Goin to Kathmandu

The only thing I knew about Nepal before coming here is that they invented that less-than-clever combination of vanilla/chocolate/strawberry ice cream. Or is that NEA-politan? Well now I know one thing for certain about Nepal-- it has the most gorgeous scenic drives I've ever been on. I'm not saying it has the best scenery (though it could easily contend) but it simply has the best scenery from just the highways-- passing along hillsides overlooking steep, lush valleys, with fantastic shades of green and yellow foliage and white sandy beaches and emerald streams

Our Tibetan driver left us at the Chinese border town, Zhangmu, and we were then on to Nepal. The border crossing was surprisingly quick and easy-- in Kodari, on the Nepal side, 10 mins and $30 US for a 60-day visa and we were free to roam the country. Well, to roam those parts away from the areas of internal warring between the Nepali government and rebel Maoists (communist sect that formed in the mid-90s with the mission to awaken the sedentary government to the imbalance in the country's prosperity. They had garnered strong support from the impoverished rural farmers but've since created an ill reputation for themselves by terrorising those same hillside people, employing tactics of extortion and torture).

We wanted to get to the safe-haven of Kathmandu, the capital (and perhaps the only qualifiable "city" in Nepal) which was 5 hours away. The rumour was that there were plenty of available cars for hire at the border- usually costing 2000 Rupees (Rs) ($30 US). We arrived and there was one guy with a 4-seat Suzuki Maruti (I guess Suzuki makes cars too-- probably with the same engine as their motorcycles- It looks like a 70's Chevelle) asking for $50 US. We decided to walk up and down the path looking for more options but apparently it's low season and there were no other cars for hire. So we asked about the local bus- cheap (only 160 Rs) but it was initially to be our last option as it's a bumpy ride and you're crammed in with all the locals and it takes forever passing through the several military checkpoints along the way (there were 4 total). Taking the public bus, we were told every passenger is required to get off at each checkpoint taking at least an extra half hour each time- so we desperately wanted to locate private transportation. We came across one entrepreunerial bus operator who said he'd rent out an entire bus to us for 6000. There were 4 of us, so that would have come out to 1500 each which was still a bit high. Luckily, we found another group of 4 in the same predicament and for roughly $10 each, a 4 ton silver (with flaking blue paint and spots of rust) bullet was ours. It only took us 5 hrs to reach Kathmandu.

We were a bit spotty on what we were going to do while here. Again, neither Tibet nor Nepal were part of our original itinerary so we weren't at all prepared (read: did not buy the Lonely Planet guides). But having laid eyes upon the myriad conveniences within the capital's foreigner-district, Thamel, where everyone speaks English and you're within walking distance of any international cuisine so desired: Indian, Italian, Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Tex-Mex (I still don't know what that is, but they have it here!)-- and especially coming from the deprived areas of Tibet (I don't mean deprived in a cultural way, but in regards to menu selection) we thought we could relax here for quite a while.

The real activity in Nepal is to go trekking. Head east to Everest (Sagarmatha around these parts) or west to the Annapurnas or anywhere beyond the Kathmandu valley to get out to nature. However, having just come off a week long excursion in Tibet (so what if it was vehicle-supported) we decided against arranging another trip. More importantly, there's evidently quite a risk of venturing out beyond the valley, when you're then treading in Maoist territory. There's currently a cease-fire, and leaders of the Maobadi have formally announced that they have no intention of harming foreigners anyway- in fact, they welcome the tourist dollars that help the economy. But they will ask for a "donation" should you run into them on the hillsides or at a camp resort (we've read about some travelers having to part with $100 US or so, along with electronics and jewelry). But we're also concerned over the leaflets posted all around regarding 3 separate women travelers, all foreigners, who have disappeared over the last few months while out trekking-- makes you feel less guilty when you decide to just stay within the city boundary to relax with a coffee or beer while watching the city bustle from a rooftop terrace. Rather than explore the mountains, we were content with exploring a bowl of ice cream (not the chocolate/vanilla/strawberry kind).

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