Chiang Dao 15th-18th July

By Sunday we felt that we had visited all that we wanted to in Chiang Mai and were a little bored so Mike suggested that we travel further north for a few days and possibly do some trekking. We found Chiang Dao in the Lonely Planet (once again it proved invaluable) and it sounded very enticing with opportunities to go cycling and trekking.

On Tuesday 15th July we caught a local bus to Chiang Dao, 1.5 hours north of Chiang Mai. We checked into Malee's Nature Lovers Bungalows, staying in a thatch-and-brick bungalow complete with an en-suite. Malee was a middle aged Thai lady with a big smile and great enthusiasm for nature and Chiang Dao. We arranged to go cycling and Malee booked us onto a one day trek to a local hot spring.

Tham Chiang Dao Cave Complex

After a light lunch and a little nap, we walked to the cave complex (the main reason that many tourists visit Chiang Dao) 1.3km from Malee's place. Once there we paid to hire a guide with a gas lanturn. We explored 3 caverns with our guide, Tham Mah (735m long), Tham Kaew (474m) and Tham Nam (660m). We turned up to the cave expecting to walk in and were surprised by all the tight gaps that we had to squeeze through. As we squeezed through one gap our guide told us that sometimes all the bats that live in the caves sometimes fly through the gap all at once - we prayed that it didn't happen to us!

Our guide didn't speak much English, but did know some of the basics and would constantly stop to point out a structure to photograph. I think we took nearly 30 photos ranging from 'waterfalls' to 'elephants' and even a chicken-like rock formation!

Our bike ride

On Wednesday we hired mountain bikes and were looking forward to an easy ride throughout the surrounding valley. Five minutes in, we realised that the bikes were not as good as they should be - the gears had a mind of their own, our handlebars were too short and at any moment we thought the pedles would come off.

Our first port of call was a temple, but on approach to the entrance we thought 'do we really need to see another?' and so gave it a miss. We then cycled to the main high street in Chiang Dao and picked up a picnic on our way through. After that we followed Malee's recommended route which took in small villages, paddy fields and lots of panoramic views.

Our journey back included one mammoth hill which upon reaching the top we felt like we were going to collapse with heat exhaustion. We were relieved when we eventually saw signs for the guesthouse.

Trekking

On Thursday we went on a trek with a French couple who were also staying at Malee's. We had a guide called Mr Moon or Moon as he liked to be called who came equipt with a large machete!

At the start of the walk we picked up our trekking bamboo sticks and proceeded down a steep embankment for about half an hour dodging low branches, swatting away mosquitoes and trying not to slip on all the leaf litter and mud. At the bottom we reached a waterfall and Moon said 'we now take shower'. We had to scramble up to a plunge pool and my foot slipped off a rock as I tried to cross the small river at the bottom of the fall screaming as I did so. Mike and Moon were there to help me though and we all managed to reach the waterfall.

After the falls it seemed like it was all uphill. Moon stopped often to pick wild mushrooms and bamboo shoots on his wife's request for their dinner. A stray dog joined us on our climb and stayed with us until we got to Moon's house for lunch. The dog was made to feel unwelcome by Moon's own dogs, but soon exerted his authority and a few petit fights broke out.

After a tasty noodle lunch (not too dissimilar to supernoodles) we headed to the hot springs. We walked through an orchard, picking logans (like lycees, but sweeter) as we went as well as a wood full of long grass and nettles where Mike and I wished we had worn trousers. We then past a farm full of buffalo, a school and a village before reaching the springs. They were a little disappointing consisiting of 2 swamp-like bubbly ponds which smelt of rotten eggs due to the sulphur dioxide. The water was being run off into concrete baths which were full of local villagers so even if we had wanted to go in we could not have at the time.

In the evening Malee had made a delicious buffet of Thai red curry, stir-fried vegetables, fried potatoes, rice and sweet and sour vegetables which we enjoyed. This was followed by fresh fruit and rice cakes.

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