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Published: June 14th 2014
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Joint Security Area and North Korea
The grey building is in the north, DMZ. While intense and intimidating, I did not find the Korean demilitarized zone (DMZ) the scariest place on earth so called by former President Bill Clinton. I took a USO sponsored tour to the DMZ a few days ago and was actually kind of surprised how calm it appeared. After a US Army briefing, we were escorted on a bus from Camp Bonifas at the DMZ boundary right through to Panmunjeom which straddles the military demarcation line (MDL). Each country has 2 buildings right across the MDL (called the Joint Security Area, or JSA, here) and we could enter one of the South Korean's where there were 2 South Korean soldiers on guard: one standing across the MDL; the other was entirely in North Korea. We then proceeded to checkpoint #3 which, through a demarcation oddity, is surrounded on 3 sides by North Korea providing great views into the Hermit Kingdom and the world's formerly tallest flagpole, a staggering 160 meters high. Next came the South Korean Dora Observatory and the Dorasan train station which can be reached from Seoul. The separated countries were actually linked by rail for one year starting from December 2007 but North Korea subsequently closed the border
Specialist Woods at the JSA
Our escort for the tour, DMZ. crossing. The train carried materials to the north's Kaesong Industrial Area, a joint economic venture between the two Koreas. After a quick lunch (not included in the tour price) we descended to the 3
rd infiltration tunnel dug by the North Koreans. According to a defector, there are 25 tunnels only four of which have been found by the south.
There are many other tours but the USO tour is very good and also happens to be one of the least expensive. Koridoor (the Korean company actually running the tour) charges $80 or ₩96,000 so slightly cheaper to pay in dollars. The
dinero must be paid several days in advance at a KEB branch so I paid in US dollars at the Incheon Airport branch right after arrival. Credit cards can be used but charged the
won rate.
US$ ≈ 1020 Korean
won (₩)
Accommodation and food Once again I stayed at Crossroad Backpackers in an 8 person AC dorm which was never full and most nights had only 4 occupants. Because it was not crowded like my first stay the price was a bit cheaper, averaging ~₩12,000/night including breakfast and WiFi. It's in a lively neighborhood near
Hongik University so there are plenty of cheap eats, none of which I could name. The hostel has B.Y.O.B. pizza parties on Wednesdays and Friday is energy drink night but more caffeine was the absolute last thing I needed. As a bonus the hostel had a great entertainment system and I was finally able to finish watching the last season of Curb Your Enthusiasm. Pretty, pretty good. Actually, I was not that impressed with season 8 as it was impossible to top seasons 6 and 7.
Transport Seoul's metro must be one of the largest and best in the world. Standard fare is ₩1,150, bit more for 2 zone trips. There are fare cards available that shave ₩100 off all fares but the card cost ₩2,000, not such a bargain for short visits. There are also single and multi-day passes but you'd really have to spend a lot of time riding the rails to make up the cost and the passes don't cover the ride to Incheon Airport, normally ₩3,950 and 50 minutes from Hongik University Station.
City Walls and Bukaksan There are old fortress walls now restored running the ridges of the mountain chain surrounding the center
North Korean Building at the JSA
Small, white posts between the trees mark the Military Demarcation Line (MDL), DMZ. of Seoul. Bukaksan is the highest. At 342 meters I didn't expect it to be such a workout but I was still knackered from the Jirisan hike 2 days earlier. The sun and extreme humidity probably didn't help matters either. Passport is needed to walk the walls in one direction only and there is a brief application to fill out. Security is tight with military guard towers at regular intervals and other plainclothes security officers every 50-100 meters the reason being that the president's residence is below the walls. Photographing towards the president's house is strictly prohibited. Along the wall where I walked, a North Korean commando squad infiltrated back in1968 and tried to assassinate the president. The section starting at Bukaksan, taking in the summit, and exiting at Samcheong Park took a couple hours at a slow pace with plenty of shady hydration breaks. Walking the walls is free. To get there, exit Gyeonbokgung metro station exit 3 and catch bus 7212 or 1020 to the stairs just below the entrance to the walls at Bukaksan. From the city walls at Samcheong Park to Gyeongbokgung Palace is ~40 minutes on foot.
Changdeokgung Palace Secondary to Gyeongbokgung Palace back
in the dynasty days. Free guided tours in English included with the ₩3,000 entry are offered at 10:30 and 14:30. I took a free guided tour through the city of Seoul that started at 10:00. The palace's secret garden has a separate ₩5,000 entry, tour included, but I gave it a miss. Palace is closed Mondays.
Gyeongbokgung Palace One palace was enough for me but I hustled over after the Changdeokgung tour to watch the changing of the guards ceremony held on the hour between 10:00 and 16:00. Not necessary to buy the ₩3,000 entrance ticket to view. This palace is closed Tuesdays.
War Memorial of Korea A huge part of the nation's psyche and the size of the memorial attests to that. Most of the museum focuses on the Korean War but there are also several exhibits devoted to South Korea's more recent roles in other conflicts both from a military and humanitarian perspective. Entry is free as are the guided tours in English at 10:00 (could be 10:30) and 14:30. Not sure if or when the museum is closed.
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