Published: August 15th 2005Asia » SingaporeAugust 15th 2005


Ken Dedes
By Jim Supangkat
Over my time away, I've been to a lot of museums. So I thought I'd tell you a bit about each one. They are all really fantastic. And I couldn't pick a favourite.
THERE'S A LOT IN THIS ENTRY, AS I'VE GONE AND PUT ALL MY MUSEUM STUFF TOGETHER, NOT ON THE SEPARATE DAYS I'VE GONE. I WON'T BE DISAPPOINTED IF YOU DON'T READ ALL THIS IN ONE SITTING. BUT I WOULD BE DISAPPOINTED IF YOU DON'T GET THROUGH IT ALL EVENTUALLY... (IT IS ALL FASCINATING STUFF!! AND ALL PLACES YOU SHOULD GO IF YOU COME HERE)..... CHECK IT OUT WHEN YOU CAN.... AS SOMEONE ASKED ME, EVERYTHING WILL BE AVAILABLE ON THIS SITE FOR QUITE A WHILE YET.
*** The Istana Collection ***
Before I forget, I'll tell you about the one little one I went to in Malaysia, as all the rest are in Singapore.
In Kuala Lumpur, at the base of Menara KL (KL Tower) there is a small gallery area that has temporary exhibits from museums around Malaysia.
I was very lucky to see part of the grand Istana Collection. Istana means Malaysian PALACE. So I got to see part


Dea
Of "3 Buddha Mothers"
of the collection that actually belongs to the royal family of Malaysia.
Everything is very beautiful of course, a lot of gold and jewels.
There was everything from beautiful paitings and jewellery, to swords and guns.
There were momentos of international visits and visitors.
And important commemoration articles, such as decorated eggs commemorating royal marriages and the like (such as I saw in the Czar Display in Memphis).
It was a beautiful walk through a small part of Malaysia's Royalty, and I was lucky to see the temporary exhibit at all, and it was even free.
*** SAM ***
(See 1.1 - 2.8 below)
Sam is the Singapore Art Museum. A lot of gorgeous art in a gorgeous old building. j
There is a lot to SAM, with over 10 rooms. It is fascinating, especially for the mix of art - not just styles or media, but it is like seeing the art of 5 or so different countries, with Singaporeans coming from Indian/ Chinese/ Philipine/ Malay/ Indonesian backgrounds and more.
1.1 Georgette Chen Liying
This talented lady was married to the Foreign Minister, Eugene Chen,
and the museum displays various pieces by her, including many portraits. Her portraits capture the personal lives of public figures, such as her husband, the Foreign Minister, and their Prime Minister of the time, Singapore's first Prime Minister - Tunku Abdul Rahman. There are also many self portraits.
1.2 Tang Du Wu
and
Iskander Jalil
2 fascinating people. The display of Jalil's work includes pottery of many types and various items about pottery, including his own notes on the intricacies of pottery. He took the development of his pottery and style very seriously, studying the art in extreme depth.
And Tang Da Wu I find fascinating. I don't know how to explain, except to describe one great piece. There is something called "Map of South America". And what it is, is a skeleton of a crocodile, tail at the right down to the head in the bottom right, which does altogether take on the shape of South America, with a bag taking up the last little area, like where Brazil is. Can you picture that at all?
Waterloo Courtyard
and
the Glass Hall
In this area is
"The Spirit of Nature" by Han Sai Por, seen in one of my photos. This was very interesting. The media is stone - which is inseparable from the earth, and the shapes take on the form of seed pods, the beginning and continuation of life.
1.3 and 1.4
Cheong Soo Pieng and others
- These 2 galleries started me on Cheong Soo Pieng, a fantastic painter.
- Here you could also enjoy the very realistic paintings of Chua Mia Tee,
- the calligraphy mixed with painting of Tan Suie Hian (of Indonesia)
- and Chen Wen Hsi, who has a very modern Chinese style.
1.5 "A heroic decade"
There was a section of SAM dedicated specifically to the years 1955 to 1965. They called it the heroic decade. During this time, Singapore was struggling for modernity, in every way, including in, and captured by, the art of the time. Bali was depicted in many of the paintings in that section. And it explained that Bali was beautifully "old", but also beautifully "now", which was something that Singapore was striving for.
2.1 and 

