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Published: October 11th 2011
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Set amidst the forrested mountains of the north,Chiang Mai is noticeably cooler than most of Thailand, not just in temperature but also in vibe. It's hard to believe that this is the second biggest city here as it has none of hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Instead of malls there are wats(temples) and instead of suits, saffron robes. After hectic Vietnam spending a few nights here was much needed.
Not that I was not busy, in fact there is so much here to preoccupy a traveler. From adventure sports, to cooking classes, to shopping, to family friendly fun, those are all here and more. No wonder it's such a popular destination even for Thais.
Walking around the old center itself was a highlight. I spent a couple of evenings trying to see some of the temples (there are around 300 at last count). You'd think that at this point in my trip I would be templed out. I'm getting there, but there is something about stepping into a quiet sacred space and witnessing the devotion of others.
Most notable of the wats I saw were Wat Chian Man(at almost 800 years old it is the oldest here) and Wat Phra Sign
( with tranquil grounds that were pleasant to stroll in). Aside from admiring the architecture it was interesting to just watch the monks in action. At Phra Sign they were decorating the temple. At another wat they were moving a statue. They were laughing and seemed light hearted with even the most menial chores.
That night I went to the night market. It was huge and predictable. Same t-shirts and souvenirs. The prices did seem better than the Patpong night market in Bangkok but I did not buy much as I had more days of carrying my backpack.
My second day here I signed up for an adventure trek. There is a bewildering array of tours here, most incoporate a visit to a hill tribe (there are many cultural minorities in the area), elephant riding and soft adventure sports. We trekked through a jungle to get to a water fall. It was a fairly easy trek for about an hour with several stream crossings. It was a choice between balancing on makeshift bridges or just wading in the water. My favorite part of the day was white water rafting. Due to all the rain the currents were stronger. Of course
we all got wet and one of the girls got thrown overboard. Fun times!
The day ended with a visit to a tribal village. We visited the Akha people who were originally came from China before settling in the northern hills of Thailand. Those looking for an enlightening interaction with these tribes will be disappointed. Our interaction was limited to a few older women dressed in traditional gear and trying to sell us souvenirs. I learned more about these people from watching an episode of
Globetrekker . It's very sad that they have become such an attraction but probably profit the least from these tours.
While I'm on my soap box, I should tell you about a tribe I purposely did not visit. The
long neck Karen are very popular with tour groups here. I'm sure you've seen pictures of tribes women who elongated their neck with brass rings. Unfortunately without these rings they cannot support their head and are bed bound. This inhumane practice was dying out until tourism sparked a revival.
The following day was one of the most memorable day of my trip yet. A whole day spent at the
Baan Chang Elephant Camp . Started by a former elphant trainer aka
mahout,
it is a rescue for wounded and unwanted elephants. They pride themselves in being very humane and ethical. Nonetheless the elephants have to earn their keep (they eat all day) and for a few thousand Bahts (about $45) tourists can learn about elephant behavior and get up close and personal these loveable creatures.
The day starts with a lecture from the owner about their mission. After suiting up in
mahout gear ( low crotch baggy pants), we got to feed the elephants with what seemed like tons of bananas. It was a very stranged and wet feeling sticking my hand in its mouth but after a while you get used to the slobber. This was followed by a lecture from the head trainer on how to mount, dismount and the basic commands of go, turn and stop (very improtant). While at first I saw riding on an elephant's neck as a recipe for breaking my own, it quickly turned into a really exhilarating experience. Being almost 15 feet high,trying to get used to the lumbering giant beneath me and gripping its neck with all the power my legs could muster, it was an unforgettable thrill.
About an hour of riding
and we were back in the camp. It was bath time for the elephants and time for us to get really dirty. We waded into a small pond and were handed pails and a scrub brush. Everyone was laughing and had a fun time, the elephants rolling around and splashing us with water. Of course this was all under the close supervision and assistance of the
mahouts.
So I leave Chiang Mai with many wonderful memories. It's one of those places that I can see myself returning to. It has so much to offer: a relaxed atmosphere, culture, art, adventure, friendly people. The only thing lacking is a beach. For that I head to the south of Thailand, to Phuket and Ko Phi Phi.
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Laura Reed
non-member comment
Love those pictures, it looks gorgeous, and the elephant is so small and portable-looking!