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Asia » Philippines » Mountain Province » Sagada
July 5th 2010
Published: July 7th 2010
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Perched on a remote mountain top, Sagada has a reputation for being an idyllic back packer haven. From Banaue we took a 2 hour jeepney ride to Bontoc (the provicial capital) from there it was another hour to Sagada. This jeepney ride will likely be the most memorable of our trip to the Philippines. We decided to do as the locals do and ride on the roof of the vehicle. Sitting on our backpacks and gripping tightly on the roof rack we were treated to a magnificent view of rice terraces/ fields, mountain valleys and the Chico river.We also saw recent landslides which is a reminder that this is a very trecherous road. As we got closer to our destination we noticed more pine trees, cooler temperatures and an almost Alpine sorroundings. The town is indeed laid back, probably even moreso since we are visiting in the off season.
Here are some of the highlights of this part of tour trip:

* Jeepney ride into town( as I explained earlier). The only way to do this properly is to get on the roof and hold on tight.
* Hanging coffins and burial caves. This area of Luzon being so remote was difficult for the Spanish to fully convert to Catholicism. As a result the native population were able to cling to their traditions and rituals more than lowland people did. The coffins by Lumiang cave according to our guide range from as old as 500 years and as recent as 1986. The older ones are noticeably shorter due to the belief that being burried in the fetal position is like returning to the womb.
Spelunking aka caving. Since our legs have not fully recovered from the Batad hike, we opted for the shorter cave tour (2 hours instead of 4). Total descent of about 200 meters into the deep, dark and dank Sumaging cave. The first half of the descent is the most technical since it's the most slippery. We had to walk on slippery rocks at parts coated with mud mixed with bat dung. The second half of the descent was a lot more fun. We had to take off our shoes and continue barefoot. Surprisingly the cave floor and walls which looked smooth and slippery actually has a rough texture that provided traction. Our guide Greg (who we hired through the town hall tourist information) carried a gas lantern and provided us with strategies on how to keep out footing. In parts we had to crawl, scoot or use a rope to get even further in the cave. Greg pointed out several rock formations which resembled, among other things, curtains, an elephant, a turle and a vagina(his words not mine). At the bottom was a pool about 10 ft. wide, Brenda and John enjoyed the cold waters while I decided to keep dry.
* Bontoc Museum. Actually not in Sagada but on the way there we stopped at this delightful museum in Bontoc. Started by a Belgian missionary nun, this small museum houses pictures and artifacts of the indigenous people of the region. Including some grissly head hunting photos and artifacts (gong handles made of jaw bone, skulls, axe and shields). The practice did not die out until the middle part of the 20th century. There is also a garden with a simulated Ifugao village (several huts).

We only stayed 2 days in Sagada and missed out on it's other attractions. There is supposed to be good white water rafting on the Chico, hikes to Echo valley, more rice terraces and a waterfall. However for us the 2 days were enough for we have to return to Manila for a few days. From there Brenda heads back to Chicago and John and I continue on the a city I've been very excited to get to know, Bangkok.


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7th July 2010

You guys are fearless! What an adventure! I would have loved to see a picture of you on the top of the Jeepney! The cave looks amazing! :-) Michelle

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