Dwarves Among Giants: Photos 21 to 31

Most of our dreams of Pakistan had involved finally getting up north to the giants of the Karakorum Range. Here the mighty Indus rushes out of the Himalaya and Pakistan has 3 different huge mountain ranges meeting; the Karakorum, Hindu Kush and Himalaya. It really is one of the highest places on earth and many of the world’s largest glaciers adorn the peaks.

Jolt, crash shudder…this was how I awoke to see my first glimpse of Pakistan’s Northern Areas, this was not really part of my dream. We were on a coach and the fact that I had been asleep at all was a miracle, Robin was not so fortunate and had been conscious of the entire 26 hour journey from Lahore to Gilgit. The coach was old and not the VIP service, this meant we had no leg room. Our discomfort was made worse by the fact that we were on the back of the coach and so every jolt caused us to lift from our seats and then crash back into them. Oh where was my comfy bike saddle? Oh yes we had left it in Lahore, I was still too weak to cycle after my stint in

Full Text Entry: Dwarves Among Giants

Great Post! There were so many thoughts on reading this blog. Like, "Wow, Pakistan. I KNEW it was safe to travel there!". ---"I'll bet the food in Pakistan was good". ---"That Yak is at once surreal, beautiful and ugly." --- "Damn those are some huge mountains!" ---"That Batura Galcier is otherworldly, I MUST see it someday."----"Wait, are they backpacking in the snow in Pakistan at 4000 meters high at the Chinese border?" -- "Commie Bastards!!"

Thankyou for your post. I travelled to Hunza & Passu in 1996 & also stayed at the Haider Inn with Haider. A fantastic place. Thanks for bringing back the memories.

Hi Robin and Erika. We continue to be boggled by your adventures! So sorry to hear about your crap treatment by the Pakistani police and about Erika's scary illness. We keep reading the good bits and thinking "If only we had the nerve to do something like this!" and then reading the bad bits and thinking "Mad b***ers! No way would you catch us doing something like this!" Things are not nearly so interesting in the Lake District. Work on my project at CWT is endlessly frustrating and Shirl still doesn't know how she will come out of the latest Park Authority reorganisation. Ah, well! So it goes. Take care of yourselves and keep the blogs coming. Loads of Love and hugs. D&S

Hi. I live in karachi, and just happened to search 'pakistan travel blogs' on google, came across your blog. It's very interesting how you two have decided to travel across so many thousands of miles on a bike. It was very sad to hear about the experience you had with the poilcemen. Sadly, that's what happens when corruption and poverty come together. And given Pakistan's political atmposphere, it just makes things a whole lot worse. A lot of the rural areas of Pakistan do present a sordid scene. Just hope you don't have to encounter any more officials who like to flaunt and abuse their authority while here.(Though apparently you're almost done with the Pakistani Leg of your journey). Good Luck and have Fun!!

Keep 'em coming!

I spent three months in Pakistan. My friend Zahra lives in Altit. Her family own property very close to the Eagle's Nest Hotel. I sat with her family and friends on the floor of a mud hut sharing a meal of potatoes and greens. Afterwards a cake bread and chai. I didn't understand what was being said but we laughed and connected. I stay in touch with my new found friends and new family. I crossed the Passu glacier while in Pak. I also got invited to three polo matches in Gilgit. One of which I was guest and got to throw the game ball! I met the chief of Police and was given a police cap. I also started a small fast food resturant on main street in Gilgit with a man named Haij Baig. I made many friends and am looking forward to returning. I saw many of the places you have photographed and it makes me very homesick to return to this wonderful country. I could go on for hours of all the wonderful experiences. I too went to the China border and videoed the Yak. People should not be afraid of going to Pakistan. The people are very friendly. Thank you for your pics. It has made my heart feel warm.

Great Post! There were so many thoughts on reading this blog. Like, "Wow, Pakistan. I KNEW it was safe to travel there!". ---"I'll bet the food in Pakistan was good". ---"That Yak is at once surreal, beautiful and ugly." --- "Damn those are some huge mountains!" ---"That Batura Galcier is otherworldly, I MUST see it someday."----"Wait, are they backpacking in the snow in Pakistan at 4000 meters high at the Chinese border?" -- "Commie Bastards!!"

Thankyou for your post. I travelled to Hunza & Passu in 1996 & also stayed at the Haider Inn with Haider. A fantastic place. Thanks for bringing back the memories.

Hi Robin and Erika. We continue to be boggled by your adventures! So sorry to hear about your crap treatment by the Pakistani police and about Erika's scary illness. We keep reading the good bits and thinking "If only we had the nerve to do something like this!" and then reading the bad bits and thinking "Mad b***ers! No way would you catch us doing something like this!" Things are not nearly so interesting in the Lake District. Work on my project at CWT is endlessly frustrating and Shirl still doesn't know how she will come out of the latest Park Authority reorganisation. Ah, well! So it goes. Take care of yourselves and keep the blogs coming. Loads of Love and hugs. D&S

Hi. I live in karachi, and just happened to search 'pakistan travel blogs' on google, came across your blog. It's very interesting how you two have decided to travel across so many thousands of miles on a bike. It was very sad to hear about the experience you had with the poilcemen. Sadly, that's what happens when corruption and poverty come together. And given Pakistan's political atmposphere, it just makes things a whole lot worse. A lot of the rural areas of Pakistan do present a sordid scene. Just hope you don't have to encounter any more officials who like to flaunt and abuse their authority while here.(Though apparently you're almost done with the Pakistani Leg of your journey). Good Luck and have Fun!!

Keep 'em coming!

I spent three months in Pakistan. My friend Zahra lives in Altit. Her family own property very close to the Eagle's Nest Hotel. I sat with her family and friends on the floor of a mud hut sharing a meal of potatoes and greens. Afterwards a cake bread and chai. I didn't understand what was being said but we laughed and connected. I stay in touch with my new found friends and new family. I crossed the Passu glacier while in Pak. I also got invited to three polo matches in Gilgit. One of which I was guest and got to throw the game ball! I met the chief of Police and was given a police cap. I also started a small fast food resturant on main street in Gilgit with a man named Haij Baig. I made many friends and am looking forward to returning. I saw many of the places you have photographed and it makes me very homesick to return to this wonderful country. I could go on for hours of all the wonderful experiences. I too went to the China border and videoed the Yak. People should not be afraid of going to Pakistan. The people are very friendly. Thank you for your pics. It has made my heart feel warm.