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Published: April 26th 2011
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Pottery for sale
I was told these pots were handmade and available for between 500-1200 baht ($20 - $40) I have never actually ridden a real motorcycle as I've always had a sneaking suspicion I would get myself killed with that much horsepower. So I have settled for.................a scooter. I know it doesn't seem to fit American ideals of freedom on the road. But I am not in the US and the scooter, for many people in the countryside, does symbolize a sense of independence. Although not 'luxurious' like a car, it is no buffalo, tractor or bicycle. The motorbike facilitates social mobility and a sense of freedom that is clearly evident when you see young teens buzzing around any provincial town in Thailand. Or when you see entire families on one bike. On my recent scooter trip throught the mountains, my 100cc Honda Wave was more than up to the task. Although it struggled up some of the steep inclines, it glided most of the way.
From Chiang Mai city, it is remarkable how quickly one escapes the stuffiness of town and almost instantly pops into a different world. Narrow and winding roads carry you through valleys full or rice fields and villages while snakelike mountain roads lead you through some of the most pleasant vistas in Thailand.
The Chiang Mai-Samoeng-Mae Sa loop is something every visitor to Chiang Mai should seriously consider....especially by bike. Scooter, motorcycle, mountain bike, it doesn't matter! The whole loop is probably about 80-90km in total and can take anywhere from three or four hours to all day.
I had intended to get up at 4:15am on Sunday to catch the sunrise in the mountains (about a 40 minute motorbike ride from my apartment in Chiang Mai). But I slept in and left at 6:30am. It was still early enough to catch a breathtaking morning mist that didn't lift for several hours. My motorbike buzzed along, the breeze rejuvenated my spirits and the natural beauty of the scenery injected me with the kind of peaceful contentment I am always searching for.
The road to Samoeng is loaded with a kind of pastoral commercialism as homestays, resorts and various 'nature' related activities line the road through the valleys and mountains. It has a certain charm to it, for now. I remember one gas station along the way had become electronic since I had passed about four or five months ago. At that time, the 'gas station' consisted of a hut with a
yellowish rubber hose that had been attached to a big gas can.
My first stop, other than gas, was in the town of Samoeng (about 50 minutes from Chiang Mai city). I picked up some sticky rice and fermented pork wrapped in banana leaves for lunch and took a look at the local strawberry fields. I spoke with a local man in the 108 convenience store. "Good morning!," he greeted me and proceeded to ask me the usual questions. Where are you from? What are you looking for here? Do you like Thai girls?.....etc. But after this, he told me (practicing his English all the way) that his job was cleaning all the toilets in the municipal area. He also told me that the strawberries were unavailable for picking. (too much water I think he said) He was in the mood for chat and I wanted to move on.
There were many turnoffs along the way through the mountains leading to various villages including a number of different hill tribes. I decided on going to the Khun Khaan National park instead which was about 15km from town. My first stop was the Mae Saab Cave. It is not
a spectacular cave or anything but it is pretty and the forest around it is kept up by a team of Thai government employees. Fruit is in the trees, birds sing, and cicadas provide the sounds of nature in surround sound. I was the only visitor there. Unlike most places like this in Thailand, there was no entrance fee........a truly public space.
I spoke at length with an older Thai woman who was in charge of keeping the grounds clean (along with two other young Thai men). We talked about the usual things, like with the guy in the store. She told me she had once lived in Bangkok some ten years ago but had settled here in this peaceful utopia. Her village was right around the corner so it was convenient as well. She introduced me to some wild mangoes (tiny little things) that could be made into jam and invited me to come back and pick them sometime. We talked and talked some more but after exploring the cave I was anxious to see more of the park.
Soon after leaving the cave I came across a dirt road with a sign for a chedi on
a mountaintop. I figured there might be a nice view from up there so I pulled in. There was a lone man there lighting a fire for what appeared to be his lunch. We greeted each other tentatively and finally got talking. He told me the chedi was just about finished and had been in the works for four or five years. It was being built by the same village the woman I just met was from. It was called the "Peacock Relic Chedi." Jum indicated that peacocks had once roamed in these parts, but not anymore. It was a cordial but rather dull conversation. He let me take some pictures before I moved on my way. I gave him my pork lunch as a thank you. He seemed to appreciate that being all alone on this day.
I soon had lunch along a pretty lake in the mountains in a small village called Bo Gaew. Following this road further takes you to the backpacker heaven of Pai. I was told by a park ranger I could continue on this way to Chiang Mai but a local boy on a bike in Bo Gaew told me otherwise. So I
The stone says.......
When the bad is the equal to the good have your greatest excellence. When bad is equal to the good in this world endure. (something like that)
...be like a rock in tough times or something like that?
turned around and headed back to Samoeng before completing my loop back to Chiang Mai through the heavily commercial Mae Sa valley. I stopped at the Insect Farm before returning to the city.
Some of the best parts of the day were in-between stopping points. Clay pots sitting by the side of the road, misty mountains, and oddities like Christian missionary signs nailed to trees competed for my attention. Riding along by motorbike was as a good way to enjoy the experience as I could imagine at the time.
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Helen and Bob
non-member comment
We feel as if we're with you on this scooter trip outside of Chiang Mai,Zak. How fine that by talking with the locals you learned more about the sites, like the peacock chedi or the cave--altogether the mix of text and photos is very appealing. Glad to see this--keep it up. Now Let's hope this comes through, as none have so far.