Armenian Street Branch
of Asian Civilisations Museum
2.2
"Art of our time
Tides and Times:
Encounters with S.E. Asian Art"
In this section there was a great deal that showed a mix between modern life and buddhism, or Hinduism, or the 'old' Chinese and the 'new' Chinese. The best examples are "Ken Dedes" by Jim Pupangkat and "Dea" by Agnes Arellano, part 2 of the "3 Buddha Mothers" series. Check out the photos. Aren't they fantastic?
2.5 Cheong Soo Pieng and others
More distinct work from Cheong Soo Pieng. This person was the driving force of Singapore art for 40 years, continually pushing them to new boundaries, creating new styles, and pushing all artists of the country to follow.
Also in this area was the wood carving of Choo Ken Kwang.
2.6 Art Education
and
"Still life... then now"
In this area of modern art you can see:
- Tan Chin Chin's fabric works
- Tan Chin Chin's "Stand by"
- Chong Fah Cheong's "3rd Aunty's Birthday" with all the shoes at the entrance (see photo)
- more Lee Boon Wang paintings
- Teo Eng Seng's "The Net" (see photo)
- Chua Chai Teck's "My Ah Kong's Big House" with the skyscrapers (see photo)
- David Chan's "Too Fast Food" (see photo)
- Liu Kang's works
- and much, much more great modern Singapore art I really loved (hence quite a few photos!!)
2.7 "The Times Collection"
The Times Collection is a great set of works from the 70s and 80s. This is an interesting time in Singapore life and art history, as they had just separated from Malaysia and become the Nation of Singapura (Singapore). They were all looking for a modern and characteristically Singapore art form, as with other areas of their life.
2.8 "Art of Our Time"
More from the fantastic Tang Da Wu, who I spoke of before with the "Map of South America". Along the same fantastic, creative lines, he made "Just in case" and Tigers Whip" as seen in the photos. Tigers Whip is actually performance art also. There are photos around that gallery showing the performances, where he slowly pulls off the tail, moves the tiger to stand on something and other things. Some Singaporeans like Tang Da Wu, others


Inside the Battle Box
One of the communications rooms
dislike his work. I love it all, especially his graphite drawings....but I really just love it all.
*** Clan Houses ***
I have recently mentioned them briefly, but I visited 2 or 3 clan houses in Chinatown, that now I actually know much more about since I've spent time in the Chinatown Heritage Centre, and other places in Chinatown. What you can see in these clan houses is the area where Chinese people would hurry to pray, after bathing, when they'd just got off the boat, to thank the gods for allowing them to live through the journey when so many others died. There were other places where they may meet up with people to help them find accommodation or work, even where they might buy some opium or gamble. Clans often ended up 'running' Chinatown, getting 'protection money' from all the vendors and much much more. They were initially groups that came together to help each other settle in the new land. More about the Chinese when I write about the Heritage Centre.....
*** Asian Civilisations Museum ***
Armenian Street Branch
This branch consists of a great Peranakan Chinese display


In a 'death house'
The preparation for a funeral of a lady's husband - only 21 years old
from the early 20th century. Peranakan Chinese came before the larger influx of Chinese settlers, often married locals, and had a very individual culture. Actually, they were the descendants of the settlers that came from China, who kept their own customs as much as they could. These descendants were the first to adopt local customes during their long residence. The women were called Nonyas and the men were called babas. Their buildings can be seen in Melaka in Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore primarily.
The display had a great range of items, including photos that the Peranakan Chinese considered extremely important of individuals, marriages, families and very occassionally just the children. The individual photos were used during funerals. When they were taken, the children would be instructed which was to be used for their funeral when they died. There was also a lot of gorgeous furniture that I wanted to take home, clothes and jewellery.
You also learn about marriage - how the mother arranged the marriage for the son, choosing the best daughter in law, with the following features:
- The girl's mother running the household in a desirable way
- About the girl -


