Kathmandu Kaleidoscope

We arrived in Nepal after a week or so in Rajasthan. Although we had enjoyed our exploits in Sariska, it was a breath of fresh air (literally!) to arrive in vibrant Kathmandu. Physically and spiritually Rajasthan and Nepal seem close but Kathmandu's clean streets, smiling faces and bustling activity were actually poles apart from the squalid gutters and sullen resignation we'd seen in India.

The flight from Delhi had been memorable, with fabulous views of the Himalayas from our window seats before dropping steeply over the sprawling mass that is Kathmandhu. We were transferred efficiently to our hotel, the Shangri La, and, after briefly checking out the lovely gardens, stepped out to explore the neighbourhood.

The hotel was located in the "diplomatic quarter" of Kathmandu close to all the embassies, the Prime Minister's residence and the grounds of the Royal Palace. We were about 2km from the city centre, but for our first outing we were happy to simply walk around the Palace grounds and local streets, looking for a suitable restaurant for dinner. We ended up in a lovely Thai Restaurant where we enjoyed superb food and excellent service ... although we were the only customers! Throughout the meal we were enchanted by the gentle music playing in the background. I asked the waiter for more information and was overwhelmed to be given the CD when we returned again the following day!

As we strolled back to the hotel we made a decision that would transform our experience: We were due to go on a group excursion to Durbar Square at 10am next day. Now to be honest, following a bellowing guide around in a flock of sheep just isn't the best way to soak up atmosphere! So we vowed to grab an early breakfast and set out to explore by ourselves....

The streets were fairly deserted as our Taxi dropped us near the entrance to Durbar Square. We were wandering along absent-mindedly, while I tried to fix our position on a tourist map, when there was a shout and two uniformed individuals started to advance on us. Having been warned that we could well be challenged by Maoists, our hearts sank. But the tension lifted when one spoke, saying "You must have Tourist Permit to walk in here", pointing to a wooden kiosk that we had inadvertently passed! With sighs of relief we paid our dues and wandered on. Things weren't quite going to plan, though, because my map-reading skills seemed to have deserted me.....

A few souls were starting to appear on the streets although it was still very early. One of them approached us and asked if we were lost. He was a market stall-holder but had very little to do: "There are few tourists these days because of the Maoist troubles. My name is Raj. If you wish I could show you around all the sights....." He seemed genuine enough but I instinctively refused his offer and we wandered off again .... straight down a blind alley! This day could turn into a disaster, so we decided to go back and find Raj. Probably one of the best decisions we have ever made!

Hooking up with Raj transformed the day. He took us round all the sights of Durbar and was able to explain the importance of all the landmarks. We watched offerings being made at various temples while he outlined the significance of the rituals. We wandered over to the laundry - a large open air space with water spouts and scrubbing benches - and examined fish, vegetable, fruit and flower stalls. I asked Raj to take me to a good place to buy a Thangka and spent some time unrolling and examining some glorious artworks before finally making my purchase. Emerging once more into the daylight we were surprised by how quiet the square was. We had expected teeming activity but there weren't even other tourists to be seen. Raj said it once buzzed with tourists and traders, but the recent Maoist attacks had put people off coming.

Durbar provided two Major highlights:

We walked into the courtyard of the Kumari Ghar, home of the Royal Living Goddess. From within the building we could hear a woman's voice and childish laughter. Raj said "I will see if the Kumari will come to the balcony to bless you". To our surprise he came back and said "We must wait ten minutes until she has finished her classes, then she will come to see you." And to our utter astonishment, a few minutes later the Living Goddess appeared at the balcony, accompanied by her governess. Unforgettable :o)

As we continued around the square we came across a wandering black bull. We watched warily as it lifted its head and began to bellow. A brass band came into sight making the bull's bellowing more insistent. "It's a wedding" said Raj, as a procession of guests followed the band and swept by to a chorus of Oompahs and bellows! As suddenly as they appeared they were gone, leaving a vacuum in the atmosphere until life slowly returned.

Well, nothing was going to cap that, so we retired to a rooftop restaurant overlooking the square for beer and chips! Down below a number of traders had set up souvenir stalls and Raj pointed and said "There's my stall, that's my wife." More chips were ordered and Raj was despatched to give them to his spouse!
When he got back we sat, happily chomping chips and drinking beer while he told us a little bit about life in Nepal. He was a genuinely pleasant and well spoken young man but we were shocked when he told us that his wife was only 14! Raj explained that in remote villages young brides were not uncommon, but in the city it was illegal to marry before reaching 16. They had come to Kathmandu from just such a small village. It seemed really shocking. but when we left the restaurant and met her she seemed much more mature than her age and quite happy with her life.

Raj was proving to be such a good companion that we asked him to join us for the rest of the day. We had two more places we were really keen to visit and he happily agreed to take us there.

First we went to the Boudhanath to see one of the biggest Buddhist Stupas in Asia. Entering the precincts through an alley we gradually became aware of music and chanting before emerging in front of the stupa.
Suddenly the term "stupendous" took on a new reality: This huge be-flagged stupa gleams white and gold in the sunlight, strings of multi-coloured flags leading up to the all-seeing eyes at the top. A steady stream of worshippers walk round in a clock-wise direction, spinning prayer wheels or prostrating themselves as they go. Around the periphery are shops selling prayer wheels, beads, candles and incense. These are interspersed with Gompas, beautiful dark wood clad temples with walls covered in Thangkas, ornate Buddha statues and portraits of the Dalai Llama. Here we saw young monks chanting and taking classes.
The place was genuinely uplifting and it was hard to walk away from its spiritual atmosphere.

Our final destination was Pashupatinath temple on the banks of the Bagmati river. This is Nepal's most important Hindu pilgrimage site, where people come to bathe in the holy waters. Cremations are performed here throughout the day on the burning Ghats. It's an uplifting ceremony compared to the dire, desperately sad Christian cremations and burials: It's an appreciation of an old life completed and the celebration of transition to a new and better life. The ghats are lined up along the river bank and are arranged in order by caste. The last of the Ghats is reserved for Royal cremations.

We arrived shortly after several military cremations which followed Maoist ambushes of army patrols. We watched as pyres were burned and ashes tipped into the river. Eventually these would flow downstream to the sacred river Ganga. On the banks families waded out into the river to make offerings. On the hillside several caves and shacks were shelters where Sadhu live and meditate. We wandered around the temple grounds and banks as the day came to an end, coming across a group of Sadhu and a small band of "Happy-clappy" European Hindus singing on the terraces. As the sun slowly set the last of the pyres was tipped into the Bagmati in a fiery shower and everyone drifted away.

Back at the hotel we bade Raj a fond farewell, putting him in a taxi back to his home, before meeting the rest of the group in the bar. As we listened to them recounting details of their guided tour we raised our glasses and gave silent thanks to Raj for a providing superb day in Kathmandu.

Tomorrow? The road to hell! 10 hours by coach to Pokhara :o(

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