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Doorway framed Soldier
The rain covered floor captures the Pavillion hidden from view.This past weekend I went on the DMZ Tour with the Korean Conflict class. Even though I had already been to North Korea, I thought taking advantage of this opportunity would be educational.
We woke up bright and early and left on the 1-hour bus ride to the Joint Security Area (JSA). It was cold and rainy, but over 90 people still showed up to go.
At the JSA, both North and South Korean armed forces co-exist in the same work environment. Though it is common to see troops from the North in the JSA, this by no means takes away from the seriousness and constant threat that exists between the two groups. There is no harmony, only the necessary respect that comes with wanting to keep peace and doing one's job.
Both sides are allowed no more than 35 guards on duty at all times.
The JSA was established after the cease-fire agreement on July 23, 1953. Though the cease-fire was called, no side was issued victory or defeat. The 800-meter wide zone is almost circular and intersects the Demilitarized Zone that separates the North and the South. It is located in the village of Panmunjom,
South Korean Soldier
Standing at his post which it is often referred to as “the peace village.”
Despite the fact that the cease-fire was called, several threatening events have taken place within the JSA since. The most vicious of these outbreaks was in 1976. The South tried to trim a tree that blocked the view between checkpoints; they called this operation Paul Bunyan. The South Korean men were greeted by a large Northern force. Two of them were slaughtered with an axe, and 9 others were wounded. This is now referred to as the “Axe Murder Incident.”
It is not hard to see why the motto of the JSA is “In front of them all.”
Once we arrived, the dreary weather gave the tour a sense of the shocking reality. We first entered into the briefing room in the Joint Security Area where they handed each of us a guest badge and informed us that everyone in the JSA had to wear one, including all military officials. We took our seats and a U.S. Sergeant stood on the auditorium stage and presented a slide show. By his indifferent tone, hurried pace, and lack of note cards, it was clear that this was a routine
JSA
Here is a map of the buildings. The Blue are the South and the yellow are the North. run-through that he had memorized for possibly months now.
He gave us a brief history of the JSA and told us about the different events that have taken place including the “Axe Murder Incident” I already mentioned. He also told us about the competition of having the highest flagpole to represent each side. As of right now, North Korea is flying the largest flag in the world. It is about the size of a 3-story building and weighs 600 lbs when dry.
After the briefing, we were brought onto JSA buses and given a go 'round of the area. Our tour guide was another U.S. Soldier and it was strange to hear a native English speaker who knew what he was talking about. On the tour, we saw the Bridge of No Return. Here, prisoners from both sides were exchanged across this bridge after the Korean War. The prisoners were free to choose either to stay in the South or go across to the North, but once they decided to cross, they would never be allowed to return.
We were also ushered to buildings such as the Freedom House, House of Peace, and were even allowed
Panmungak of North Korea
The Main North Korean Building to go into The Military Armistice Commissions building where UN members meet with both sides. We were free to take pictures in particular areas, but since it was raining we did not stay in one spot too long.
After the JSA tour, we were permitted to walk down through one of the underground North Korean tunnels that was discovered by the South. All together there are 4 tunnels, all of which have been found attempting to secretly cross over into the southern part of Korea. We went down the 3rd tunnel, which was discovered in 1978. The first tunnel was discovered in 1974. The most recent tunnel was discovered in 1990. Unbeknownst to me, we were not allowed to bring our cameras down into the tunnel. Somehow I managed to stroll right in with mine around my neck, put on my hard hat and take a few pictures before I was told by a fellow student that they had had their camera confiscated at the entrance.
After the Tunnel, we went to a small museum that showed displays of all of the events and places we had seen and heard about during the day. It was
pretty awesome, because they had some North Korean Firearms on display.
After the Museum, we were brought to the souvenir shop (how touristy), and then allowed to get back on our original buses. Due to the rain, the tour may have been short and sweet, but it was extremely more authentic and edifying.
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Anne Shattuck
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Your trip to the DMV
Hi Rebekah -- I just attempted to write my response to your trip to the DMV. Somehow, my remarks disappeared from the screen! I don't know if I "sent" it prematurely, or if it is lost. I really enjoyed your remarks and the pictures which stirred up a lot of emotion for me as I had been in the service at the time the DMV was being established. I believe that was in 1952. I don't have time to reconstruct my message right now, however I'll e-mail you later. Thanks for the blog. I almost feel as if I took that tour with you! Love, Grandma