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Asia » Nepal » karnali river April 3rd 2011

Tuesday - March 29 It's wake-up at 6 am, breakfast at 6:30, off to the jungle at 7. I find I will have 2 guides, Sundar and Padam. I think I get 2 because I expressed an interest in birdwatching and Padam is the native expert. As we walk to the park entrance which is quite a walk, we pass through several communities and many empty resorts. I am the current show on the road since there are not that many tourists here right now. Little kids yell "Bye-bye-hello" and wave. Once we are inside the park, I get the Safety Talk, here's the short version : zig-zag to get away from a charging rhino, as a last resort stand behind a big tree; be very still when the elephant charges; climb to the top of ... read more

Asia » Nepal » karnali river April 3rd 2011

Wednesday- March 30 This morning we don't walk to the park entrance, as Sonja is taking a jeep tour - what a wuss - and we are hitching a ride. It later turns out to be a wise choice on her part. We get dropped off at a trail head where we will head for another part of the river through different habitat, Sal forest, in the hopes of seeing new and different birds and what the heck how about another tiger. Padam is finding the birds by sight and sound and we get to the river, cross a rickety wooden bridge and walk to another bend in the river where we hop down and walk along the bank trail. During the walk Padam casually mentions, "It's going to rain, I hear thunder." We all smile. ... read more

Asia » Nepal » karnali river December 1st 2008

I am back in India now. Back to the urine drenched streets and the relentless touts. Back to finding the cheapest hotel room with the minimum number of dead rats. Back to dealing with Tuktuk drivers with acute attention deficit disorders. Back to India. And I love it. To be fair, Nepal boasts all these charming traits as well, but it all feels much more touristy around Kathmandu and Pokhara, which covers the "real" Nepal under a soft, Western-sensitive blanket full of Gurkha Beer and buffalo steaks. Do not get me wrong, I enjoyed my time in the tourist swarming areas, but I am no tourist (or so I tell myself) I am a backpacker who lives for the road blocks and striking, the Roti and Daal Bhat, the riding on the roofs of local buses, ... read more




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