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Published: July 21st 2012
First Part : Batanes (Basco City): Lovely Place of Wind and Drizzle Second Part : Batanes (Sabtang Island): How do you tame the waves? The Sunday Catholic mass was yet another challenge. The service was spoken in Ivatan, a totally different language from the other three Filipino languages I know. But upon recognizing the presence of the ‘tourists’, the priest then carried on with the homily in
Tagalog (Philippine National Language) and welcomed us in Basco. Although I did not understand most of what was said during the liturgy, it was one of the most solemn services I’ve attended, clearly not done in haste.
It rained the whole morning until it hushed into subtle drizzles later in the afternoon; we were finally able to go biking! I was very much on a biking mode excitedly pedalling on my old Dutch-Style bicycle on our way to the Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel three kilometres away from the town. It turned out to be an effortful pedalling adventure that I consequently had to walk my bicycle uphill. A sore leg is expected tomorrow. We toured the WWII dirt tunnel ourselves then went further up the mountain. There we stayed for a while to enjoy the serene environment and immerse ourselves in a quiet satisfaction brought about by the calmness
of the atmosphere.
Back in town from the tunnels, we went videoke singing at the
Batanes Seaside Lodge Restaurant while enjoying bottles of sweet wine. The place was all ours until we had to be kicked out because the place has been reserved for the rest of the afternoon, so we jumped back onto our bikes and carried on with our biking jaunt. The ever present cold wind has been a challenge specially because all our stinky jackets were being washed at the laundry, and the rain even joined in as we went searching for a beach farther away from town. We actually wanted to go swimming but I was wearing my jeans, definitely not the best outfit to wrestle the crazy waves with and so we just contented ourselves with a stroll along the rocky shore. By half past five we had to head back since riding bicycles is prohibited by sundown and we had to return them before six, else the rental shop will be reprimanded.
It has been gloomy and rainy in the past days, I have been praying for even just one view of sunset and a clear sky for a sunrise. We even did the rain
dance, to no avail.
I woke up the next day surprisingly not feeling any soreness on my legs, but also no sunrise still. This day we joined the Basco/Batan Island tour offered by the Seaside Lodge which took us to…
...the TUKON CHURCH
(or the Mt. Carmel Church) located on the outskirts of Basco. Build with stones, wood, and cement; it looked liked the traditional Ivatan stone house but with a modern feel, I loved the church instantly. Vines spread above the doorway, clinging to the wall and to the wooden posts positioned at both sides of the church entrance. Going inside it felt cosy, a warm escape from the chilly wind and the drizzle outside. It had coloured glass windows and carved wood door, and its ceiling was adorned with life size painting of Saints. The church is a lovely work of art with its charming carpentry, stained glass touch, and its tranquil setting; if I had to be wed it has to be here!
…the PAG-ASA WEATHER STATION
(Philippine Atmospheric, Geophysical and Astronomical Services Administration) is located farther up on Tukon. From there we had a nice view of the Pacific Ocean, the South China
Sea, and the fantastic Batan Island landscape.
…we passed by the BASCO IDJANG
(Mountain Fortress) going downhill. In the old days it served as a watch tower during tribal wars and was also a place of refuge during the Spanish era.
…the VALUGAN BOULDER BEACH shoreline was pretty much covered with boulders and pebbles.
…the next stop was the VAYANG ROLLING HILLS. It was so windy my eyes teared; we were literally being blown away! Now we understand what those cement posts were for. It was a struggle with the wind, but nonetheless, the view was so beautiful. Next to Chamantad-Tinyan in Sabtang, this is my second favourite hilltop in Batanes.
… the FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH
(or Rakuh a-Idi Spring) can be reached on foot from the small fishing village of Diura in the municipality of Mahatao. I get to admire the beautiful view of the sea while hiking through the mountainside before finally arriving 20(ish) minutes later at what seemed to be a shrine. The story of the ‘fountain’ goes –
A Chieftain’s young daughter got seriously ill and not a single medicine man could find a cure for her. One night the Chieftain dreamt about bathing his daughter at the fountain; he did so and his daughter was cured at last.
…the splendid MARLBORO HILLS
(or Racuh A Payaman) was next in the day’s itinerary. It was another bout with the strong wind + rain but the sight was definitely gorgeous, what more can I say.
…the HONESTY SHOP found in the Municipality of Ivana wasn’t as impressive as I thought it would be, but nevertheless it continues to be a symbol of the Ivatan’s truthfulness. Souvenir items are displayed unattended inside the store and payments are just dropped in an improvised safe.
…VAHAY NI DAKAY
(House of Dakay) also in Ivana is the oldest traditional stone house in Batanes. The last known relative, Lola
(Granny) Ida, of the original owner still resides in the house. She is also the most photographed person in Batanes, too bad she was napping when we dropped by.
…the last stop was souvenir shopping back in Basco.
Thursday was supposed to be our sixth and last day in Batanes…but surprise surprise! Our flight going back to Manila was cancelled due to bad weather.
Cancelled Flights galore! Yay! I wish I can say
I was bummed, but in all honesty I wasn’t ready to leave yet. I was more than pleased to stay in Batanes for one more day.
After securing an extended stay at the Batanes Seaside Lodge, we went to lunch at Pension Ivatan Restaurant which is just a few steps away from the Airport gates. We finally had the elusive Ivatan Platter which consists of Supas
(or Turmeric Yellow Rice), Tatus
(or Coconut Crabs), Mixed Ivatan Salad, Lunis/Lunies
(their version of pork adobo) - made of liempo, Payi
(or Lobster), Uvud Balls
(made of pork, flying fish and banana trunk), Dried Gabi
(a variety of Taro), and assorted grilled foods like chicken and squid. A hearty meal it was!
For our spare day in Batanes, we decided to visit the Municipality of Uyugan and ended at one of its barangays, Kayvaluganan. It is a coastal village that reminded me of home. We just walked around, watched fishermen haul their day’s catch
(dear flying fish, sorry for eating lots of your relatives during our stay), kids running after each other by the school ground, getting unwanted attention from them, and hiking up a hill and marvelled on their beautiful
scenery.
The view of sunrise, sunset, and my blue skies hasn’t been so elusive, but I will always remember Batanes and its raw beauty, its peaceful atmosphere, and all the thrilling adventure it could offer.
I remember reading about Batanes and the Ivatans in one of our textbooks back in grade school, and I used to dream about someday being able to go to this ‘planet’. It was a dream, now I can finally mark it off my bucket list ♥
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liliram
liliram
Love it!
Another one in my bucket list. All my friends seem to have gone ..... Just need to do this. Perhaps next summer.