I am back in India now. Back to the urine drenched streets and the relentless touts. Back to finding the cheapest hotel room with the minimum number of dead rats. Back to dealing with Tuktuk drivers with acute attention deficit disorders. Back to India. And I love it. To be fair, Nepal boasts all these charming traits as well, but it all feels much more touristy around Kathmandu and Pokhara, which covers the "real" Nepal under a soft, Western-sensitive blanket full of Gurkha Beer and buffalo steaks. Do not get me wrong, I enjoyed my time in the tourist swarming areas, but I am no tourist (or so I tell myself) I am a backpacker who lives for the road blocks and striking, the Roti and Daal Bhat, the riding on the roofs of local buses,
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