Philippines
Day 135
We had to get up before 4am in order to head to the airport for our manila flight so we were both feeling pretty tired. The flight itself was fine and we landed about 11am but as we had flown to a cheap out of town airport we then had a 2 hour bus transfer to the city of manila. We were also really annoyed that the bus cost $8 each as we both thought this was very expensive for Asia but as the airport was in the middle of nowhere there was not enough competition to drive prices down. Even when we got off the bus it was at another city outskirts bus terminal so we had to pay even more money for a taxi to the hostel.
We had pre-booked the hostel over the internet as it had very good reviews from previous guests so we didn't really know what to expect but we were both pretty surprised as the taxi started driving through a flavella like shanty town. The hostel itself was a nice building but had no name outside it and we both started to worry that maybe the hostel had closed down or been converted to some other use. We were very relieved when the neighbours unlocked the gates and let us inside. The hostel is actually just a nice apartment, with a kitchen and lounge area, where the bedrooms have been turned into dorms with the use of bunk beds.
We dropped off our bags and went to look around the local neighbourhood. Though it was clearly a very poor area it was also colourful and lively. Clearly the people here aren't used to seeing western tourists and we felt like were back in China again with all the attention that we were attracting. For some reason Filipinos tend to call all American (or western) men Joe, so people kept shouting 'Hi Joe' at us on the street which was freaky but funny.
As we didn't want to be out in that part of town after dark we had an early night ready for a big day of sightseeing the next day.
Day 136
As our hostel was a little way out of town we had to take an LRT train into the centre. Security on transport seems to be really tight as there are guards in each station checking everybody's bags before they are allowed onto the trains.
We decided to to walk through the streets of Manila to the Mall of Asia – the 2nd largest mall in the philippines as it is very famous and absolutely huge. Though we can't imagine where the actual biggest mall could be... We had a nice time looking around but again a lot of the shops were famous western chains that still want to charge western prices for their goods. There was also a huge hypermarket there so as we had access to a kitchen for the first time in 4 months we decided we would try and make our own dinner. As we were having a relatively cheap day we made spaghetti and splurged out on Brie, olives & a bottle of wine. The fillipino girl Mae, who runs the hostel was really interested in how simple it was to cook pasta & sauce in just 1 pan.
After dinner even though it was raining hard we decided to head back out to central Manila to go for a few drinks. During the taxi ride we passed through some gigantic puddles that were so deep the car was in danger of stalling but the taxi driver didn't seem too phased by it - he said 'oh it's just rainy season' and he didn't think there was much more rain forecast (this was 2 days before the typhoon hit manila). We found some really nice local bars where we had a few quiet drinks and then paid a visit to a bar that someone had told us about that. The bar was called Hobbit House and belongs to a man who is a massive fan of The Lord of the Rings. It's a themed bar where you walk through a big round door straight into middle earth and the bar is also fully staffed my Filipino dwarves. However it was very overpriced so we only stuck around for one drink.
Day 137
Thankfully the main Manila airport where we were catching our flights was much closer to the hostel than the airport we had flown into a few days beore. We got on the LRT train with all our backpacks (which was a bit naughty as big bags aren't allowed because they are deemed a security risk – but we played the naïve western card and got away with it) and were soon at the airport. Frustratingly all the cash machines we passed were very tempramental and wouldn't recognise our bank cards so we just had to hope that our money would last us till we reached a cash machine on Boracay. Unfortunately we weren't counting on the sneaky 'terminal fees' that we were charged when leaving manila and also on landing at Kalibo airport.
Once we landed at Kalibo we needed to catch a 2 hour minibus to the ferry port to get to Boracay Island. Unfortunately because we had been taxed so much at the airports and there were no currency exchange desks we didn't have enough pesos left to pay for the journey. We were trying to negotiate with the driver to take us to an ATM but we couldn't do it. Fortunately there was a Dutch guy called Phillip who was nice enough to pay the price for us and we were going to pay him back later once we found a cash machine.
When then jumped on the bus and then a ferry to get over to Boracay island and met a woman aloong the way that was offering accommodation at around the price we were looking for so we decided to jump on a tricycle (yes all five people) which was a little scary until we got the to hotel. We liked the room and the price was right so we checked in and found an ATM and payed Phillip back the money he lent to us.
It was pretty late by the time we checked in so we went out with Phillip and found an all you can eat restaurant on the beach front and did a little bar crawl before hitting the sack and sleeping in the nice comfy bed.
Day 138
The next day we woke up and the typhoon was hitting the island pretty hard. There were storm covers all over the beach front and it was throwing it down with rain. At this point we had no idea there was a typhoon hitting the country because we had been traveling and no one mentioned it to us.
We went for a walk around the shops and an amazing fresh seafood market in Boracay to kill some time (the beach was not really an option). Then because the weather was so bad we decided to head back to the room which had a TV and we watched some movies with one crocodile Australian movie being particularly bad.
After watching the movies we met Phillip again and went to a restaurant we found earlier that day and we grabbed some good cheap food and then headed to some more bars and met another dutch couple and had a few drinks before heading back to the room and grab some sleep.
