Enduring A Taste Of Durian

The only bizarre food that Andrew Zimmern of the Travel Channel has spit out on camera is the mighty durian. Durian is the Southeast Asia treat, known better to us westerners as the stinky fruit. It is forbidden in hotels, in so far as signs are placed in hotel lobbies and corridors banning durian from its premises. Now, it is hard to believe that Sheri loves durian, while I still have not acquired a taste for it.

They say the taste is like a cross between ripe bananas and custard. But I say it is a cross between stinky sweat socks, and rotten onions. Take your pick. Most people do go through a transition until they like it. Sheri liked it on her second try, and my Mom on her first. And it does really smell up the house. I can smell it in the garage when I get home, if Sheri has purchased a frozen one at County Square Market.

Durian, known as the "King of Fruits" in SE Asia, is from the genus Durio, belonging to the Durionaceae family. The outside of the fruit is a army green with sharp spikes. Inside is a layer of white pulp, then the "meat" is a golden yellow, with the consistency of custard. It smells even before it is cut open. Selecting a good one is considered an art. Most places in Malaysia and Laos serve durian strictly in outdoor stands or booths. We have also seen fresh durian for sale in Chinatown, and in Seattle at the Uwajimaya Super Market.

The size can range from about 12 inches long, and about 6 inches wide, weighing anywhere from 2 to 7 pounds. Some species have a red hue rather than the more common golden yellow. There are 30 recognized species. Durian trees can reach as high as 50 meters. As with most seasonal fruit, the flowering and fruiting period is once or twice a year. The edible portion or aril, is called the flesh of the fruit, and accounts for only 15 to 30% of the weight or mass of the fruit. People in Singapore are willing to pay from $50 to $75 for a good durian.

Author Richard Sterling describes the flavor as pig shit, turpentine, and onions, garnished with a gym sock. Other descriptions range form sewage, stale vomit, skunk spray, and used surgical swabs. The odor can attract animals from as far as half a mile away! A ripe durian's husk begins to crack when it is ripe. Most durian orchards have a net strung under the tree to protect the fruit as it falls.

Our first exposure was at a street side stand in Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur. I about gagged, as did Sheri. We almost spit it out on the sidewalk. Fortunately, our dear friend Angela had the foresight to buy some rambhutan for us to "cleanse" our palates. It was a rude introduction to the fruit. She and the people at the other tables were having a feast. And laughing at us!!!!

Things did not get any better for me on the second try, in Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia. Our friends Jason and Chun drove around Georgetown until they found a roadside stand. Sheri, Jason and Chun had a field day, while I was still gagging. Again, some rambhutan helped to keep me from spilling my guts on the sidewalk. The three of them are having a grand time, laughing at me, and really enjoying the moment.

It was downhill from here. Sheri discovered that County Square in Pleasant Hill sells frozen durian from Malaysia. Once thawed, she said it is as good as the durian in Malaysia. I take her word for it. She even had a durian party here for some other friends, Tom, and Sohbee who are from Kuala Lumpur. Our house stunk for days, maybe that is why we had to remodel the house.

On our last trip to Southeast Asia last March, we could not find durian in Malaysia or Bangkok. But Sheri found it at the night street markets of Luang Prabang, Laos. Naturally, she went crazy and indulged in durian for two nights. She even got our friend Mike to try it. Take my word for it, Mikee does not like everything. And she stunk (her breath)all night long in our hotel room. We also found out that durian can be found in cookies, cakes, and candy throughout Asia. Lucky us.

I can only hope that we will not find any durian in Japan next month. I think my homeland is much to civilized to eat this stinky fruit. I would place durian with lima beans, liver, chicken uteri as things I just cannot eat. I can just see Sheri buying it and trying to carry it onto the bullet train. I bought a fake durian made from plaster or paper when we were in Palm Desert. I hope this is as close as I get to it for the rest of my life.

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