Buddhas and Yakshas in Bangkok's Ko Ratanakosin


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September 7th 2008
Published: September 7th 2008
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Saturday, September 6th , 2008



Greetings from beautiful Thailand! Our adventure started on Thursday morning with twenty-six hours of travel, but once here, it was all worth it. There is much advice given to travelers heading to Thailand and we must admit, it is good advice. We took a metered taxi to our hotel, fourty-five minutes later we reached our destination paying a total of 500 baht for our ride (including tolls and tip). Not a bad deal for about $17 dollars!

We arrived late on Friday, around midnight and were very happy to finally get some sleep in a horizontal position (sleeping upright on a plane is NOT sleep). Today we got an early start, beginning our day with a run to the train/bus station. We were trying to figure out the train schedule for traveling to Cambodia and was a little disappointed to see that we could not make reservations. However, we asked about buses and the station's customer representative (at least that's what we assumed since he was wearing a name badge and didn't try to convince us one way or another) directed us to a busing service. Though the books didn't recommend the bus
Curtis in Front the Muay Thai RingCurtis in Front the Muay Thai RingCurtis in Front the Muay Thai Ring

Drinking Chang Beer in a plastic cup and holding the foreigner's guide to the fights.
service due to the cost, it wasn't so bad. Granted the train was much more inexpensive, the bus takes us from Bangkok, to the border, and onto Siem Reap for about $25 each. Considering the taxi ride from the border to Siem Reap is about $45, that's not a bad deal! We can't yet say one way or another due to the fact that we've not taken the bus trip yet, but we'll keep you all informed.

Afterwards, we headed out on foot to Wat Mangkon. It was a short walk but a little difficult to manuever due to poorly marked streets and even more poorly marked cross walks. Sally was a bit more courageous (or rather impatient) darting between the cars the moment the walk sign appeared. Unfortunately, Sally's courageousness quickly dampened in the muggy heat, mixed aroma of sewer and food, and incense, lots of incense. We finally reached our destination to be greeted by a beautiful Chinese Temple that is home to Buddhist, Taoist, and Confucian shrines. The temple was packed with many visitors bearing gifts of food, flowers, and incense, lots of incense. Upon leaving, Sally made the argument to take a taxi to the Grand Palace, our next stop on our tour of Bangkok. She won.

The taxi dropped us off near the Grand Palace on Khao San Road. This area is known as the backpakers' haven and it lives up to its reputation. Within a matter of moments, we walked by a Burger King, McDonalds, and Starbucks. But, we must admit, it was nice to see other foreigners. As we sat drinking our iced lattes, we realized we were surrounded by lots of white farang - Italians, Germans, Australians, and more! We then headed out to the Grand Palace. Again, the streets were a bit of a maze and crosswalks were difficult to find. Along our way we ran into a local who was very nice (we don't think he was a con-artist) who let us know the palace was closed until later in the afternoon for a "lying in state" ceremony and recommended a couple of nearby wats for us to tour in the meantime. He also told us what to pay using a tuk tuk. As he walked away and a tuk tuk drove up, he came back argued the price, explained were to take us, and said good-bye. Traveling by tuk tuk is fun, but the view is a bit obstructed due to the roof. We arrived at the Wat Intharawihan to see a 32 meter Buddha (i.e. one gigantic Buddha). It was most impressive but just as impressive was the temple next door. Beautiful, absolutely beautiful. After wanding and much picture taking, we headed to Wat Samphraya. This wat housed three Buddhas. The first was nothing spetacular, but the flowers people had draped on the stuppas smelled fantastic. The next was a reclining Buddha. This particular Buddha is also known as the Lucky Buddha, especially for those born on a Tuesday. Apparently, people travel to this Buddha to make wishes. Around back, was a very large sitting Buddha. Equally just as impressive. We came to find out that we were very lucky to see these Buddhas due to the fact that the site is not always open to the public. The site doesn't have a care-taker and due to its location near a military facility, public access is typically restricted. Curtis had the pleasure of a LONG conversation with a kind Thai tourist who was in town to have his wedding clothes tailored. He was most happy to share many details of the Buddha, his opinion on American politics, and his wedding. Though a very nice man, Sally nearly had to pry Curtis away from his grasp. We then popped by a tailoring shop. Though Thailand is most known for their tailoring, neither of us were in need of clothes and letting the shop know this was a difficult task. (RECOMMENDATION: If you are not interested in having clothing tailored, do not travel by tuk tuk). We then headed to a jewelry shop. Again, if you are not intested in buying jewelry, do not travel by tuk tuk. However, though the trip was a non-purchasing event for us, the tuk tuk did admit that swinging by the shop gave him a gas coupon.

We finally got to the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew. We were immediately greeted by these people who tried to convince us that we needed to throw corn to the pigeons for luck with Buddha (I think that's what they tried to say). Sally, for fear of getting on sh*t on by the pigeons left quickly. Unfortunately, Curtis was not as lucky and ended up throwing the corn. Got a great picture, but if you want to know how much the corn cost, you'll have to ask Curtis yourself. (RECOMMENDATION: Do not accept the corn!)

