I'm writing this as I prepare to leave Bangkok for what I hope to be is the much cooler Chiang Mai.
First impressions of Bangkok? First glance, the people, the weather, reminds me much of the Philippines. Or what the Philippines could be if the government spent money on building tourism. Although I have to say that the Philippines is much cleaner than it was during previous trips. Much less litter; still there, but much less.
Although Europe is used to travelers of all nationalities, there I felt I stood out.
Ni Hao. Konichiwa. Those were often said to me in passing. Forever that I am neither Chinese or Japanese. Or the fact that my skin by that time had a bit of brown tinged in with the yellow. But here in Bangkok... I feel I blend in. Just like in Manila (maybe not so much in the province, where I feel like I stand out a bit). The hawkers don't bother me as I walk by the outer temple walls. The cab drivers all ask if I'm Thai. It's almost as if I'm an outsider that has the rare opportunity to look from within. And I like that.
It's definitely a different feeling than those I felt walking through Barcelona or Paris.
Maybe this was partly due to the fact that I got to stay with a local and not at some guesthouse on Khao San Road. Initially, that was the plan. Then Kuya Arnel put me in touch with his friend, O, who quickly offered me a place to crash when she found out I was intending to stay somewhere near Khao San.
Thursday, June 29th Walking out of the airport, I was bombarded with the humidity. Didn't help I had my huge backpack on. I seriously need to re-think that backpack. It may not be full, but it's much too long for me. I quickly found a taxi, didn't bother too much about bargaining (I hadn't perfected that skill yet!), and asked them to take me to O's office. Upon arriving at O's office, I met her and dropped off my stuff in her car. I ventured out on my own, to meet with her later at Siam Square in the evening.
Okay, I said I was tired of the malls in the Philippines, but seriously, the shopping in Bangkok was fabolous.
And to top it off, I was shopping on my own, which means no one had to wait for me, which meant I could go anywhere and everywhere I dang well pleased! Ahhhh.. finally. A bit of my life in the States in SE Asia. Some independence! So naturally, I hit the malls here. I went to Siam Center and Siam Square. Siam Square is a confusing maze of similar looking side streets. Once I got out of one, I couldn't really figure out which Soi was looking at. That didn't help my already dampened sense of direction. But I think getting "lost" is the best way to find those hidden gems. At one point, I found this placed called "Mango Tango". In hindsight, it was just okay, but at that moment, all I wanted was some ice cold water and something mango, so it hit the spot. I bought the Mango Tango Sundae- mango sherbert with fresh mango and sticky rice. Mike would definitely appreciate this place. Realizing I needed a bit of caffeine, considering the all-nighter I pulled before I left Manila, I hit an internet cafe and felt brave, so I settled for a mocha with ICE!
Yeah, I know.
I eventually made it to MBK. At MBK, there were stalls where bargaining is expected. My first tries were not so good. I'm sure I could've gone lower in price, but I felt bad for squabbling over the equivalent of dollars. I just didn't realize that it's part of the culture. But as the day went on, I became noticeably better at it. But still, I feel a bit selfish and cheap for bargaining. Still doesn't stop me though! After MBK, I meet O after wandering through Siam Square to find the Starbucks she's talking about. When we do meet, she says she needs to do some shopping and takes me to... ZARA. I swear, I can never get away from that store! The store was in shambles, because of this huge sale, which made me lazy in trying to find clothes. Plus, everyone in Thailand is super-skinny and I couldn't find too many items that fit me. But I did make out with some things!
Friday, June 30th O and I get up early. She drops me off at her office so I can venture on my own. She tells me where I can
find a taxi, but being stupidly naive, I tell myself I can walk as close as I can get to Wat Pho. Ha! That didn't last long and I found a taxi to take me to the Grand Palace. Luckily, the taxi driver was very friendly and didn't scam me too much. He tried to get me to hire him to take me to the snake farm, but I said no- nicely. You always hear about those crazy stories about the taxi and tuk tuk drivers.
