Annapurna Circuit - the first 7 days


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October 31st 2009
Published: October 31st 2009
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Writing you from a small internet cafe in rural Nepal....at altitude of 3500m...unbelievable where technology has found its way to!

The trek has been going sensationally well so far. I was already to go at 630 am and the guide/porter Shankar was a little late....especially as we had a 7 bus. OF course, in Nepal, this was not a problem as the bus left about 730. The one thing I had read about was not to take the local bus for the 6 hour ride from Kathmandu to Besi Sadr and even then Lonely Planet was a bit cautious on the so called tourist bus. WEll of course we were booked on the local bus....no chickens or people on top so it was just fine.

After a couple of hours we "Stopped for Peace" which I thought was a very nice gesture although not exactly sure what it involved as we were beside a river. Well as it turned out I was having a little early trouble with the Nepali accent and we were stopping for a piss!...ahahha...Live and learn!

The first day's hike was a couple of hours easy hiking in a hot sun through rice paddies. The lodge we stayed at was pretty basic but I got a single room. Dinner and breakfast and room was about $15. The price would gradually escalate as we headed up the valley...so the room rate is now a robust $2.50 per night in Manang.

The next couple of days were gradual uphill days through rice paddies in intense heat and through little villages which were Gurung villages (who look like Indians). There are alot of people making this trek and many are in groups. I had teamed up with a Swedish girl and French lawyer early 30s and the broader group was 6 Germans, and 2 Austrians as well. We kept meeting many of the same people from the bus ride.

We adoped the strategy of trying to go a little further the first few days and to stay in smaller villages to avoid the groups and our strategy was a huge success. We stayed at some great places along the way and as I am always getting a single it's great. Despite that, sleeping has been an issue but with 10 hours rest even if not many of them are alseep I've been feeling great.

The last four days has been in the higher mountains and in Tibetan towns which I have loved. It's the big vistas with snow capped mountains and deep valleys. Today is an acclimitization day so we went up to 4400m on a hike then back to 3500 metres to sleep.

I've had 2 of the most amazing trekking days I think I've ever had over the last 2 days..with gorgeous mountain views,....pine cone covered trails through pine forests and stunning vistas everywhere.

The real hike starts tomorrow when we start to head up to 4300m for a night..then 4900m..and then altitutde sickness permitting...over the 5416m pass on the next day. It's all down hill from there!

My bodily functions have been working well and I've had no issues with knees or any other body parts..I'm a bit incredulous to be honest but will gladly take it and hope it continues~!

The guide/porter Shankar has worked out very well and I am able to offload some weight despite his small backpack. He is Hindu and is very knowledgeable about the area

The daily routine has become up at 6...write diary and read about today's hike in bed....it's usually pretty cold at that time....about zero the last couple of days.....up at 630 and sitting down to breakfast at 7. Breakfast is usually black coffee and porridge. We're away most days by 730 and hike until about 4. We stop for lunch which usually takes at least an hour and a half as the little teahouses only have one fire and we all order different things. My typical lunch has been vegetable momos and garlic soup. Dinner is usually around 7 and has been the local dish dahl baht (lentils rice and veg). I've tried to be as good as possible to avoid any stomach or other issues.

I've become a abstaining vegetarian for this trip!....and we are all looking forward to the New EVerest STeakhouse in Pokihara at the end of the trek for a filet mignon, frites and some red wine!

I've got some amazing photos as you can imagine but they'll have to wait at least until I'm back in Kathmandu

Will update again when can

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31st October 2009

hello from the Gunns
Nice to wake up on a Saturday morning to hear about your adventures. I was right there on the trek with you for a few minutes! All is well in To - it's Hallowe'en tonight. Take care and have fun! Patti
1st November 2009

Well done!!!
I am looking forward to seeing yours photos. Annapurna Circuit it has to be a dream comes true. I may go next year. Feeling positive jealousy!!! Keep going and you will never walk alone!!!
1st November 2009

Top of the World.
Can't wait to see the shots John. Thanks for the play by play on the trek. Keep it coming! Dave
1st November 2009

Trip sounds amazing!!
Great way to hear about the journey. I'm going to use your "stop for peace" phrase with Mitch and see if he gets it? Travel safe and keep your blog going. Rennie
2nd November 2009

Great once in a life time adventures
Hi John, I really appreciate you sharing me and rest of your friends how you are spending you precious time exploring the world. just make sure you are taking your self very well and be careful of things and food you're not used to. very hard to be ill when you are in a strange and unfamiliar territory. Thanks and good luck and best wishes on every trip uou take. take care, Jorge

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