a remote island to escape and chill out for a couple of days. Ko Lanta provided the perfect setting for my wishes. Off the main tourist route, this island is truly beautiful and still (though not for long) relatively undevelopped. I sayed at a place called the Sanctuary - small beach side A-frame huts, equipped with hammocks, mosquito nets above the beds, and the best part: the bathroom (private with fully functioning toilet and shower) was literally outside, in the open (see picture)...I'll spare you the details, but it was a very liberating experience all together!

Fully recharged after 2 days in Ko Lanta, i decided to make my way to the world renown island of Ko Phi Phi, which has been featured in many movies (James Bond and The Beach among others) This place is absolutely mind-blowing - crystal clear emerald green water, dramatic cliffs and luscious forests all around, white powdered sand. I was straight out of a postcard.

I have been fortunate enough to see many beautiful beaches around the world, but Ko Phi Phi has got to be one of the most sereal place I have ever seen. But, as with many natural gems, it comes with a price. The island is outrageously expensive (not by Western standars, but definitely in comparison to the rest of the country).

I spoke to many of the locals and tourists who all insisted on how badly the island had been hit by the December 2004 Tsunami.

Here's how bad it really was:

After the Tsunami, approximately 70% of the buildings on the island had been destroyed. By the end of July 2005, an estimated 850 bodies had been recovered, and an estimated 1,200 people were still missing. The total number of fatalities is still unkown. Of Phi Phi residents, 104 surviving children had lost one or both parents.

Walking up and down the small island, I'd see many pictures of the damages (before and after) as well as several newspaper clippings all around various restaurants and shops. I couldn't help but think of all the human loss and how unfair it is that the most precarious places and people are most always the ones who fall victim to such atrocious catastrophies.

On the positive side, the post-tsunami recovery efforts were incredible. It was the most important (in terms of money raised as well as human help) act of global solidarity ever recorded. The pictures were truly moving.

Even though, it hasen't even been two years yet and the resulting damages are still somewhat palpable, Ko Phi Phi is still one of the most beautiful island I have ever seen. So beautiful in fact, that I fell asleep on the beach and almost missed my boat back to the mainland.

But here I am now, sunburnt and in complete euphoria! Unparalled horizons indeed...

"And me, I still believe in paradise. But now at least I know it's not some place you can look for, 'cause it's not where you go. It's how you feel for a moment in your life when you're a part of something, and if you find that moment... it lasts forever... " The Beach

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Photos

View from the top
Hikking in Ko Pan Gnang

Full Moon Mayhem
I can't take credit for this picture as I didn't have my camera (OR MONEY) on me!

Ko Phi Phi
One of the many beaches

Beach duos
Hard at work/play

Ko Lanta
A hard life...