P@**ed off in Pisang.

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Well as you will have surmised I have been back sake and sound in Pokhara for the last couple of days and I'm going to finish telling you about my trip in one go. Photos will have to wait until I get back however as it is quite expensive to get the photos put onto DVD and I want to spend the money on massages instead. Obviously.

People kept asking me how the trek compared to Everest Base Camp. It was surprisingly difficult to answer. A lot of people had heard that the EBC trek was a lot harder. I'm not sure. The distances are longer with Annanpurna and the facilities more basic (though the food was better). Only saw one sit down toilet along the whole trek (toilets again! sorry!). Also seeing Everest was such a passion and goal for me - almost a pilgrimage that the AC wasn't. Though as we progressed, getting over the pass at Thorung La (5416m) began to become our overriding goal, the focus of our existence, especially as we met so many people coming back having not made it and there was much talk of snow at the top and the pass being closed. AC is much more a journey in its truest sense - with the EBC you go to Base Camp, turn round and come back. With the Circuit you are on a journey - retracing your steps is something you DO NOT WISH TO DO especially as parts of the path are in such bad condition. There was less of an obvious spiritual element that is so much more prevalent on the EBC trek as well. Although that changed a bit the higher we climbed.

The Circuit is part of the old Salt Route to Tibet. But the path is shocking in places. You teeter on a 5 inch ledge above a tumultous river hundreds of feet below. No joke if like me you've got really appalling balance and buggered knees. Those were the bad parts for me. That and the freezing cold, the dirt, the toilets (have I mentioned them yet?) the dogs that all start barking just after you zip up youir sleeping bag and switch off your head torch, the anxiety over altitude and the day to day stress of trekking. The really great parts were the walking which was fantastic, being constantly surrounded by mountains, getting back in touch with what really matters in life, getting to know our Nepali porters, the laughter and jokes, finally managing a poo after a week....

A real low point of the trek was Pisang, the last stop before 2 days of acclimatisation in Manang. 6 days into the trek it is definitely COLD and as we arrived it was pouring with freezing cold rain. For some reason that day I had no energy - I think just tired and needed a rest and the lodge was filthy. The most noxious toilet I have ever seen - you had to breathe through your mouth, roll your trousers up, shut your eyes and think of England (or in fact, don't - and especially NOT my bathroom - far too distressing). Not even a bucket of water handy to wash whatever down. No running water within 100 feet. Very very trying. Later that night we sat in a smoky, dark room, trying to eat food we couldn't see but I think was macaroni. A real low point.

While we all huddled pathetically together in the dark, upstairs we could hear the most wonderful singing - all our porters were singing and dancing and entertaining themselves. Made you think.

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