The Bangkok Jungle

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Cycling in Bangkok's City Jungle

Before I started this visit to Thailand I had seen reports of bike tours in Bangkok - This interested me as a variation to the usual tourist type day tours and also posed some questions as to where you could cycle safely in the heavy traffic and pollution filled roads of Bangkok. It is suprising and satisfying to find that there are still some small pockets of land in this bustling metropolis that have not been overdeveloped and retain some of their original character.

The pottery island of Koh Kret that I describe in a previous blog is an example of this to some degree but another fascinating place to visit is Bangkachao which is about 20 minutes drive from downtown Silom or Sukhumvit. A longtail boat ride across the Chao Phrayer River and you will find narow tracks where you can ride a bicycle through untouched jungle terrain amidst some houses, temples and very ocassionally you will see a car or motorcycle on the roads. This is a great escape from the hectic city lifestyle and everything is relaxed at Bangkachao, a real breath of fresh air for your lungs and your appreciation of the Thai lifestyle.

I booked my tour through Spice Roads and I must say their tour and service was excellent. They have a great website and respond to emails which can be a rarity with some operators in Thailand and called me three times about the tour - this is a very professional company and highly recommended. I was picked up in a mini-van around 12.30 pm at my hotel by Woody, our guide for today's tour and Lisa and her husband Sam from Melbourne. We then went to Spice Road's optional pick up point at the Shell Station near the Tesco Lotus on Rama 1V Road where we picked up Debbie from England who works and lives in Singapore. We soon arrived at the Klong Tao Pier for a short longtail boat ride to the jungle of Bangkachao or as the locals call it "Bang Kra Jao". This wilderness in Bangkok can only be reached by boat as no bridges span this part of the river.

It was an extremely hot day in the afternoon sun and we were scheduled for a 25 km "easy" ride for our half-day tour. We cycled along some normal width streets before tackling some very narrow concrete paths which are raised above ground level and suitable care is required or you can end up toppling over the edge into the surrounding jungle or waterway. This adds to the fun of the trip and we had no serious incidents during our tour.

Our guide Woody made sure we had plenty of water and we had an ocassional stop in the shade to recuperate and have a soft drink and some fruit. This was a short training run for Woody as he has cycled all over Thailand on extended tours - something that would interest me but I am not sure if I have the stamina required for such a trek. One of the main benefits of these cycling tours besides the scenery is the exercise factor - It can be very easy to put on weight after a few weeks of Thai food, beer and other indulgences.

The lifestyle at Bangkachao is so relaxed and the locals extremely friendly. A vivid memory is the young lad who gave me a big smile and a high five as I rode past. Nearly everyone we saw would wave and say hello - I am sure they appreciate tourists are bringing some income to their patch of land but it makes you feel good to be so welcome as people go about their everyday lives. I saw many locals having a siesta, some probably supposed to be working but no one seems to care here - it would be so great to live in this part of Bangkok with some fresh air and low stress levels as you sit on your porch and listen to the sounds of the children playing or the peacefulness of the ever present jungle.

It really is pleasant cycling around Bangkachao and we passed a man fishing in a creek, other fishermen cleaning their day's catch at the deserted floating markets, some interesting architecture and the locals going about their lives with many children playing in the streets. All too soon our tour was over and after three hours of cycling in the Bangkok wilderness it was back onto the longtail boat to return to the Klong Tao Pier and by mini-van to my hotel at about 4.45 pm. I was tired and ready for a long shower and said goodbye to Woody and the rest of the cycling team after a great afternoon touring the unexpected sights of "Bang Kra Jao".


Click on the pics if you want a larger view.

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