The share kitchen and toilet
in the Chinatown Heritage Centre
egg shaped face
- Not pointy chin
- Small mouth
- Wide hips
- and small feet
*** ASEAN Sculpture Garden ***
Fort Canning Park
The photo that is included is of the sculpture "Together". What do you think of it? Can you see the different cultures of Singapore, 'holding hands'? This is found in the Fort Canning Park, near the beautiful Fort Canning Centre building.
Also in Fort Canning Park, you can find Raffles House, the National Archives, the Singapore Philatelic Museum, a reservior, the Registry of Marriages, various memorials, and gothic gates. There are a number of old fort items. But also it is modernising and becoming more of an area Singaporeans can 'use', with the Singapore History Museum coming in 2006.
The Fort Canning Centre there was used as the English army barracks and was also used by the Singapore Armed Forces. It now has theatre and dance.
An interesting thing to know, it was used as far back as the 14th century, as the centre of the Malay Kingdom. It was a 'forbidden hill' to the locals when Raffles came. During clearing, ruins were found. The


Typical living quarters
As shown in the Chinatown Heritage Centre
view kept power on the hill, Raffles building his house and the first botanical garden there.
*** Battle Box ***
This place is fascinating. I went to the Japanese underground lair in Okinawa and it was much darker, dingier, wet and cramped. The Battle Box, of course, is not the Hilton. It is 9 meters underground, just one of the bunkers in Fort Canning Park. It was the largest operations complex in Singapore and part of the Malaya Command HQ.
You get a view of what went on, particularly in relation to communications, which can win or lose a war. You see:
- Telephone exchange
- Cipher office
- Signal office and Signal control
- Fortress Command
- Gun Operations
- Surrender conference room
- Escape Hatch and lots more
You learn why Singapore surrendered to the Japanese, but also hear a lot about when the Japanese surrendered after the second atomic bomb at Nagasaki.
Singapore fell on February the 15th, 1942.
Singapore surrendered for lots of reasons really. Everything was against them. The English didn't have the weapons behind them that the Japanese had. The Japanese came
in by the back door, you could say, coming via Johor Bahru (at the Malaysian Border) and I heard they even came in by bicycles they had stolen from Malaysia. On top of all of that, Singapore had only enough food for the troop for one or two days, and there was all sorts of supply problems really --- not just food, but weapons, and ammo. There was only ammo for the smaller weapons. The Japanese demanded an unconditional surrender, and though the man, Lieutenant General Arthur Percival, has been criticized by England for it, her had to surrender to save the lives of many.
The Battle Box shows you some final discussions and the final meeting between Percival and the other leaders. Bennett, was the head of the AIF, who agreed with the surrender and helped push him into it. It was interesting for me to see the Australian side of it, in particular. But having a love for Japan and anything Japanese, I found it a little hard, though totally understandable, to hear this man (who was about 7 at the time) talk about the "cruel Japanese". I know many were in fact. I've been to Nanjing,
where they raped and killed so many Chinese females. It was just a little hard to listen to the existing hatred in his voice. I was sad for everyone.
*** Asian Civilisations Museum ***
Main building near the Padang and Clarke Quay
This great museum is definately worth the visit. There is the regular permanent display about the whole of asian civilisation, and then the temporary display, which happens to be the Vatican Collection, which I was very lucky to see. And for a mere $8 for the whole thing...I'd go again, but I'm leaving tomorrow morning for Changi and then Bangkok. Even the building is fantastic. I got some great shots of it from the bumboat tour quite a few days ago. There are great views of it from the other side of the river - Boat Quay.
Asian displays
This is a fantastic museum, just with its permanent collection.
You can see, amongst other things:
Singapore River - pre-colonial and colonial display vs today
Southeast Asia - prehistory, Buddhism, textiles, jewellery and performing arts
West Asia - Islam way of life, Allah, Muhammad, calligraphy, textiles
China - Imperial system, silk, ceramics, Buddhism, Daoism
