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Published: June 12th 2012
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Namaste from Kathmandu!
The 3 weeks have accidentally turned into 3 months so I will try to be as succinct as I can with this one!
What a lively fun bright place full of contradiction. A place with the purest Himalayan air and scenery, and also the cleanest rubbish I have ever seen kept dust-free by neverending sweeping. Its probably this clean waste that must be providing magical powers to the holy cows which survive on a diet of it when living on islands of waste in the putrid smelling river. The cows perplex me. I love cows. It is illegal to kill a cow so no beef is produced here, except in tourisat areas as they are 'Christian' cows that have been used to provide the beef. Either way there are alot of happy freerange cows here resulting in many a 'round-a-cow' on city streets. This always makes me laugh when we are cruising in one of Nepals deathcabs - the busted up white Suzuki cars.
People here are so ingeneous and optinmisitc at achieving practical goals with no means. There are daily 10 hour scheduled power cuts due to insufficient power as much of the new
Laurabina La
Looks like we are on the moon! hydro-power is sold to China and India to raise funds. As seen by the large number of strikes (bandh) that all people partake in as the only way they feel they can be heard - two recent strikes resulted in many deaths and injuries as the strike leaders physically remonstrated those continuing to work as taxi drivers by stoning them, and setting roadblocks which stopped ambulances travelling. Either way I know it makes me feel safe, calm and totally unriled when I see the camoflage sporting police marching the streets with their sticks and semi automatic weapons in hand.
Thamel has been our home for our non-mountain time with a full western menu supply of spag bol and baked beans to munch on when the constant Dahl Bat has become a little too much! Fantastic live music scene with talented cover bands galore each evening, resulting in us attending an anti-establishment old school punk gig which ended in a police raid with associated sticks...
Most of our time has been spent on the Langtang and Helenbu Treks and Annupurna Base Camp (ABC). The Langtang began with a death defying 9 hour bus journey around roads filled with rock
Pokhara Lake
Some random long haired hippy rowing... slides and hairpin bends with such highlights as a goat being beheaded beside the bus, and a drunk old lady throwing up her noodles and peas beside my feet. After alighting this heavenly ride I decided we were NOT doing the 6 day walk which involved taking the return bus journey but were instead walking the whole way back to Kathmandu taking 14 days. The walk was tough but I was easily distracted by endless donkeys, yaks, and goats and was aided no end by a stick I found and named Ernest. There were many porters working for tour groups on this trip which I spent much time thinking about. Treking provides a large employment opportunity over the whole Himalaya region however it is very tough to see sweating elderly men in flip flops climb to 4610m carrying huge North Face bags filled with trekkers spare clothes - just wash them or smell! The views were astounding but I really relied on digestive biscuits being force fed to me in order to have enough energy - Turns out I am allergic to altitude.
The ABC trek was insanely hot resulting in face sweats by 8.30am meaning most days we
If only we knew....
... day 3 of ABC. We would be right under those peaks in a couple of days! were up by 5 and in bed by 8. The only cold respite was climbiong over glaciers which was a little hairraising as we did not have crampons / ropes or a guide - eek!The views of Machupichure, Annapurna, Gangapurna and other peaks from ABC really did provide 'an amphitheatre' at the base camp. I doubt I will ever see anything as breathtaking as that landcape in my life again, sunset and sunrise at that place are something special. Recovery was definitely necessary as even the 'downhill day' I was promised was a little off when we had to climb 1300m. Rewarded ourselves with massages and as it was my first whole body experience I was unsure how intimate these were. For reference if you leave with soley bruised boobs and a red face you are doing well.
Headed to a sweaty chitwan national park where our walking safari revealed 6 rhino in bathing pools. Our guide told us to hide behind a tree or run in zig zags upon being charged as their sight is bad. Turns our upon rhino charge my fight or flight reaction is FLIIIIIIIIIIIIGHT and the zig zag advice went out the window and
Sunrise from MBC
With our third muskateer! my best Usain Bolt impression was laid out as the crow flies. Scariest Thing Ever. Got to help bathe an elephant in the local river who took much enjoyment at throwing me off into the river but I quickly forgave him!
Such a hotchpotch fantastic place and am sad to be leaving, but we are off to India on Saturday with associated 17 hour mountainous bus journey so wish us luck!
So that didnt turn out to be so short afterall - sorry!
Lots of love
A x x
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neils dad
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great photos, and stories.
the scenery looks great, although it seems you had to walk and climb hard to get there, you will never forget these great travel moments. chris xxx