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We set off for our Trek in the Everest region of Nepal on Wednesday 20th May.
After meeting our guide Subba at our hotel we headed for the airport in Kathmandu and quickly checked in for our flight leaving from the domestic terminal. As we knew the plane w1as a tiny 16 seater and it was strange being on a runway designed for international airliners! The plane took off in seconds and the 35 minute fight to the mountain airstrip in Lukla was underway. There were lots of clouds for most of the journey but we sat on the left hand side of the plane and could soon see the Himalaya stretching along the northern border of Nepal in the distance. As expected we could see them for most of the journey. The landing in Lukla was not for the faint of heart. The airstrip literally comes out of nowhere as it is hidden behind a hill and is one of the shortest in the world. It is also on a steep slope to help planes land and take off! For these reasons it is considered to be the most dangerous in the world but we had no problems and
the pilot almost dropped the plane on the runway. This is unlike any other airport in the world and within 5 minutes we had collected our bags and found ourselves on the path outside. This was also the main trail all the way to Everest base camp so it was busy with other trekkers and the Sherpa people who live in the region. Our guide Subba took us to a nearby lodge for breakfast and then we were underway headed for base camp.
The trail immediately started to climb and the 11kg backpack I had was surprisingly not causing me any problems. Thankfully it wouldn’t for the whole trek and it was good to know that my fitness could stand up to this trip.
The scenery on the first day was amazing and we walked through a valley through which flowed the Dudh Kosi River which starts in from the ice melting off the Himalaya Mountains. We could have taken 100’s of pictures on the first day but we wanted to preserve the battery on the camera as there would be no chargers for the next 16 days because the Himalaya region is so remote. On this first
day we stopped at a lodge in a place called Monjo and were worn out after a hard day trekking.
The next day was a short section but involved a climb of 600 meters into a village called Namche Bazzar which is the main centre of the region and the Sherpa capital. Considering it is in the middle of nowhere Namche has lots of facilities and some western things are sold although they are expensive as everything has to be carried up from Lukla by porters.
The climb to Namche was tiring but we achieved it in good time and rested at the lodge.
The next day was an acclimatisation day in Namche to help us get used to the altitude as we were now at 3400 meters Unfortunately the early monsoon clouds came on this day and we couldn’t see much but we went up to have a look at the Everest View hotel which is a four star hotel aimed at lazy tourists who take a helicopter into the region. If the day was clear we could have had amazing views and our first of Everest but we settled for some tea on the terrace
and headed back down to Namche. Regardless of the views the extra 300 meter climb helped us with acclimatisation.
The next day we set off for a village called Tengboche at 3900 meters but again the clouds were about and we had no views. However we were able too see the famous monastery when we arrived. The clouds were really stating to become annoying now. The next day some sunlight seemed to be coming through the curtains and we opened them to find that we were staring straight at Everest and the mountains that surround it with clear blue skies. It was the best view I have ever seen in my life and having a lodge room with a view of the top of the world for £1.50 per night was definitely a good deal. We made sure we took some pictures as soon as possible as the weather can change so quickly at altitude and then had a quick breakfast before heading off on the trek. Luckily the weather held until late afternoon when the clouds cam back but I wasn’t too bothered as I had achieved a lifetime ambition in seeing Everest with my own eyes.
The next two days were spent in the remote and barren village of Pheriche at 4200 meters. Heavy rain and snow meant that we had to wait it out for a very boring two days. We met an Austrian bloke and Canadian woman who had climbed Everest and were on their way back down so it was naturally very interesting to chat to them at dinner.
We were considering heading down but thankfully the weather the next day was bright sunshine and we were able to continue heading up to the village of Loboje at 4900 meters. We got some great views on the way up but the sun is so much stronger at altitude and it was presenting us with lots of problems. The high altitude was also difficult as we had to deal with only 50% of the oxygen that is available at sea level. In the night it was very cold and the altitude was preventing me from sleeping but I Managed to get a few hours in the end.
The next day the clouds were back and we were forced to head back down. It was disappointing not to make it to base camp
but the weather in the Himalayas is so unpredictable that it was unsafe to go any higher. I wasn’t too disappointed however as I had now seen Everest and the clouds also lifted for a while back down at Tengboche so we were able to see Everest from the plateau next to the monastery which made for some great views.
So although we didn’t quite have the desired ending we had seen Everest and that was more than enough for me. We have since been having a look around Kathmandu and I hope to post my n ext blog soon fro Beijing where hopefully the in internet will be much better!
Thanks for reading and I hope to post my next blog from China soon!
Jarv
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