Day 139
The weather really was not clearing up and it was still throwing it down with rain and the wind was really strong, watching the size of the waves on the beach was amazing but it was too wet to spend long outdoors. We spent more time looking round shops an in the internet cafes reading the news about the flooding in Manila.
In the evening we went to dinner in our hotel as it had an all you can eat mongolian barbeque. The premise was that you filled a bowl with all the vegetables and meat you would like, along with about 50 different sauces to chose from. You then take it over to a chef at a large outdoor wok who stirfrys it all for you and then brings it over to your table. The challenge, that the fillipinos seemed to be missing, was that you had to put the raw meat into the bowl that you would be eating your meal from so we became adept at creating cabbage lining / sesame seed coating for the raw chicken so that it hopefully didn't make contact with the bowl until it was cooked.
Day 140
This was the final day it was going to rain and there was still not much to do apart from plan the trip ahead. We had to go to the internet cafe and decide if we were going to palawan to see an underground river that was in the world natural wonders shortlist or if we should go island hopping. When we looked into the prices it would have cost a lot to go to Palawan so we decided to go island hopping to some of the places that most tourists don't get the chance to visit. So we knew we would wake up and go to a place called Iloilo which was on a different island to Boracay. Once we had worked this out and decided on a plan it was late afternoon and we decided to chill out for the afternoon as the last of the typhoon was blowing over.
That evening we decided to head back to the Mongolian BBQ because the food was fantastic and we could stuff our faces to our hearts content. Then we said good bye to Phillip and packed up our stuff ready to go to Iloilo.
Day 141
Now things are rarely as they seem when asking for distances and times in Asia and you might get some really quite different reports as to how far things are and how long they take to get there. Now some people said that Cebu would take 12 hours to get to which was a few islands away and others said it would take longer. Now what we didn't expect was it to take 10 hours to get to Iloilo which included a ferry and a long bus ride. We started about 9 and got to Iloilo when it was getting dark at about seven.
On the bus to Iloilo we met a lovely Australian couple called Shane and Jo. We talked at length about Australia and traveling as they've done quite a bit of traveling themselves. It was nice to use their guidebook to find out some more information about the Philippines and when we arrived we decided to get a room in the same hotel.
That night we were tired from all the traveling and went to a Mexican restaurant which was recommended in the guidebook in Iloilo. When we got there they had run out of the Mexican food ironically and they only had fried seafood, chicken and pizza left. We all ordered our food and began to have a few drinks and a chin wag. They invited us to go and stay with them in Brisbane later in our trip which was lovely and because we were traveling and they were working they picked up the tab for the food and drinks because they were so lovely (although we knew nothing about it).
We then went back to the hotel and we were going onto a place called Dumaguete and they were continuing onto another Island just off Iloilo because they were flying back to Manila soon.
Day 142
We woke and packed (again) and then dragged ourselves to a ferry terminal from Iloilo that would take us to Negros, which is another Island next to the one we were on. From a place called Bacolod we then had to catch another bus to Dumaguete.
While traveling on the bus to Dumaguete its amazing to see the locals living in the Philippines because the places we were traveling were not full of tourists and we were the only westerners. The houses and the people on the sides of the road were amazing, they were living in small houses and there were school children everywhere and we took quite a few pictures. The tricycles (which were a motorbike with a small side car were carrying far too many people for English standards but in the Philippines its standard.
When we finally got to Dumaguete we checked into a nice hotel called the Palwa Hotel which had the internet in the room so I could download some stuff from the internet and we could decide what to do next. We were either going to go to an Island recommended to us called Apo island that has amazing diving or something else.
That night we went and had to grab a McDonalds because that was the only food available because everything else was shut and we grabbed some food from a supermarket that was shutting so we didn't have time to get anything else. Then we hit the sack and went to bed. The next day we were going to go to a national park located near to Dumaguete.
Day 142
We awoke refreshed and ready to go. We found out where to get a jeepney from to take us to the entrance to the national park and from there we needed to ride on the back of motorbikes because the road was so bad to get to the national park.
When we got to the national park we were expecting to be able to hike and see some amazing wildlife but instead there was a road that took you to the famous twin lakes so we didn't get to hike anywhere. To make up for it, when we got there we were able to hire a kayak which we could take to a viewing platform between the two lakes which was lovely and peaceful. Then we took the kayak back after an hour and went back to the motorbikes and rode back to the highway where we could catch a jeepney back into town.
When we got back we decided to go out earlier than before to try and get some food and found an Indian restaurant and we dined on spinach and chickpea curries with naan, popadoms and rice. This was a nice change as we'd not had Indian food for a while.
After the food we decided to go back to the hotel and sleep after getting some information on Apo island before we went to bed
Day 143
When we awoke we logged onto the intenet and had a change of heart regarding where to go. Now Apo island was supposed to be beautiful but we were not going to dive there. Also they only had power for a short time during the night. So we did a little research and found a place called MoalBaol that sounded like what we were looking for with diving, beaches, waterfall and snorkelling. So that morning we decided to go there as well, so we had to catch another ferry over to Cebu Island where Moalbaol was. This again was another long trip but one interesting thing was the bus we got when we got to Cebu Island. The bus was a local bus and not air conditioned which made it a little warmer but everyone had the windows open and people would wave and shout as we drove past as they rarely see western people there.
