Primarily Primates: Our First Days in Borneo

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"Craig, if we travel in Borneo, do you think we'll see Proboscis monkeys?" I asked repeatedly in the lead up to our trip. I really hadn't thought of much else about Borneo. The trip, as has become usual, was not really planned. All I knew while flying to Kuching was, I hope I see Proboscis Monkeys.

On the second day we hopped on a city bus with our friend Natalie to the Bako Jetty. Here we purchased our tickets to ride a speedboat through the crocodile infested waters to Bako National Park. Yes, man-eating crocodiles. The previous day, while visiting the definitely "unique" and pleasingly "free of charge" Sarawak museum, we eyed with awe a crocodile hair ball. Approximately the size of a cannon ball, this one had been removed from a dissected croc with a human jaw bone including teeth set inside the hairball. Also on display, the watch of a local man who had been eaten by a crocodile. The recovered watch was identified both by the time it stopped ticking, and by the victim's brother, as belonging to the missing man. These are the creatures that Hook has nightmares about, and no, don't drag your fingers in the water.

Anyway, tide was out as we approached Bako National Park, so the boats couldn't dock at the park jetty. We had to take off our shoes and wade in the last ten feet. The boatsmen assured us this part of the river was safe, but I can tell you we bounded to the beach quite quickly. We made arrangements to meet our boat back at 3pm and made off to register our hike. I of course chose the trail that promised the best chances of viewing the Proboscis Monkeys. Well it didn't take long. Not 30 minutes along our hike into the mangroves, the trees starting swaying, and looking up we were so fortunate as to view a family of nearly ten proboscis monkeys. Once they saw us of course, they were on the move. We watched for fifteen minutes as they lept from tree to tree. When a particularly long leap was required, they would start to swing the tree branch they were in to create momentum and then leap!

Later we learned that most visitors saw no wildlife that day other than macaque monkeys. Apparently we were extremely fortunate. Okay, so we saw Proboscis monkeys, what next?

That day, we had shared the boat with a couple from Argentina who lamented that on their trip to Semelengoh Nature Reserve where they release Orangutans, that the beasts had decided to remain hidden. We hadn't intended to visit, but found ourselves stuck in Kuching for an extra day. Probably fortunate in the end however, because it proved to be a very interesting day.

First of all, we hired a terrible driver. I am not entirely sure he knew how to drive a car, as he was on and off the gas... gas, brake, gas, brake, my neck hurt within minutes. Anyway, he was a little dangerous, but we made it back alive, so we'll ignore most of that story.

We arrived for the morning feeding at Semengoh Nature Reserve. As previously mentioned, this centre has released previously captive orangutans back into the wild. While they readapt, there are feeding times they can take advantage of. This is when visitors can view the massive primates, from a relatively safe distance.

After the initial lecture to be quiet, to not be underneath them when they are in the trees (unless we wanted a "hot shower"), to stay a safe distance away, they started calling the Orangutans by name. Now perhaps our Canadian friends don't know that Orangutan is actually a Malay word. Orang means people and Orangutan means forest people. Anyway, although their faces are quite human, it must be said the way they move is supernatural.

First in the distance you see the canopy start to quiver. You can hear the sounds of branches moving and bending. Still, if you weren't expecting something, you might think the canopy was catching a strong breeze. Then you see a tall tree begin to bend, rather bow to the orange beast in the next tree. He literally grabs the next tree and pulls it to him. When it is close enough, he carefully moves himself onto that branch and allow the tree to swing back upright moving himself closer to the available food. We watched in awe as seven giant primates moved in from all corners of the jungle. It was slow, but awe inspiring.

As they approach the feeding platform, ropes are set up so that they can move across an area cleared so we can better view them. Here you can see their agility, and non-plussed use of feet or hands interchangeably to move along the rope, whichever appendage is closer. We watched them feed for 30 minutes or so, and then, once full, slowly and deliberately, bend the forest to their will, to move them back to their day nests.

Again, we were so fortunate, and felt ourselves falling in love with Borneo. For obvious reasons, visitors are not given much access to the park, but we were able to hire a private guide, a park volunteer. As we hiked through the forest, he filled us in on the various habits of these primate he very much adores and learned that the Diane Fossey of Orangutans was actually that day in the park, to start mapping their nests! We were again fortunate to meet her, and had a lovely if not odd conversation about Southern India, our trip to Mysore and the tasty food. No we didn't discuss oranguatans, but such is life, onion dosas and Gandhi's birthday were the topics of the day, the meeting was brief and no other topics could be fit in.

Everyone should travel to Borneo.

Take Care and I have also included some pictures from around Kuching.

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