The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew were grand indeed. Though it cost us $10 each to get in, it was most definitely well worth the money. The site is fantastic! The Wat Phra Kaew is home to the Emerald Buddha. Though small in size, it sits in a huge temple atop an elevated alter. Sadly, no pictures were allowed in the temple, but what a site to see! The site is an architectuaral wonder with mosaic pillars, marble pediments, and much austenatious ornimentation. The miniture scale version of Angkor Wat was impressive. We then headed over to the Grand Palace. Also most impressive. The grounds were absolutely beautiful. Due to the 'laying in state' ceremony, some of the area was still blocked off to the public, but we were thoroughly satisfied with all the we saw. (RECOMMENDATION: Never listen to the guys near the entry. Even with military guards nearby, they will happily tell you the palace is closed. Also, you can easily talk the vendors down from 300 to 50 baht for a book of postcards.)

We then headed over to Wat Pho, home of the largest reclining Buddha. In addition, it is home to the largest collection of Buddha images and the earliest center of public education in Thailand. The reclining Buddha, is GIANTIC! We believe the temple it resides in, must have been build around the Buddha - it barely fits! Outside is a lovely fountain in which coy and turtles happily reside. The grounds was park-like with drawing students galore.

After much walking, it was time to head home. We took a taxi, which was a great idea, it would have been way to long of a walk. The trip back to the hotel was to sit out a horrific thunder storm was a terrific break from the heat. As soon as the rain subsided, we ventured forth seeking dinner. We didn't have to venture far before stumbling across a buffet. The outdoor venue teeming with young Thais, offered picnic style seating with a table top hot-plate/grill that was heated with charcoal. Curtis went up to grab the meat, returning with an array of only god-knows-what. We learned to add chicken broth to our grill/hot-plate (or bowl) and cook the meat on top. Add a few veggies, some noodles, and lots of red-pepper sauce, a couple liters of Tiger Beer and you have one hell of a meal! All for less than $10 for two! On our way back to the hotel, we stopped at 7-11 so Curtis could grab a beer-to-go (straw included) and an ice cream cone for Sally. Sadly, we were not so fortunate this time, and didn't beat the rainstorm home. Sally was smart enough to wear a rain coat, Curtis, not so smart. Drenched and absolutely soaking wet (Sally not so wet), we finally returned back to the hotel to drink beer, eat ice-cream, and go to sleep!

Saturday, September 7th , 2008


We woke up early this morning. This time-change thing isn't so bad (especially when you have something to get up and do). We took in a quick bite to eat for breakfast before heading out to the Chatuchak Weekend Market. Taking the skytrain, we had the opportunity to get a different view of the city and catch a glimpse of the Victory Monument. Upon arrival, we determined it was neccesary to find water and smoothies. Today was seemed so much hotter than the day before (but in reality, it was only 1 degree hotter). Weaving through the maze of booths, it was easy to get turned around. Sally never quite figured out the layout while Curtis was smart enough to mark booths worth returning to on a map. The market is quite impressive selling everything from clothes, shoes, purses, crafts, carvings, jewelery, paintings, toys, and the list goes on. Most interesting (or odd) would be the fluffy puppies and taxidermied (sp?) insects! (RECOMMENDATION: Though taxis are quite cheap, the 20-30 baht fare for the skytrain is a winner.)

The day got very hot and it was time to head back to the hotel for an afternoon break before heading out for our evening. Sally decided to take a nap. A long nap. Note to Curtis - Do not let Sally take a nap for longer than 20 minutes. Curtis dared to wake Sally after about an hour nap. After being unfairly snapped at (this is Sally typing and admitting her b*tchiness), Sally got ready and we headed out for a Muay Thai fight! (RECOMMENDATION: GO!) (RECOMMENDATION: Find a taxi cab driver that knows where you want to go.) After about a 20 minute cab ride, we arrived at the Lumphini Stadium which is on the east side of town. It also does not host fights on Saturday nights. We knew this and that is why we asked to go to the Ratchadamnoen Stadium. To bad our taxi driver didn't know the difference. After receiving some directions from the lady at Lumphini, we were on our way. Upon arrival, we found the tickets were a bit more than we had originally thought (guide books need to be updated). But never the less, we just decided to hit up the 3rd-class seats for 1,000 baht which were fine, except for the cage diving our section from the 2nd-class seating. It was still a fantastic fight. The main fight for the night ended early with one opponent knocking the other out in the second round, with the guy being hauled away on a stretcher. Luckily, the other five fights made up for the main fight. We really liked the 12 year old kid who came around taking orders - within moments of sitting down, we had Chang Beer and Pokky sticks in hand. The kid was on top of it, never letting our drinks go empty before swinging by for an order. Sally liked him a lot, tipping him most generously. Considering he was working ring-side, the second tier seating area, and the third tier seating area, the kid was busy!

Well, we finally ended the night with this blog. Next stop: Angkor Wat, Cambodia!


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Buddha at Wat IntharawihanBuddha at Wat Intharawihan
Buddha at Wat Intharawihan

Mind you this Buddha is 32 meters in height!


7th September 2008

FUN!
SO FUN!!! Thank you for the very detailed (very funny) explaination of your trip so far. I can't believe that you have already done so much and only been there a couple of days thus far. Keep it up! and I can't wait to read what happens next! hugs, corianne
9th September 2008

Surprise!
Hello Curtis, this was really fun to read! Being home with a fever today I logged in and found your blog. Have a safe trip and take care out there! All the best Maria
1st October 2008

thai food
you know there's a pretty good thai food place down the street from my house.
1st October 2008

Thank you!
I didn't know about your trip (since we haven't had drinks lately!), but I appreciate your blog, I read every word, as I have to live vicariously through you. I hope you have a wonderful time, keep me up on the blog!

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