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Published: February 8th 2008
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Feeding Time
..one happy elephant.... Size of country
277 miles long 140 miles across at its widest point - land area about same as Ireland - 20 million pop
I have to say that SL is beautiful and has everything - however there is a war going on between the government and the Tamil Tigers. There was a load of security in the centre of Colombo and whilst we were there, there were repeated bombings.
However we have had a great time and not least because there are loads of elephants and the Sri Lankans stuffed an elephant called "Tusker" and made it a national treasure on show next to the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy!!
We started off at the Elephant Orphanage - 60 odd elephants - happy lives - their daily schedule is - get fed - play - go down to the river for bathing - back for lunch - play - go down to river for bathing - tea - play - mate - go to sleep
It was started in 1975 with 7 orphans. There are now about 60 elephants aged between 4 months and 64 years very well looked after, frolicking in the river. Carol got the chance to bottle feed a baby elephant and it drank at least a litre of warm milk in 3 seconds flat and had a couple of gallons.
Next day we had an elephant trek - brill!!
Next day to Sigiriya - a 5th century fortress on the “Lion Rock” this rises 600 feet above the plain. Walked all the way up to the top - final part by rickety iron ladder. Half way up are frescos of “Heavenly Maidens” approached by a spiral staircase.
Then onto another World Heritage site - Polonnaruwa - large site - 11th and 12th century includes a large lake - whole society built on the effective irrigation of the land and became an exporter of rice. All came to an end with the destruction of the irrigation systems.
Next day Dambulla Caves (another World Heritage site) - Rock temple built in 1st century BC - over 2000sq metres of painted walls and ceilings - on way lot of security including troops with full body armour and battle helmets. 2 days later a bomb exploded in the bus station at Dambulla which killed 18 people mostly teenagers and children who were on a pilgrimage to the Buddhist temple. Put a damper on things.
Kandy - lovely working town - supermarket just like home - evening at the dancing - large 1920s theatre - great costumes music and fun - ended with firewalkers. Next morning to the Royal Botanical Gardens - originally built as a pleasure garden by a Sinhala king then expanded by the British - 147 acres of wonderful trees and walk ways - it has to be the best gardens we have ever seen. Weird large bats circled and hung in the trees.
Next day travelled to Nuwara Eliya - on the way called in at a tea plantation and saw them making tea - had a cup of “Golden Tips” which sells for £1000 a kilo - frankly it could have been hot water - I still think that Yorkshire Tea as grown and made in Yorkshire is the best. On a side issue I saw a note pinned to the notice board there which said “Tea should be thick enough for a mouse to trot on” Irish Proverb - is this true?
The surrounding countryside and steep hills terraced with tea plantations - any spare ground growing vegetables and by the side of the road neat stalls selling the fresh vegetables - a great road from Kandy to NE for Jeremy Clarkson and the Top Gear team to use testing cars
Temperature changed significantly from 28 degrees to Av temp 16 degrees - this is highest point in SL at 8282 feet
NE is also called “Little England” and it is frozen at 1960 - it did our heads in. Mist coming down the hills reminiscent of The Trossachs. Cool in the evening.
Went for a walk round and there was a public library (the same as the village library in North Ferriby). Looked around and there was a set of large folders with the press cuttings about the Tsunami that hit SL 30000 dead and 100000 displaced. I hadn’t realised how badly SL had been hit. All along the coast there are foundations left of houses that were swept away.
We stayed at the Grand Hotel which was very good - mock Tudor originally the Governors House which had been added to. The Billiards room and bar were original as built in 1890. Everywhere wood panelling and wood floors. Service absolutely great. Decided to have a blow out in the “Supper Club” exactly as it was in 1930 wood panels banquettes waiters in red bum freezer jackets - great meal (including prawns, fillet steak etc) £10 each. My head was in Sri Lanka my stomach somewhere in Yorkshire and the rest of me somewhere in between!
Next day as it was the holiday weekend (the Monday 4 Feb is SLs Independence Day) there was a Race Meeting at the Racecourse. Entry 20 SL Rupees (10pence each) so along we went and had a great time. We bet 100 SLR and had a winner straight away - total winnings 50 SLR = 25 pence. Unfortunately the rest of the meet didn’t go so well so we ended up down 75 pence for the day. I hadn’t taken my hat and consequently got a red face from the sun. That evening went for a genuine Indian Curry! £6 for us both and I got seconds.
Left early the next day for the long drive to the coast - we had seen that there were gem mines and arranged to visit one. These are small mines in the fields about 30 feet deep and extending about 30 feet from the shaft. Rubber wood is used for the props and a fern like leaves are used to stuff between the props to stop water coming in. The spoil is brought up and washed by hand to find the gems. We stopped by the side of the road and walked a quarter of a mile into a field where there were 3 mines at various stages of production. One had produced about £75000 of uncut stones and expected to produce about £150000 in total. It is a highly profitable business.
There is water everywhere and on our way back to the car ended up to our hocks in mud so we arrived at the beach hotel looking pretty disreputable.
Bentota beach - wide fine sand beach almost deserted - swaying palm trees - I am sure you can fill the rest in - For the first time we felt a bit guilty about being in such picturesque surroundings -well for at least 8 seconds anyway. Life is sweet and we say thank you every day. That evening lightening and a tropical rain storm - you know even rain ain't too bad if it is warm!!
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