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Published: October 16th 2006
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Nine-Turns Lane
Named after the month, not the number of turns. The concept of 'face' plays a significant role in Asian cultures (this is
not to be confused with the concept of 'teeth'...which, apparently, isn't nearly as important). In public, always keep your cool, don't raise your voice, and never let them see you angry - because nobody likes you when you're
angry. As a result, the Taiwanese are very calm and patient people; they don't exhibit road rage, they rarely honk their horns, and they also refrain from the use of rude gestures. But as we discovered today, sometimes you just gotta let it all out.
Originally, we were hoping to make our way further south to Tainan, but the advent of a long weekend spoiled those plans. October 10th is National Day and a bank holiday...so in all their wisdom the government decided to make Friday and Monday national holidays as well, giving the people a very rare five-day weekend. This led to trains, buses, and hotels being booked up virtually overnight and limiting our options for comfortable travel. We could still get tickets, but who wants to stand in a cramped cabin for three hours? Actually, the standing part doesn't bother me really, it's the close-quarters pervert who
Baguashan
I think it's part of a temple complex, but I'm not certain. Either way, it's an impressive structure behind the Buddha. continually brushes his hand up against your package that ruins the ride.
In any case, we made our way to
Lugang, a historic city on the west coast filled with old temples, long-standing craft shops, and tasty food vendors. The town used to be a major port and commercial center until deposits blocked the harbour and businesses moved elsewhere. The city's been ignored for the last century, but now people are discovering their past and Lugang is once again a destination.
Most of the town is a shithole - dusty, polluted, and ugly - and makes you wonder why you put up with the commute. But step into a busy temple, walk down a narrow laneway, or visit a bustling market and you begin to appreciate the journey. Our travels brought us to the old market street lined with food stalls selling sweet treats, furry-looking shrimp, and mouth-watering dumplings, the historical area of Chinsheng (Nine-Turns) Lane, and to the incensed Matsu, Longshan, and Wenwu Temples.
While daylight was still to be had, we wanted to make our way back to Changhua to visit yet another oversized Buddha and grab some dinner before jumping on the train back
Great Buddha Statue
Yet another huge outdoor seated Buddha. We've stopped comparing sizes...we really don't care anymore. to Hsinchu. Finding the bus station was more work than it should've been, as the accuracy of our map came into question. Semi-lost, we stood on a street corner trying to decide which direction to go when we heard a commotion coming from across the road.
Much to our delight, we got to witness this man pulling his woman by her jacket and hair towards their scooter as she fought back with kicks and punches, all the while yelling obscenities and generally being a bitch. Once seated on the scooter, she began to smack him in the back of the head and choke him. We enjoyed this scene for about a minute before they drove off through traffic. Good times!
We eventually found our way to the bus station, bought our tickets and sat down, only minutes later to hear a revving engine and see the man come running past (barefoot!). It seems the woman commandeered the scooter shortly after their departure and was now chasing him down the street. She narrowly avoided sideswiping a car before turning into the bus parking lot and we got sweet front row seats to the best public display of spousal abuse
Wenwu Temple
When Wu go to temple, he come here. ever! There was punching and kicking and swearing and spitting and everyone was crowding around to watch. Eventually, the bus company employees broke up the fight, and the unhappy couple got back on their scooter and that was the last we saw of them.
Sadly, the events in Changhua were obviously less interesting. We saw the Buddha, took some pictures, and ate dinner at the best damn teppanyaki restaurant anywhere. I wish there was more to say, but it's hard to top seeing someone almost get mowed down by a psycho on a motorbike.
With full stomachs and happy memories we boarded the train back to Hsinchu, lucky to have seats for this part of the trip. Which is good news too, because I don't know how to say 'BAD TOUCH!' in Chinese.
Camille & Denise
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Dannit!
non-member comment
Courtesy
Am I to assume that Cory has the common courtesy to give someone a reach-around?