South Asia - Hindu trinity, Buddhism, Jainism, temples, colonial, medieval India, Hindu mixed with Muslim, Sikhism
I got my fill of Buddhist statues, temple architecture and calligraphy, all which I love.
And enjoyed the textiles, jewellery and everything else as well.
And then on top of all that, there was:
"Journey of Faith"
"Art and History from the Vatican Collection"
It was really wonderful, I can't tell you. I, of course, don't have any photos of anything inside the museum, and will only be able to show you the pamphlet and the gallery guide that I got.
It was especially interesting to go and see this, not long after meeting BJ and Di, who had just been to the Vatican not long ago.
The coolest thing I saw - a fragment believed to be part of the book of David.
Doesn't that spin you out if you think about it.
Other things included some brilliant paintings, the tiara and other items of the Popes'. Slabs and other things from basilicas such as hammers, trowels and other construction items.
The
areas covered, if that will help you get a bit more of an idea of what I've seen:
- Journey through the life of Christ
- Go and Proclaim
- Witnesses in Rome
- Peace of Constantine
- Pilgrims and Pilgrimages
- Journey to Asia
*** Art House Museum ***
and
Old Parliament House Museum
The Art House Museum, in the Old Parliament House had the exhibition
"A Wealth of Visions". It is actually a collection from the DBS bank, hence the "wealth" i think. To celebrate Singapore's 40th Birthday, the bank is showcasing its own corporate collection. They've been collectin for almost 50 years, with more than 1,000 works of art, in Singapore and overseas offices. These artists have been recognised for the contribution of their visions which enrich the lives of Singaporeans today.
They included, many artists of the 60s and 70s:
- Cheong Soo Pieng (of course) - a great one "Returning from Market" with 2 ladies and their goodies on their heads and in their arms
- Teng Nee Cheong
- Thomas Yeo
- Wu Tsai Yen
- Gog Sing Hooi - "Temple" which is very beautiful
- and Chen Wen Hsi - "Squirrels" (which I'd just seen another one of from the same group of works at SAM)
Also, as it says above, there are items of the Old Parliament House Museum, on permanent displays along its walls, including photos of many important events, visitors to Singapore, and many important documents, such as the constitution.
*** Chinatown Heritage Centre ***
This is a really fantastic place too, giving an authentic view of how some of the Chinese were treated when they came here. At one stage, men were brought - coolies - who were either sold when they first got here (the strong and the fit), or had to be housed in awful cramped quarters while awaiting sale, and some sick and weak were destined to die in an awful situation, not wanted.
The Heritage Centre is actually 3 restored shophouses along Pagoda Street which had many 'Coolie Houses', and houses thousands of these poor men.
The Chinese were first happy to arrive, praying their thankfulness on arrival when many others had died. Then, they ended up facing the 'four
evils' - opium, prostitution, gambling and secret societies/ 'cults'.
There was a display on the 'death houses' of Sago lane. Not wanting to die in their house, people paid to die in another place.
You hear many of the struggles of the regular person - the tailor, the housewife, the hawker, the prostitute...
There is a fascinating and sad area, that shows the recreations of residences of Chinatown. They were recreated from the stories of former occupants. They are cramped and dark. People share wooden beds, that become tables or whatever during the day. Whole families live in the size of the little guesthouse room I am staying in right now, with my single bed, small chair and small basin. In this area, they fit items for the baby, kitchen utensils, items that they sell, etc.
I saw, amongst other things:
A group of young coolies' room This room was actually an opium den. A fire once started there because of one of the men smoking.
Shoe seller's room This room was lived in by only one person. One woman barely had enough room still, to live, and
eat, and sleep... There are sacks of shoes everywhere in the room, which she dragged downstairs to her stall each morning.
Painter's family This room was lived in by the wife and 5 (!) daughters. The husband and 3 sons had to live elsewhere.
Also, on display, you could see the recreated Workshop, Tailor's shop, shared toilets (!!!) and shared kitchen.
It's a fascinating, fascinating place.