When we reached Moalbaol we checked into the most basic room we had stayed in, in the backpackers lodge there and it was nice to know that we were going to be staying in the same place for two days. We then decided to go straight to the waterfall which was amazing but a little touristy with loads of people trying to sell you things, but the water was amazingly clear and blue.
When we got back to the hostel we decided to go out for some food which was nice and was local Filipino and the people in this place were so friendly. We had a few drinks and decided to hit the sack and get some rest after another long day travelling.
Day 144
When we woke up we deiced to try and find the white beach at the top of Moalbaol so we jumped into a tricycle and headed up the coast. There we found the white beach but the tide was in and it started to rain so we jumped into the sea to 'tick the box' and then went back to the hostel.
Back at the hostel we used the internet to book some flights back to Manila and also to check emails etc. Then we went out for something to eat and had a look on the rock beach in the rock pools but because the second typhoon was passing nearby the weather was getting pretty bad again.
That night we decided to go and have a few drinks and meet some more people. That night we met Daina and Luke who were a lovely American couple who lived in China and Tom and Dennis who were English and Fresh respectively who studied in Hong Kong. We had a good night having a couple of drinks and chatting the night away. There were also Filipino people there as well which was cool.
Day 145
We decided to head for Cebu the next day and woke up early and got a tricycle to the bus stop. While at the bus stop there were some Filipino guys there passing the time of day and drinking rum at 11:20 in the morning, so after both of us having a large shot of Rum and a little ice tea we were on our way to Cebu on another public bus which was going to take about three hours.
When we got to Cebu station we grabbed a taxi and went to the hostel that was in the guidebook. We unloaded the bags when we were there and had to try and find a cash machine. Now one of the things thats been troubling us is that the banks will lock your cards at any time when you take out money and nothing you can do will stop them from doing this. So we have a number of different accounts at different banks to overcome this. But by this time many of ouur accounts had been frozen so we had to take money out on the credit card to get by.
When we had paid for the hotel and had a quick bite to eat we were tired from all the travelling from the previous days and Cebu did not look like a very nice/safe place to stay so we slept and watched some TV before getting some takeaway pizza which was a bit of a novelty and then slept because the next day we had to fly back to Manila.
Day 146
We awoke and went to the airport and flew back to Manila on our final stretch of the Philippines tour. When we got back it was just as crazy as we had left it and the traffic was mental.
We got back to the hostel and the strange thing was that Manila was fine and was just the way we had left it despite the issues requiring international relief in the news and there was no flooding. It was nice to be back in the hostel and we dumped our bags and then went out to have a look at some of the sights that Manila had which we missed the first time we were there.
We went to an only Spanish fort there that was also taken over by the English which was nice but we've seen many old sights when we've been in England. Then we were walking along the river which was not as nice as you might think. And finally we hit a mall to do some shopping as we were getting a little low on some items. While we were there we also picked up some food so that we could cook again when we got back to the hostel. We decided to make shepherds pie, veggies and gravy!!! We couldn't wait. Again we decided to get a bottle of wine because we were missing it like a lot of things.
Once we finished the meal joe stayed up and watched some football on TV and Tracy went to bed. Finally joe went to bed and we had no real plans for the next day apart from going to the post office to send some letters to the student loads company.
Day 147
We woke up and tried to get everything ready post office and left (forgetting a few things) and grabbed the LRT to where we thought the post office was. We walked down and found it pretty easily as it was MASSIVE!!! Then we posted the letters and decided to grab some food as it was getting late in the day.
We went to a place called Aristocrat which served Filipino food but was not as cheap as we thought but there were still some dished on the menu that were cheap enough to eat. Once we left there we went back to the hostel and it was getting late and the weather was pretty hot so we grabbed some showers.
The other people in the hostel were all all going to a birthday party down the road from the hostel at a locals house and we were invited so we decided to tag along. It was a small street party and a girl there had turned 20 and we were all sitting around having a few drinks and chatting. The people from the Philippines are all so lovely they were all trying to buy us drinks despite the fact they really didn't have that much money.
While we were there they were telling both of us to get married and couldn't understand how western people could be together for years and still not get married. So the music came on and we all had a little dance in the street and we brought them some drinks because of their hospitality.
One strange thing was the mother who was walking around pregnant and in a grump while joe was talking to the husband who was more than a little drunk. It was only after a while that we learned she was due to give birth any moment. While we were sat there a little later there was some commotion from the back and she walked out, hailed down a tricycle and with a couple of other people drove off pretty casually. When we asked the drunkan husband where she had gone, his response was “to have a baby”. Apparently her water had broke and she was going into labor. He was very casual and just started talking about the same story as before. Husbands are not welcome at the birth so he was just drinking beer.
Then after the night had finished both of us went to bed for the last time in Manila and be us for the flight the next day.