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Published: June 22nd 2007
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We've arrived in Borneo Malaysia after a short two hour flight from Manila however it took much, much longer than two hours. Mechanical problems with the plane caused a delay of six hours until our "rescue" plane arrived from somewhere in China. Oh, how I love Air Asia!
So far our first impressions of Borneo have been lovely. The food is excellent (leagues above the Philippines), the people are friendly and the landscape is lush, green and growing everywhere. We spent a few days in Kota Kinabalu while we came up with a travel action plan, did some necessities shopping and waited for an opening to climb Mt. Kinabalu - the
highest mountain (4095m) in South East Asia.
Four days later we boarded the first morning bus to Mt. Kinabalu Headquarters, just three hours away. At the evening orientation we teamed up with some Malaysians and French girls to share the guide costs and decided on taking an alternate route up the first portion of the climb. The Mesilau trail is 1.5km longer and slightly more difficult (due to ups and downs) than the main trail but it was worth the extra effort.
The morning we set
out from park headquarters the sky was a magnificent blue and the sheer granite summit was looming before us. We started out with the group but somehow ended up at the front and then we were hiking alone. It's a well enough trodden trail, getting lost is close to impossible, and being off on our own with only the sound of the wind in the trees and water running down the gullies was perfect. Passing over the ridge was exciting as a warm and cold wind collided at the top and whisps of cloud from either side met at the crest and swirled around each other before fusing into one. Along the way we passed waterfalls and streams of cool, fresh water. The damp jungle turned into windblown scrub draped in witch's hair moss. After five kilometers the Mesilau trail hooked up with the main vein and we were no longer alone in the wilderness. With many others we climbed, step after step after step until we arrived at the rest houses mid-afternoon.
After dinner we bundled up under the blankets in our cramped dorm room and got a few hours of well needed rest. At 3:00am we woke,
powered up with instant 3-n-1 coffee, grabbed our headlamps and headed out in the dark to make it to the summit for sunrise. Jarrod, I and one Malay man out of our original group of seven headed for the top. The others were too unfit, injured or suffering from altitude sickness to make the journey. We started out strong, passing the throngs of Asian tourists decked out in expensive hiking boots, rain jackets and walking poles. Once we passed everyone we slowed our pace while we followed a white rope laid across smooth rock leading us through the darkness. Looking behind us a trail of headlamps like marching ants marked the path and in the distance, over a hundred kilometers away the city lights of Kota Kinabalu glowed a soft orange hue. At 5am, still dark, it started to rain and our guide had the nerve to suggest that we turn around and not wait for sunrise! I've just hiked for how many hours to get here? - I can wait a half hour in the rain for the sun to come up damn it! We waited out the rain and sure enough a half hour later just as the
sun was lighting the sky the rain stopped.
Standing on the rocky Low's Peak (4095m) sunrise was lovely, with colour squeezing out of a slit in the clouds. But more spectacular was the beauty of the sheer granite mountain peaks that sliently reveled themselves under the soft morning sun. Seven other distinct peaks (St. John's Peak 4091m, Alexandra's Peak 4003m, Ugly Sister Peak 4032m, King Edward Peak, Donkey Ears Peak 4054m, South Peak 3933m and Tunku Abdul Rahrnan) surrounded you with a river of smooth granite running north-south between them. As the sun rose a perfectly triangular shadow formed to the west, the shadow of Low's Peak. And, after the rain a rainbow appeared and added paint strokes of colour to the sky.
Heading down the granite rock face seeing the beauty of what we had passed in the darkness was our favorite part of the entire hike. The last two kilometers on the granite is truly one of the most beautiful sights we've seen in our 11 months of travel. With the edge of the dark rock making way to green jungle and then blue ocean it really is stunning. You could see 360 degrees for miles
and miles.
Back at the rest house we refueled on instant noodles (which was also dinner the night before) and started the long hike down. But every painful step was well worth it!
Next Stop: Sipadan Island for some world-class diving! ******A special HELLO to Shi Shi in Thunder Bay now that we've landed in her stomping grounds!******* Travelers Tips:
You can hike the mountain as a part of a package tour or independently. Packages start at about 400RM and up per person. We did it independently for about 225RM each. You need to book accommodation up on the mountain in advance (lack of accommodation is what restricts the number of hikers) which can be done at the office in Kota Kinabalu. The local bus runs daily just past the entrance of the Park and they can drop you off there. We also brought all our own food, mostly trail mix and instant noodles as food is a bit pricey up the mountain (30RM for buffet dinner). If you're contemplating going - JUST DO IT!
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Anna
non-member comment
I'm so glad you did a hike. I don't know why, but I think it is such a satisfying way to experience the country you are in. That is very cool that you guys made it to the top when most of your team bailed.