Many of our trips through SE Asia have a prearranged or personal guide. We decided to try Kathmandu on our own. We found a car for our drive to our hotel, and met Raj. Raj would be our guide for the next four days. Our trip included many of the tourist things, like Thamel, the monkey temple, the flight over to Everest, Durbar Square, and the famous Rum Doodle Cafe, where we saw Sir Edmund's autograph on the wall.
But Raj turned out to be much much more. First, he took us to his favorite places. And we got to celebrate Happy Holi, the water festival with him. He also brought along his 9 year old daughter, who was a real treat for us. We bought her a T shirt, and invited her to the hotel buffet breakfast and swimming pool. He offered to take us trekking on the Annapurna Circuit on our next visit. He and his driver, Ghopal, know the city inside out. They were always on time, and found the best sites and cafes for us. He provided many of the cultural insights that are not typically provided by guide books and tourist hotels and hostals.
Raj kindly opened his home to us on the last day. Though he lives in a one room apartment without electricity or running water, his wife prepared an excellent lunch for us. It would be our last few moments in Nepal before leaving for Laos. It was a very tearful goodbye. We gave him all of our cash upon departure for his fees and his tip. We also tipped our driver, and also presented a gift and cash for his daughter, Angela. He would use the money to help build clinics, schools, and water supply for people in the outer villages. Please call on him when you reach Kathmandu or want to go trekking. Raj can be contacted at rajkapali@hotmail.com.