Long-tailed Boats & The Golden Triangle

After our memorable hill tribe trek we went back to the Lisu village for a cold shower. Then we were tipped into the back of a pick-up truck, along with our Canadian friends, and taken off to rejoin Ot and Thah Nom. The Canadians had intended to spend another day trekking with Asa, but wisely chose life instead ;o)

Ot was a little apprehensive after the disagreeable parting we had at Asa's, but within minutes there were warm smiles all round and, if anything, we all became a little closer. She asked about our experience on the trek and was visibly shocked to hear how badly it had teetered on the edge of disaster. I refrained from commenting that it wouldn't have happened had she been with us ... it wasn't necessary.

After a brief look at a weaving village we drove down to Thah Ton to pick up a long-tail boat to Chiang Rai. The ride down the Mae Kok river was exhilarating! The river was flowing quite rapidly and we would often have to weave around uprooted trees mid-stream. Long-tails buzzed up and down river in both directions, several on the verge of sinking, with their occupants bailing frantically as they headed to the bank.

Jan was especially appreciative of the boat ride: After the Asa ordeal she was just relieved to sprawl in the bottom of the boat and before long a gentle "zzzzz" of contentment was heard above the "buzzzz" of the boat ;o)

The beauty of riding down the river, rather than by road, is that people on the banks are oblivious to your passing: They bathe and do their laundry at the river's edge, fish or work plantations on the banks undisturbed by your passing. We sped by small Muser and Yao hill tribe villages, larger settlements with well established buildings and temples, and workers tending extensive fields of crops. After some considerable time buzzing down the river numbness and cramp settled in, so we stopped at a hot-springs to stretch limbs and take liquid refreshment. Then back on the boat once more, heading into choppier waters.

The bank-side scenery began to change - less agriculture and more trees. We marvelled at large jungle-covered limestone hills on the near horizon ... until they suddenly disappeared in a grey blanket! It was time for the dreaded afternoon storm and we were in an open-sided boat without waterproofs :o( The rain cascaded down while Ot and Jan cowered under seat cushions. Being of "outsized proportions" I had to take what came! Fortunately we very quickly arrived in Chiang Rai and pulled up outside our riverside hotel, the Rimkok Resort. After Asa's it seemed like a palace, with a lovely comfortable bed and a balcony overlooking lush gardens and the river. In no time at all we were both refreshed by a long, hot shower and had found clean, dry but crumpled clothing in our rucksacks.

We joined Ot again and headed off to the night market. Jan loves markets and this one was a joy: We sat and had refreshments while watching a fashion show. It was a bit like watching traditional dance routines, but these gorgeous girls were modelling traditional/modern Thai clothing while moving to Thai pop! Then we toured the many art stalls where I was fascinated to see realistic model insects being fashioned from grasses and stems. Ot was amused by my mesmerisation (throughout our Doi Inthanon trip she and Thah Nom had teased me about my love of insects) and asked me which were the most realistic models.

We moved on and came to a bar where a gorgeous Thai girl was waiting to serve us with Gin and Tonic and Thai Whiskey. As we sipped our drinks the girl was idly playing with a set of dominoes ... she smiled at me and asked if I wanted to play! Well, I suspected there must be a scam here somewhere, but I took up the offer and we had a couple or three games and another round of drinks. She was utterly charming and I was really struggling to spot where the scam was coming from. It didn't! When we were ready to move on she smiled sweetly and said goodbye. All she had wanted was a game of dominoes!

After a great nights sleep and a good breakfast, we met up with Ot and Thah Nom and headed out for a bit of sightseeing. Spirits were high - Ot always seemed more at ease when it was just us, with no Randy to defer to. We trooped round an opium museum, where I dutifully bought some opium pipes as gifts, before heading on to Mae Sai. Mae Sai is the most northerly village in Thailand and lies on the Mae Sai river. We stood at the end of the bridge which forms the border crossing between Burma and Thailand, but only Burmese or Thai people are permitted to cross. Finally we took a high-speed boat ride along the Mekong river, skimming along the banks of Laos before swinging round and back to Thailand.

Highlight of the day? After the boat ride Ot took us to a restaurant suspended on a platform over the river. We gorged ourselves on yet another brilliant meal, Ot doing her usual trick of slipping chillies on my plate (giving me the excuse to drink plenty of Singhas). Then she smiled coyly and said "Now for your dessert!" The waitress scurried up, carrying a cardboard box containing a beautiful birthday cake, complete with candles. And if I wasn't sufficiently choked by this, she gave me a present .... a collection of the insects I had been admiring in the night market!

To be honest, I have no recollection of what followed - we drove back to Chiang Mai tired but really happy, actually looking forward to seeing the Ping again! Then Ot took a 'phone call: Randy wanted to take us out for a meal and on to a nightclub that evening. How could we refuse? So, no relaxing evening but instead a shower, change into decent clothing and straight back out again.

The restaurant was first class and the food divine. Best of all, we were re-united with the wonderful Da :o) The night club was probably one step too far ... but the following morning was free for recovery from exhaustion before we flew to Mae Hong Son. While we watched the floor show Randy arranged for us to have head-massages, but this was no Indian Head Massage - it was torture! Finally, while Randy and I sat drinking, Ot, Da and Jan headed for the dance floor for yet another giggle-fest :o)

When we eventually got back to our room at the Mae Ping there was one last surprise : a birthday gift from Saga!

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