If all that glitter were gold ...

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Okay... to my extreme frustration it seems my last update didn't come through - oh the reliance of Indian cyber cafes.

So I'm in Nepal and back to the tedious job of blogging via mobile.

The last time I updated you we were about to leave Orchha on an overnight train for Allahabad. It was pretty uneventful although... remember my rather positive description of the smell of India? Turns out there are times and places when the colourful surrounds can launch a serious assault on your senses. Some train stations in particular. But we survived.

Out of the 6 girls only 4 of us got off at Allahabad - the other girls kept on to Varanasi to avoid dehydration. The rest of us just couldn't imagine skipping a cruise on the Ganges although at times on the trip we may have wondered if that was wise.

We had 3 boats waiting at the river and it was seriously cool.One was for the kitchen, the other two just for us and nicely laid out with pillows and shaded with sheets of cotton. Sounds like a dream? It was also about 45 degrees with little by way of a breeze. The guys that row these boats must be invincible because all we could manage was to wallow in our own sweat and watch the bank stream by. Oh, and eat freshly cooked food that was totally awesome. Definitely worth the experience of "taking care of business" by pulling onto the river bank and simply relieving yourself a few metres in. I'd like to say I've become quite adept at the whole activity...

The Ganges itself is pretty dry at this time of year, about half the width it would be after monsoon. It's brown, of course, and none but Neetu and Tink were game enough to take a dip. After witnessing a dog ripping into the carcass of a cow in the shallows taking a swim wasn't an idea I could stomach.

We pulled onto a sandbank before sunset to spend the night. Although we had basic tents set up we were all pretty set on just sleeping in the open - it was just too hot. But totally worth it. We for a really good look at the stars and those familiar with the northern hemisphere layout made a show of pointing out the constellations, pretty cool. We even had music from a village across the river to set the mood. Seriously, these remote villagers must know how to party as they continued long into the night.

Which brings me to the jackals. That's right, jandals. At about 1.30am Neetu suddenly sits up and starts flashing his light around. Turns out we had a couple of jackals circling our camp. They weren't too keen on the flashlight which was fortunate because I was so exhausted I had no interest in freaking out. Unless I was actually bitten my reserves weren't going to kick in.

The following morning dawned at 5.30am... we were dusty, tired, but got great photos. The morning cruise was peaceful BUT we witnessed several dolphins flicking in the river. Definitely not what I expected!

All in all it was totally with it. On to Varanasi!

We got to Varanasi at about midday and promptly paid extra for the luxury of air-conditioning - then it was showers for all. Seriously, the water ran brown. Soooo good.

In the evening we started to pay some attention to the surrounds. Varanasi beats Delhi for atmosphere by miles. The city has a history dating back over 5000 years. It's right on the Ganga River which features as the centre of all life. A walk along the Ghats that line the river showdown just how vibrant everything is. There are people who come from all over to bathe in the river, witness funeral pyres alight, even simply to die in Varanasi. There are religious clubs everywhere and children getting swimming lessons in the muddy water. Oh, and the boats! So quaint. And hundreds of them, just basic long boats.

We spent the evening walking around and the following day (yesterday - Saturday) were left to our own devices so it was time for some shopping! It was actually pretty fun... we got some cotton clothes suitable for the next few weeks, oh and the colours are sooo cool. I am now the proud owner of some Ali Baba trousers. Yep a true gypsy I'm turning out to be. Unfortunately Saree shopping was just too hard an overwhelming. Sorry Rhee... I just couldn't manage. Turns out there is such a thing as too many options...

We didn't survive long after 12 in the heat so it was back to the hotel where I packed up a lot of "non-essentials" and posted it home. My bag now weighs even less than when I left!

Last night we were back on the river to witness the flower ceremony. Thousands of people turn out for this everyday. And it is SO hot. I'm not sure how but as evening decended it actually got hotter. Only pictures can describe this one...

We toppled into bed at 10.30pm and no one was looking forward to another 4.30am start... but tough bikkies.

It was a 12 hour drive from Varanasi to Lumbini. Eight of us crammed into a 4wd meant any skin touching skin came away damp and sticky. And there us no rest for the wicked, the potholes made sure of that! So we crossed the Nepal border tired, dirty, and grumpy. But oh Nepal....

Within 5 minutes drive beyond the border you can see that Nepal is greener and somehow cleaner (although rubbish is still scattered on the ground) and a peace permeates the air. Our accommodation here is a bit of a step up compared to the last week but we are only here one night so I'd best enjoy it!

Tomorrow we visit the Maya Devi Temple and hear all about this birthplace of Buddha. Then on to Chitwan National Park!

So there you have it, I'm still alive and kicking (ferociously) and enthusiastic about what Nepal is going to reveal over the next 5 days.

xx Shay.

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