So long, Nepal

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June 9th 2013

Published: June 9th 2013

When I first arrived in Nepal back in 2004 I was greeted at the airport by a smiley young man named Santos. Santos worked with VSN and Hotel Centrepoint to transfer volunteers and integrate them into the country. He won us over with his warm smile and good conversation and he took us for our first ever dahl bhat; rice, lentils and tarkari (curried veg), which most Nepali people eat twice a day, every day.

On Friday evening I went for my first dahl bhat of this trip, at Helena's retaurant. I sat on the roof terrace by myself and looked out over the noisy streets of Thamel. I'm not sure why-perhaps it was the golden metal plates or the fact that I was using a fork instead of my hand-but I thought back to my first dahl bhat that I had had with Santos, and wondered what had happened to him.

Saturday I went out for dinner with Olivia, a VSN volunteer. We talked about why Nepal has such a grip on my heart, and concluded it was probably because it was the first place I had travelled to, as a wary 18 year old, seeing and experiencing things which had previously only existed in books and magazines. After finishing our dinner we wandered over to Buddha Bar, a popular place in Thamel to drink and smoke shisha whilst sitting cross legged on cushions at tiny tables. At the table next to us were 2 girls and 3 Nepali men. From overhearing bits of their conversation we ascertained that the girls were probably volunteers. After an hour or so one of the Nepali men waved a hand at me and asked 'are you volunteers?'. I told him of our connection with VSN. He told me he used to know somebody that worked with VSN, Emma, the woman that set up the organisation back in 2003. The conversation became rushed and excited. I asked the man his name. He replied 'Santos'. 'Did you used to work at Hotel Centrepoint?' I asked him. As soon as the word 'yes' escaped his lips we jumped up and hugged each other. In front of me stood the first person I had met on my first trip to Nepal, 9 years earlier, the man that had shared my first nervous car journey through Kathmandu, taken me for my first taste of Nepali food and, most importantly, introduced me to the kind nature of the Nepali people.

It transpired that Santos had noticed me in the corner and thought he recognised me but was not sure because my hair is a different colour now. Santos hasn't changed much. He is still loud and happy and has a huge smile. Maybe I am still drunk from Khukri rum but I think it's such a good sign to bump into Santos again, especially after I was thinking about him the previous night. Funny things happen in Nepal. Weird things, beautiful things. I think it is especially poignant as lately I have been contemplating my place in Nepal. This is my 5th time here and whilst I love it so much, perhaps this should be my final visit. There is so much more of the world I want to see and sooner or later, Nepal is not going to be a place that I recognise for the qualities I fell in love with 9 years ago. Perhaps seeing Santos again is a sign that my love affair with this beautiful place is coming to an end. I am on the lookout for a new 'favourite place in the whole wide world'. If you have any suggestions chuck them my way.

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