High Mountains, Low Times

Across the border, visa paid for now a shared taxi to Kathmandu. I got to my meeting point for my taxi. "It can't go because there is not enough customers" says the travel agent, just as I was giving Nepal a clean slate to work with its pushed up to India levels! I have some choice words with the guy and he arranges me a taxi on my own. I'm too tired and pissed off to thank him.

The trip by car to Kathmandu takes 5-6 hours. Most of this was in complete darkness due to the Gorakapur train arriving late and taxi troubles. Was a good job i suppose as the cliffs look pretty tall and steep when the head lamps of lorries went across the countryside. I arrived in Kat around 11.15pm. My hotel was in the Thamel district, where all the cheapies are. Too knackered to have a walk around I go straight to bed and will start Nepal afresh tomorrow.

I wake up around 10.00am. 2 days travelling recovered, almost. Time for breakfast, I have to find a bank machine first. No problems finding a cafe, no Cashpoints! Oh theres one, opposite my hotel. Do'h!

I choose a German bakery for brekkie and have a pot of strong black tea and a couple of chocolate croissants. That filled a massive hole! To me it's really cold here, I'm sitting here in my fleece and whilst others are wearing shorts and t-shirts. I go exploring the Thamel area and do a bit of practical shopping: Shower Gel, Deodorant and a much required toilet roll! Every other person here is western, lots of trekking types and the odd hippy wandering about. Considering this is the most tourists I have seen for a while in one place, the Nepalese shopkeepers, rickshaw drivers and general locals just seem to be getting on with usual Kathmandu life. It took me a hour of walking around backpacker central to get asked by a tout if I wanted to go on a rafting trip, I almost said yes through shock! I go back to my hotel for a swot up on what Kathmandu and Nepal have to offer. I fell asleep after a while, my long trip was still dragging.

In the afternoon I checked out some bookshops and a few camping/trekking shops, still no hassle from anyone "HEY I'M A TOURIST!". I had a dinner on a rooftop restaurant which seemed to be the meeting place for loud Spanish people, no problem though as the Nepali San Miguel and the food went down a treat. I went on the net to check up on things back home, hate mail and another read of Nepal expert Gareth P's Email, a bit of cross referencing with a few leaflets I picked up and my LP book and I worked out my plan for the Mountain Kingdom, can't wait! I had a few more beers in the evening to celebrate being here and leaving India. Whilst getting tipsy on my first few beers for over 2 weeks I chatted to a English group who had been here for 6 months, they gave me some good tips on what to do whilst I'm here too.

I didn't even have to use my AK, today was a good day.


I got up quite late as I was not feeling too 100%, best go get some breakfast. Not much improvement, best try some medication. After a walk around I fell slightly better, so I decide to find the bike shop the English girl Chrissie told me about the previous night. The owner was a Nepalese version of Lance Armstrong called Sonam. As I was a "friend" of Chrissie. I got a discount on a top class mountain bike for 2 days. Superb!

Time to stretch my legs and explore out of Thamel. Most of Kathmandu is on strike today, don't know why but this makes quite roads (compared to India) even quieter, looks like I picked a good day. I cycle around the outskirts and then back into the centre towards Kathmandu's main attraction, Dubar square, I didn't stop to take a closer look. I will do that another time. Back to Thamel for a late lunch and buy a cycling map of the area. Once refueled back in the saddle to Swayambhunath or by its more approachable and pronounceable name Monkey Temple. It was easy to find as it sits on top of a hill. It was just the steep climb to the top made me realise that I hadn't climbed a hill this steep for a while! Once inside the complex I took a breather and admired the 360 degree view of the Kathmandu valley and the surrounding mountains. It's a great set of temples and other interesting buildings. The tourists are here but they are not of the pushy and loud Indian type.

On the way back to Thamel I stopped at a supermarket to gram some food for tomorrows cycle. Later in the evening I had a Mexican dinner, some very nice fatijas, almost as good as mine back home!

I woke up really early the next day, still not feeling too well but I want my moneys worth for the bike so I head out of town. I was planning to go right out of town and into the hills. but I really feel like shit at the moment, so I just stick to the outskirts of town and visit the Bouddhanath Stupa, Pashupatinath and the Dubar squares of Patan and Kathmandu.

I'm feeling worse and worse. Plus being by myself isn't helping, so I do a thing right out of the blue.......Catch a plane back home!! A bit of a shock to everyone!! Especially Gareth after typing out a full tour of Nepal for me I jack it in. Sorry mate, hope the Anfield DVD makes up for it!!

I will come to Nepal again and start here again one day. The place was superb and had so much to do there. It's just a shame my guts didn't think so. I will return!

EDIT: Oh and there's no photos for this one as I am not at home anymore, once again on my travels!!

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