Day 4-5 of my 14 day trek to Everest Base Camp

The night before, I was convinced that my trek would be over and that I would be returning to Lukla to get a plane back to Kathmandu because of how I was feeling. However, this morning, when my guide asked what I wanted to do, I said that I would like to try to continue. It's the determined bit in me, I think. I was feeling better than the previous 2 days but didn't know how far I would get. So, we had brekkie and set off for Tengboche, the next destination. As we left, I started getting pins and needles and a pain in my fingers and hands and also pins and needles in my feet. When I took my gloves off and looked at my hands I could see the veins in my fingers pulsating. That I found a bit worrying because nothing like that has ever happened before. I wondered if it had anything to do with the Diomax I had taken the night before. My guide seemed to think it might so, as far as I was concerned, I wouldn't take that medication again. Later that day, I found out that this was a side effect of the medication.

The first half of the journey was quick and I actually enjoyed it. On the way, I stopped off to use an outside toilet that was just a wooden hut with a hole in the ground and a square cut out for a window, although there was no glass. Surprisingly, it didn't phase me at all. I must be getting used to non-flushing holes in the ground now because that is mainly what you find whilst trekking in this region of Nepal.

After stopping for lunch we proceeded onward to our next destination. This was the toughest part of the day. It was all uphill - again! It was hard ging but not as difficult as the trek to Namche Bazar, for which I was thankful. When we reached Tengboche (3,860m/12,664ft with an oxygen level of 60-64%), I was desperate for the loo again. It was another outside toilet - ahhhh!!! But...we you need to go! This was definitely the most basic guesthouse so far. There was an inside toilet (not western style) but no running water, basin or mirror inside. It was outside (running water, basin and mirror). I have never seen before. It made brushing teeth and washing very difficult because it was very cold and, obviously, not private. As I am sure you can guess, there was no shower either.

When we arrived (my guide and I) met up with a couple who were at the same stage of their trek as me and heading for the same destination. They had a guide and a porter. We introduced ourselves and then went to the local monastry because the monks were having prayers and we were allowed to watch. We walked a short distance to the monastry, went in and sat down cross-legged at the side. It was interesting to be a part of it and we were even given tea by the monks because that is part of their service, it seems. Afterwards, one of the monks asked which country I was from. When I told him he was very excited and said that he would be going later this year to visit a friend in Manchester. While I was in the Monastry my camera battery ran out of charge.

When we arrived back at the guesthouse, Richard (one of the other trekkers) asked if anyone wanted to play cards. I was not esctatic about the idea but agreed as there was nothing else to do. To my surprise I really enjoyed it. We played a few different games but the one that kept us all entertained was a Nepali card game called Dhumbal (or something like that). Apparently it is similar to Gin Rummy. Having played card games for a few hours (with food in between) I went to my room at 8.30am. I tried to charge my camera battery but it wouldn't work. OMG, can you believe it? I am on my way to see the tallest mountain in the world and my camera stops working. Maybe after some sleep I will work out if I can get it working - let's hope!

Well...I had the best night's sleep of the trek so far but I was awoken by my guide at 4.30am - typical! He woke me up because there was a really good view of Everest from outside the guesthouse. I was a bit disorientated but I got out of bed, pulled on some clothes and went outside. Joanna and Richard were already out there with their guide. As I walked over, I suddenly realised that we were surrounded by the most magnificant huge mountains (many of which were snow covered). It was then that I got my first sighting of Everest - wow! I only had my mobile phone to take pictures because I still had to try and get my camera working again.

I couldn't go back to sleep then and couldn't get my camera battery to charge unfortunately so that is it. I will have to use my mobile phone camera for the rest of the trek. I can't believe it. Yet another setback - why me, I thought.

We trekked to Dingboche (4,410/14,468ft with an oxygen level of 57-60%). I felt pretty good and the journey was enjoyable because of the fabulous setting that surrounded us. We arrived at Dingboche and checked in. This had slightly better facilities than the previous guesthouse which surprised but pleased me. The toilet inside but there was no sink at all. However, the owners put a bucket with a tap on a small table with a bowl underneath for brushing teeth near the toilet.

I really wanted to speak to my mum about the house to find out what was happening. It still hadn't been rented out when I left Kathmandu - unbelievable I know! But, I couldn't ring anyone. Lots of places are closed because it is low season - guesthouses, Internet cafes etc. It's understandable because, out of the 3 guesthouses that we had stayed at, we were the only people (me and my guide) staying at 2 of them. This was no exception. There was one phone in the village that I could use to dial an international number and it didn't have a signal. That left me feeling rather stressed.

---

---