I was dropped off at the Grand Palace and went along with the audio tour. I took lots of pictures of many interesting structures but I wasn't as enthusiastic as I thought. Maybe it was the heat? Maybe it was the lack of sleep? Maybe I wanted to have a friend along? I could feel myself zoning out as the audio guide went on about each building in the complex. I did start to get a bit lonely when I wanted to have my picture taken. I am so not coordinated and have short arms, so my self portraits always cut something important out of the frame. After Wat Phra Kraw and the
Grand Palce, I walked over to Wat Pho. Looking at the Reclining Buddha, I actually came up with the concept of (oh my gosh!) asking someone to take my picture! It really is huge. Somehow, though, I thought it would be bigger.
Walking throughout the temple, I'm amazed at the spirituality of the Buddhist people. I'm sure there are some Buddhists out there that go through the motions of religions as mindlessly as those of other faiths, but it seems they are very devoted. I would watch them as they sat with their feet facing away from Buddha, as they would bow and offer their prayers. Speaking to a taxi driver, Peer, later that night, I tell him how peaceful the Buddhist people seem. I praise them, and he quickly asks me if I want to convert. Um no thank you. As many problems as there are with Catholicism, that's where my faith is.
I continued to roam around Wat Pho then decide to sit down and write in my journal. Fortunately, I was interrupted by Sandra from Vienna. She asks me to take her picture and we got to chatting. I walk about Wat Pho again with
her and then she leads me through the city to find where they sell bugs to eat (which we never found), where we wandered through the squatters' homes and were mistakenly taken for wanting to buy gems (we busted outta there!), and eventually made it to Khao San Road, where she was staying. We ate then took off for the Marble Temple, but it starts to get dark and we were the only ones walking. We scratched that idea and finally succumbed to taking a tuk-tuk back to Khao San for something to quench our thirst *ahem, cocktails*. Man, I thought riding in tricycles were crazy. Them tuk tuks were even crazier! I swear, the faces on the sidewalks were all a blur as we passed them. I held on so tight. When we got off, my hair was a mess. Sandra was actually dizzy! But it was fun in a sort of deathwish kind of away.
We hit the bar for some drinks. I still had to go to the Suan Lum Night Bazaar to meet O. I hesitated but still decided to go, and I'm glad I went. I definitely worked my bargaining skills there and left
with some great buys. Towards the end of the night, I was tired and realized I was arguing over the equivalent of $2. The vendor just said to me, "Oh come on." "Fine," I huffed. I mean, in the end the shirts I was haggling over cost me $3US each. It was on the way to the Night Bazaar that I met Peer, the taxi driver, who I conned into giving me a ride cheaper than what the dangerous-lokking tuk-tuk driver at Khao San offered. I'm so glad I went with Peer; we had a great conversation about where he's from (Phuket), Thai women vs. ladyboys, the Philippines and US- all in the span of the car ride there.
After buying pasalubong for the PI and US people, I found O at a bar on Sarasin Rd nearby. I eventually made the trek to Brown Sugar. It was a bar with a jazzy live band. We ended up watching the Germany vs. Argentina football match with some jazz band playing behind us. Then the second band came out and they were more of my style! It was great.
Saturday, July 1st This morning, I woke up to go
to the Chatuchak Market before I was to go to the airport. O dropped me off while she went to visit her dad in the hospital. The plan was to meet her at the hospital and get my stuff to go to the airport.
I only spent 2-3 hours at the Market, but I definitely made the most of it. I think I must have hit only 25% of it, if that. I felt like I was going around in circles, but managed to pick up some great stuff and see some cute animals for sale. Eventually, the lack of sleep from the night before did me in and I had to go. I took a taxi to the Bangpho Hospital where I met O. Due to the current situation, I told her that I could find my own way to the airport so she could deal with what was going on. SHe flagged down a taxi for me to take me to the airport where with a hug, we parted ways.
At check-in, my pack ended up being a mere 11 kg. It definitely looks like more. But that's great news as I can buy more stuff
and not have to worry about weight limitations. But can I really handle carrying any more? I guess I can't buy anything in Chiang Mai!
GuardsCan you imagine THIS guarding your front door?
Offering prayersNotice how they're wearing yellow? That's to celebrate the King. The Thai people LOVE their King. Pretty much everyone wears yellow every Monday for the whole year to honor him.
I have to what!?!I could not figure out how to maneuver myself to use this. Eventually I gave up, took this picture, and was lucky enough to find a toilet I know how to use!
YummyI can just smell all the good food.
Thirsty?I hope that's not where my ice came from!