Who loves the islands? Wido!! {Darrell}


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Asia » South Korea » Jeollabuk-do » Wido
August 21st 2007
Published: September 1st 2007
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A good night’s sleep. After Sunday night’s troubles, it was just what we needed, and it was just what we got. The jjimjilbang we stayed in was comfortable, and all three of us slept solidly through the night. In the morning we had time to go through the baths again, to get all loosened up before hoisting back on our packs. Outside we caught a taxi to the express bus terminal, where (after doubling back to collect the slops Cath left behind) we found a bus to the small coastal town of Gyeokpo.

From the bus stop we headed straight for the beach. We dropped our packs on the rocks among a whole bunch of rock bugs and headed straight for the water. This time the West coast sea was the perfect temperature, and with the weather nice and sunny, we spent almost an hour splashing around and dunking each other. Well, some of us were doing more dunking and others were doing more ‘being dunked’.

After refreshing all our saltiness (it goes way down after being away from the sea) we kitted up, and headed off along the rocks, with the sea on one side and a massive
Gyeokpo beachieGyeokpo beachieGyeokpo beachie

Arriving with only one thing in mind...
cliff on the other. All along the cliff were caves and the little stone towers that the Buddhists love to build. As we came around the point, the main harbor came into view. With help from the locals, we managed to get hold of tickets for the next ferry to the island of Wido, ice-creams, and even a stylish set of straw hats (now that we were thoroughly fried by the sun!).

The ferry to Wido turned out to be about an hour long, just cruising on the flat sea. It was so revitalizing to be at sea again, with the salty spray and sea breeze. I could have spent all day on cruising along on the deck, watching little islands slide along the horizon.

When our ferry docked, I went up to the waiting bus and asked if he was going to the beach we had decided to camp on. He waved ‘no’ and so we sat down to wait. When the bus diver got back he just popped and started shouting at us in Korean. Crazy! I don’t even think I’ve heard a Korean person shout before! Anyway, he soon got over it, not understanding our
Along the rocksAlong the rocksAlong the rocks

Walking along the west coast
answers, and went to sit down. I still have no idea what that was all about, but we ended up having to wait for about 90mins until the next ferry came. Then we were allowed to get onto the bus so that he could take us to the beach. Weird.

Anyway, by the time we did take the bus along the coast of the island, the sun was just starting to set, and the views over the sea were incredible. The tiny beach he dropped us off at was made of pebbles, and just as we were preparing to go find a nice bumpy campsite, a woman who owned a motel on the beachfront came along. She was insistent that we stay at her place, and was genuinely worried about where we were going to shower if we camped on the beach. When we answered that we would just swim in the sea, she practically wrote us off as nuts (and she would certainly not be the first!).

Luckily, we were able to change the topic, as Susan realized she had left her purse on the bus (these Rendallses!). No, the bus would not be coming back today.
Taking the CuriseTaking the CuriseTaking the Curise

In our stylish new hats
She shuffled quickly into the house, and came out with the keys to a nice old double-cab bakkie. We all piled in, and the old woman floored it, bouncing along the windy coast road, and cutting corners like a rally drive. The old bakkie didn't sound happy to b going this fast, but the she was intent on chasing down the bus before the driver quit for the day.

And catch it she did. Boy, you should have seen the look on that driver's face when his favourite westerners rocked up a few minutes later, asking for a third time to be let onto his bus. Fortuneately this time we were backed by the skrik-vir-niks local lady, and he saw the funny side of the whole thing. And to top it off, there was Susan's wallet, still on the chair.

With everything going well again, and once again convinced of the inherent kindness of the Korean people, we hopped back in the bakkie. The woman tried again to persuade us to sleep indoors, but soon realised it was hopeless and took us to a different beach where we would at least be able to camp on sand, and have nearby public showers. It's so great how woman all over korea have taken up the role of 'mother' for us (even to Susan!) while we're travelling!

We pitched our 2-man tent, and packed our bacgs inside, then unzipped the two sleeping bags and laid them out on a groundsheet next to the tent for the 3 of us to sleep on. In the middle of everything, we had not thought to even get supper, and now without a fishing rod, we'd be going without. We made a nice cup of coffee, finished off the last of some Korean cake we had bought in Seoul and lay down under the stars.

Just as we were drifting off, everything changed! A bright streetlight above us turned on, and some place down teh beach started playing really loud Korean pop music! Sitting wide awake in the white light, we could just laugh. If we had not been so tired it might have kept us awake.

After 2 hours of swatting at mosquitoes, and scratching the nice collection of bumps I had all over my body, I decided to give in and go inside the tent. The women were happy
Afternoon on WidoAfternoon on WidoAfternoon on Wido

Waiting for that crazy bus driver. Well, there are worse places to get stuck.
with this, because they were getting a chilly, and they were left with a sleeping bag each to zip closed. With the ladies nice and warm and me free of the little flying devils, we all managed to get a pretty decent snooze.


Additional photos below
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Sun setting over the coastSun setting over the coast
Sun setting over the coast

From the beautiful coastal road
The only bus on WidoThe only bus on Wido
The only bus on Wido

After getting Susan's wallet back, the bus driver telling us to get lost.
Sand and showersSand and showers
Sand and showers

The beach we ended up camping on


3rd September 2007

Maybe the bus driver
thought you were American, or remembered hooligans from the 2000 SK Olympics Games or ... if you were in France you would be expecting such treatment every time!

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