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Published: December 9th 2006
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Novice monk
He was reading a mobile phone catalogue! This morning I got the tailors I’d used before to collect me and see them about getting some more things made. I’m sick of wearing the same things all the time and really like what they made me so I’m going to get them copied with the fabric I bought yesterday. Unfortunately I hadn’t bought enough of the fabric I wanted to use for trousers, unless I wanted them cropped, so I’m going to have to have them used for tops. I have a brilliant idea at the tailors, and ask them instead of taking me back to the hotel if they can take me to Wat Benchamabophit, the one the tuk-tuk driver was supposed to take me to but dumped me near Khao San then absconded. So at last I see it. It is beautiful, lots of ancient Buddha sculptures and beautiful grounds and canal. While I’m here a (very large) group of school children are being shown around by monks, so I can’t get into the Bot (ordination hall) as when I go there they are being led in prayer by the monks and are covering every bit of floor space. When I come out of the temple I’m
hassled by a taxi driver who offers to take me anywhere in Bangkok for 10 Baht. When I say no he says he’ll take me for free…….if we stop at a factory where he can get a voucher for free gasoline…… I tell him that I just want to walk. Another taxi driver sees his chance……..
I set off walking down the street thinking that I’ll walk for a while then get a taxi to the sky train. There’s no-one else waking at all. Just the farang fool (me) in the 35 degrees mid afternoon heat. I almost get run over by 3 boys on a push bike (that’s 1 push bike) and we do a little jig with me trying to say sorry, excuse me in Thai and them doing the same in English!. I walk for about 45 minutes alongside Chitralada Palace (the royal residence) and along the way see the guards patrolling along the walls. As they’re marching one is banging a drum, another is playing a pipe and the others have guns. The last one looks at me sternly when I take a picture of them! Outside the monks hospital I manage to flag down a
taxi to take me to the station - the ttrip doesn’t even register on the meter I’ve walked so far.
Next stop is Chit Lom where I go to the Erawan Tea Room for refreshment. It’s beautiful and I almost fall asleep on the very comfortable sofa/chair thing. I have mint tea served in a gorgeous little tea pot and glass and scones with jam and cream. Listening to the Rolling Stones, The Beatles and Hi Ho Silver Lining!!! Feeling better after that I decide to go to Lumphini Park as it’s pretty near. I think it will be nice to sit and read my book for a while and watch the crazy Thai world go by. The last time I was here was early morning and there was allsorts going on, lets see if an evening is any different. Looks promising…as I get to the park there’s a man on a soapbox with a microphone connected to his car battery (I arrive at the park at 5.30 and when I leave at 6.45 he’s still going strong). The park is full of joggers and instead of sitting and reading I end up walking around taking it all in. just
before 6pm a clock starts “chiming” chik-a-chik-a-chik-a-chik…. Then at 6, yep you guessed it, the national anthem starts and everyone stands still until a whistle blows telling them they can move again. It’s like a huge game of musical joggers! I walk to the other end of the park to get to Suan Lum Night Bazaar. To get there I have to risk my life crossing a double dual carriageway, aka 4 lane road. Not easy when Bangkok drivers ignore traffic lights and road directions. Whenever you cross a road, even if the traffic is supposed to be one way you still have to look the other way as you can bet your life that there will be a motorbike at least flying down in the wrong direction. Get to Suan Lum safely - I’ve adopted the walk and hope they stop method of crossing roads - where there’s a Ferris wheel and massive food court area with a stage, and lots of stalls selling everything (this is where I fell down the hole in the road! Nothing damaged). Then I realise that the football is on at 7.45 and I want to get back to watch it so I’ll
have to come back here to have a go on the Ferris wheel and have a good look around. It looks as though t doesn’t get going until later anyway. So I walk back to Sala Daeng, take the sky train to the pier, get the boat back to the hotel and get to my room. And realise that it’s Friday. Not Saturday. So the football is tomorrow. Not today. Doh! Dinner is at the high class street café on the other side of the river…..damn good food. I get lots of curious looks from Thai natives as I’m a single, white female in their midst.
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