Day 77-78: Kho Pha-Ngan, Thailand

---

Monday, April 13th

We got a scooter and scooted north, accompanied by Rafi, a British guy who stays at the same resort. We went to scout for a place to stay near a few snorkeling spots and he just wanted to tag along to see more of the island.

While we were riding, people all along the roads would soak us with buckets of water, super-soakers and hoses. At first we thought that it was to get us to buy super-soakers and join in the fun. Later we were told that today is Thai New Year. Some say they believe the water washes away your sins or bad karma or something while others say that the water is intended to cool you down because it's usually the hottest day of the year.

We reached Haad Yao, a small bay area on the north-west coast, and found the backpackers we were looking for. It was too expensive but the dive shop there offered diving that was "only" double what we paid in Vietnam (not three or four times more expensive like on Koh Samui). They also reported seeing Whale Sharks on more than one occasion in the last week. This could be good. We walked around the area and found a nice affordable place very close to the beach. We decided to move there the following day.

We scooted further north, right into a rain storm. Soon we were drenched but we pressed on in the hope that it would pass quickly. It didn't. We took shelter at a restaurant that was closed (it being new year and all) but after a while decided to head back to base. Back into the pouring rain we went.

All our camera gear were with us so we were a little worried that it would get wet. However, we had little option but to continue working our way back south. After we cleared a ridge, the rain magically stopped but that was not the end of our wetness for the day.

By now the alcohol was starting to have an effect on all the party-goers and they were out in full force next to the roads. Armed with buckets, super-soakers, hoses and tins with a mixture of fragrant white power and water, they would stand in the road trying to make us stop so they could splash us. We didn't mind the splashing but we weren't about to stop. At one of these "ambushes" the guy refused to get out of the road and we very nearly ran him over. The closer we got to town the crazier it got. There were people everywhere, dancing in the streets and causing traffic jams. There was even a fire truck using its fire hose to fill big containers on the back of pick-up trucks that would then drive around splashing people. It's said that more people die on this day due to accidents than any other time of the year. We can believe that!

We made it back safely, took a swim to wash of all the white power on us, then had lunch. We were exhausted. It was an insane morning. We tried to take a nap but for some reason couldn't.

The rest of the afternoon was spent by the pool. Later Rafi joined us and we sat chatting the evening away.

Today's highlights:
1. Thai New Year super soak.
2. Scooting around the island in the rain.
3. Successful scouting expedition.

Tuesday, April 14th

After a strategy meeting this morning we came up with a plan for the rest of our stay on Koh Pha-Ngan. We'd rent our scooter for another three days, pack our small bags with all we'd need for those days and stash our big bags at the resort. This way we can move about freely and it works out cheaper than arranging other transport to take us north. We can then return and grab our big bags en-route to the pier when moving on to Koh Tao.

Rafi had had an accident with his scooter the day before. In his attempts to avoid getting splashed he'd lost control of his scooter and it scratched a bit when it went skidding over the tarmac. He had to pay a sizable amount to cover the cosmetic damage. He was also moving north so we decided to help him out. All the taxi drivers were still sleeping off their new year hangovers so there was no public transport running during the morning and it was 9km to his new place. Since we have the scooter for the next three days Ferdi gave him (and his luggage) a lift to his new place.

Ferdi returned with our trusty steed filled with petrol and we headed to Haad Yao. We booked into the place we wanted. The resort is still under construction so we got a very good price on a very nice bungalow. We also booked and paid for two dives the next day! We're super excited! We just couldn't come all the way here and not dive.

After lunch we went to exchange our old books for new ones, then headed to our nearest 7/11. We stocked up on groceries to help our suffering budget. In Vietnam it was cheaper to eat at restaurants. In Thailand it's much cheaper to eat from 7/11 or the local market. We got water, bread, honey, chips and margarine. This will help us save heaps on lunches while we're here.

It was hotter than hell and we returned to our room soaked in sweat, all but used up. We ran a cold bath (yes! We finally have one again!) and had a soak to try and cool off. The ocean was no help cause it's so hot it wouldn't make any difference. After the soak a nap was the next logical move. Talita managed to nap the afternoon away but Ferdi had no such luck.

Since we'll be diving the following day Ferdi had to shave his mustache. He was looking a little woolly so we went for a haircut. Now here's a tip, and this is common sense, we know, but never ever ever do anything unless you know the price before hand. We ended up paying a king's ransom because how much can a haircut cost? The answer is, as much (and we mean MUCH) as the hairdresser wants. She might be small but she works with scissors everyday. Better not to challenge her on her own turf (we might ambush her like a pack of cowardly coyotes later).

For dinner Talita got a "veggie" burger with a nice thick juicy piece of beef. Needless to say that got sent back in a jiffy. Being vegetarian in Asia is not for the faint of heart. Eventually after speaking to the English owner she got a lovely tofu burger. Success!

Today's highlights:
1. Moved with light packs to new hotel.
2. Booked a diving trip.
3. Shopping trip for supplies to help our budget.

---

Photos

Scouting
This hill feels much steeper when you're on a scooter

Beach hotel scout
Haad Yao

Dark clouds coming
Haad Yao

Relaxing by the pool
Rafi doing yoga in the background

Comments

[Melinda]

Pink Sunset & Moss Rock!
Ek is soooo bly julle sien nog hoe mooi alles om julle is! Julle het al 2 kitties gehad van julle weg is en ek het steeds nie eers 1 nie!! Nou beter julle net nie voor my 'n whaleshark sien nie - but if you do break the news gently!! Hugs julle outjies!!