Pissed Pakistanis and Darlow the National Disgrace

So the film crew that was in town organised a night of "traditional" Hunza dancing in order that they could film it for their documentary. All the westerners in town were invited as guests. The sword dancing was particularly cool. All sounds fine. Until that part of the evening when they ask the tourists to dance. Now I know that only a few of you have actually seen me dance, but I'm sure the rest of you can imagine. Not a pretty sight.


So, anyway, as well as being interviewed for this docu, I am now also playing a staring role in the dancing section. Very embarassing.


Thankfully, all the Pakistanis were drunk (this country is not as dry as one might expect - especially where I am where people follow the Ismali branch of Islam, which is generally a little more progressive and liberal).



Anyway, the last 3 days have been spent around a village called Minapin, which is just an hour down the KKH from Karimabad. There was no room in the jeep, so we travelled on the roof, along with a few sacks of potatoes, some building supplies and a few locals. You get a pretty good view, but need to watch your head for the electric cables!


According to the book at reception, we were the second group of visitors this year.


Minapin is the base for the trek up to Rakaposhi's base camp. And what a trek it is. The official literature suggests you do the walk in three days - most people however do it in two. For me, it took about 5.5 hours to climb the 1300 metres, and 3 hours to go down. I think I'm starting to get a bit fitter.


The views are, as always around here, stunning - taking in Rakaposhi (7780 metres), Diran (7200 metres), Ultar 2 (7300 metres) and numerous other mountains, together with the breaktaking Minapin glacier that goes on and on and on for kilometres.


Highly recommended to those in the vicinity - I think it's worth a diversion to get here.



Pakistan is now pushing Syria as my favourite country ever. The people are increadibly warm and genuinely hospitable. I have lost count of the number of free cups of tea, rides in jeeps, helpful hints etc that I have been given.


Part of me wants everyone realise what a great place this is, but then again I like it just the way it is, without the hordes of ignorant tourists who might currently be frightened to come here.



The weather has unfortunately turned sh*te here, so I'm back in Karimabad until the sun returns.



A few hopefully helpful hints for those following on the Rakaposhi base camp trek:


1) There is a direct jeep between Aliabad and Minapin - leaving anywhere between 10 and 12 in the morning, i.e. whenever it gets full. It costs 50 rupees and takes just over an hour


2) The Diran Guest House in Minapin will slowly stop accepting backpackers, and concentrate instead on package groups. A new backpacker guest house is being built in the village, and will be run by the previous owner of Diran (called Israr) who is a cool guy. In the meanwhile, the dorm at Diran costs 100 Rupees


3) The trek description in the lonely planet is out of date. The trek now starts by following the jeep track next to the new mosque.


4) The locals are clubbing together to improve the path up, and to set up a dining tent etc at base camp. To fund this they are asking for 150 rupees for each tent pitched at base camp.

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